XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Headlight Separation

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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 02:04 PM
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Stu 1986's Avatar
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Default Headlight Separation

Hello Fellas, I've found something else to fiddle with on my XJ .

Basically I'd like to know if there is a safe way in which I could remove the headlight glass from the housing. I'd like to do this because inside of the headlights there is a film of muck on the glass, which looks awful when I have my side lights on, and is visible with the lights off. I'd also like to do the fog lights if possible, as they seem to have a similar issue.

When or if I have the glass off, my friend who is a jeweller has promised he'll polish them inside and out using his special equipment and materials, so hopefully I'll have headlights that look like diamonds!

Thanks For Your Help! Stu.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 02:24 PM
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Hi Stu

Sorry mate, not sure how to do what you are asking.... I'll watch this post to see if anyone else can help you and how you get on. One thing I would suggest though is replace your sidelight bulbs (which are very yellowy and look like your 1974 Ford Cortina used to) and buy LEDs instead. I bought mine from this website... http://www.superbrightleds.com/mini-wedge.html

I also replaced by rear license plate bulbs with some LEDs too which makes it look a lot smarter (kind of like the new Lexus GS300)

All of the LEDs I bought had built in resistors, so they bulb warning system on the car still works correctly

Have fun!
 
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 08:58 PM
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You'll find procedures on Jag lovers.
Essentially remove grille and headlight surrounds.
Some then remove the headlights in their mounting bracket. I found it easier to pull them off. Not difficult!
I used Auto glass cleaner to swirl around the lights. Not too harsh as the reflector is delicate.
The parking light now looks dim against the Philips NightGuide headlight bulbs.
I will replace them with LEDs Cat # wled-whp5 from Superbrightleds.com
 
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 10:25 PM
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Your "superbrightleds.com" website specifically says: "LED bulbs are generally NOT AS BRIGHT as standard incandescent bulbs,..."
So , why on earth spend the money and aggravation to change, as their website also says "LED brake/tail lamps WILL NOT FLASH with thermal flasher units due to their extremely low current draw. Also, with stock flasher units, the turn signals may flash faster than normal (Hyper-Flash). These installations will require an electronic flasher unit, available in our car bulb shopping category (for some vehicles)..."
I don't understand the motivation to spend money to make a great leap backwards......
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Last edited by Markus; May 14, 2011 at 07:52 AM.
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 06:06 AM
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Thanks for the tip, I'll try and take a look at doing that but will have to be quite careful I don't break any sensitive parts!

As for the LED's I did have a pair of LED side/parking lights fitted to mine, but I switched them back to normal bulbs because I didn't like the way they lit up the lens nor did I like the way they'd stay lit for ten mins after running the vehicle's electrics. This is because of CAN energy in the resistor's in the LED's but all I had was a constant flow of work mates and neighbors informing me I'd left my lights on! Though I may take SARC's advice on LED plate lights because they look good on modern vehicles.

How do I join JAG LOVERS? I can't seem to find a way or am I just being daft? Thanks again, S.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 09:00 AM
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"....How do I join JAG LOVERS? I can't seem to find a way ..."
Go to www.jag-lovers.org then click the little brown "logon" icon up on the banner. Then scroll down and click "Registration."
You take it from there!
Cheers - :-)
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Last edited by Markus; May 14, 2011 at 07:52 AM.
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 09:24 PM
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Re. the LEDs, I want them to match the headlights not give some blueish glare. The LEDs I mentioned have a 360 degree spread of light (equivalent to the incandescent bulb and compatible with reflector) and a color temperature close to that of incandescent bulbs. (supplier website). Their luminosity is twice that of the regular bulbs.
The parking lights on the XJ8 are not covered by a bulb monitoring system.
d-pak's excellent post at http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index....blog&blogid=32 has an exhaustive review of the LEDs vs. bulbs and the results in both pics and technical data.
 

Last edited by Dan R; Nov 15, 2009 at 11:55 PM.
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 03:27 PM
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What I actually want to do is remove the glass from the body of the light unit, so I can clean inside. I have since discovered that the glass is fixed to the body with Epoxy, thanks to BRUTAL's kind help.

Does anyone know a way to get through the Epoxy without damaging anything?

I need to do this at some point, because there is a lot of grime inside my lenses, and I may be forced to buy replacements if I can't separate them. I have a 2001 XJ with the Crystal lenses on. Thanks, S.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 05:06 PM
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cant you get into it from the back ?
maybe remove the bulbholder and do keyhole surgery ????

if not , a dremel will get through the epoxy
 
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 05:24 PM
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Stu, what you need to do is to remove the headlight assemblies from the car. Now, put the headlight assemblies on a cookie sheet with the clear part pointed up. Suspend the headlight assembly above the cookie sheet by whatever means possible (I tend to use soda cans cut in half). Now, heat up the oven to 250F. Put the headlight assembly on the cookie sheet in the oven for 10 minutes. Remove and using a pry tool (or two), insert the pry tool between the glass and the colored backing. Slowly pull the two halves apart. You will most likely need to heat up the headlight assembly multiple times to get the clear glass 100% free of the backing. I normally do a final heating to pull out as much of the epoxy as I can so later it will be easier to reinstall the glass.

Now, please keep in mind that 250F is a very vital temperature. You get too much warmer and the plastic will start to turn into warm taffy and it will start bending in places that you don't want it to. Up at 300F, it can not maintain its shape and will bend under gravity. So, just a warning.

To re-install, go to the auto parts store and they sell headlight sealant. That is the same epoxy they used to initially put the headlight together with.

If you have any more questions, just ask. If in doubt on the temperature, start out lower and work your way up. Also, don't let the clear portion touch the cookie sheet, it has a tendency to put a white spot on the clear which won't come off. TRUST ME!!!!!!
 
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 06:27 PM
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I would try getting in the back, but the problem is the decrotive chrome blades inside the housing, they prevent that way. I will try Thermo's oven idea, though not during the cooking of the sunday roast! :P I do have one question regarding the oven way, the heat isn't going to damage the chrome reflectors is it? I'm told this chrome is very delicate. Also, would the same method work for the fog lights? Thanks for your help chaps, S.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 09:04 PM
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I took a headlight assembly apart to clean the condensation spots. The lens was no problem but the silvered reflector surface just wiped off . . . completely off. Fortunately, I saw what was happening and stopped before I made a complete mess of the assembly.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 09:53 PM
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Stu, I haven't done this with jaguar lenses, but I have done it with numerous aftermarket ones and haven't had any issues. Worst case, start with only one headlight housing and go from there.

Also, be gentle with the headlight housing. IT is possible to break the plastic and whatnot. So, keep an eye on the plastic and start on the bottom edge so you can see what you can and can not do. That way if you mess something up, the odds of being able to fix it and no one else will see it will be higher.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 12:11 PM
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I had a lens with a crack in it that filled with water and left horrible dirt and spots.

I repaired the lens first, then I used the cleaning from the back method. I inserted a hose into the assembly and flushed with glass cleaner until it appeared as clean as possible. I used suction & air on the same hose and blew out the liquid. Did this a few times and ended up with a crystal looking light again. No rubbing necessary, so the chrome was not affected, and never even removed the assembly.
 
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