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Sounds like a valve problem to me as well. I will buy a borscope. I like the car a lot. For 170k miles, the interior and exterior are very clean. Kind of want to sell the Sport, and use that money to fix the R1. But I've never driven the R1. So I don't know the health of the trans or diff.
Dumb question. At how many miles do these bottom ends say bye? I know it depends on driving habits, maintenance and so on. But generally speaking, around how many miles?
Dumb question. At how many miles do these bottom ends say bye? I know it depends on driving habits, maintenance and so on. But generally speaking, around how many miles?
It can be anywhere between (say) 50k and 500k miles. The crank bearings, most of the time, glide on a film of oil so the wear is minute, practically zero. Some wear can occur at cold starts but, with modern oils, even the cold start wear is mostly eliminated. The main crank bearing "killer" is loss of oil pressure, even if very short. Another potential "killer" could be serious engine overheating when just an average quality mineral oil is used as, I think, at too high temperatures mineral oils do not hold their film strength as well as fully synthetic oils. For a supercharged engine, I wouldn't use anything else but top quality fully synthetic oil.
Jaguar specified a semi synth oil for the R units (Shell Helix HX7). I doubt the need for bottom end bearings - it sounds like a pronounced knocking. More likely is an overheat event and dropped valve seat?
Have you rotated the engine clockwise on the crank damper nut to see if the cam flats line up with a straight edge?
I'd remove the cam cover and inspect the zero cylinder's valves at this point, you're looking to see if the valves close fully, if they're being held it's a head off and replace the head or seat(s) and valve(s).
Interesting to hear of a gudgeon pin making a noise. The only time I've heard of a crank bearing issues is oil loss - having low volume, high circulation, it can be a fast thing to happen if there's a major oil leak. Have you seen any leaks at all on the engine, and has the mayo stuff evaporated out of the system?
I'd suggest not running it any further until the dead cylinder is diagnosed.
The codes
p332 knock sensor bank 2 - sets timing to fully retarded 3000rpm limit - ks dead, bad contact or earth.
p445 evap circuit - band wiring/earth - (no signal)
p1108 - no idea
p1122 - throttle pedal position sensor fault - this can/will put the car into limp mode, half the cylinders fire and limits drive to a crawl.
p0174 - lean bank 2 - can be a number of things, a major air leak, low fuel pressure, fuel pressure regulator failure, O2 sensor fault, etc.
Of these codes, the throttle and knock sensors can really mess with trying to get the car running correctly to diagnose. There's obviously some more wires to check, firstly the knock sensors and throttle body harnesses. Also check all connections on the induction for splits, leaks, the usual ones are at the maf and the gaskets above and below the throttlebody itself.
Then clear the codes and see what comes back.
It can be anywhere between (say) 50k and 500k miles. The crank bearings, most of the time, glide on a film of oil so the wear is minute, practically zero. Some wear can occur at cold starts but, with modern oils, even the cold start wear is mostly eliminated. The main crank bearing "killer" is loss of oil pressure, even if very short. Another potential "killer" could be serious engine overheating when just an average quality mineral oil is used as, I think, at too high temperatures mineral oils do not hold their film strength as well as fully synthetic oils. For a supercharged engine, I wouldn't use anything else but top quality fully synthetic oil.
I hope the bearings are ok. Sadly, I don't think there is a way of knowing whether they are good bad. At least without having to take the engine apart.
Jaguar specified a semi synth oil for the R units (Shell Helix HX7). I doubt the need for bottom end bearings - it sounds like a pronounced knocking. More likely is an overheat event and dropped valve seat?
Have you rotated the engine clockwise on the crank damper nut to see if the cam flats line up with a straight edge?
I'd remove the cam cover and inspect the zero cylinder's valves at this point, you're looking to see if the valves close fully, if they're being held it's a head off and replace the head or seat(s) and valve(s).
Interesting to hear of a gudgeon pin making a noise. The only time I've heard of a crank bearing issues is oil loss - having low volume, high circulation, it can be a fast thing to happen if there's a major oil leak. Have you seen any leaks at all on the engine, and has the mayo stuff evaporated out of the system?
I'd suggest not running it any further until the dead cylinder is diagnosed.
The codes
p332 knock sensor bank 2 - sets timing to fully retarded 3000rpm limit - ks dead, bad contact or earth.
p445 evap circuit - band wiring/earth - (no signal)
p1108 - no idea
p1122 - throttle pedal position sensor fault - this can/will put the car into limp mode, half the cylinders fire and limits drive to a crawl.
p0174 - lean bank 2 - can be a number of things, a major air leak, low fuel pressure, fuel pressure regulator failure, O2 sensor fault, etc.
Of these codes, the throttle and knock sensors can really mess with trying to get the car running correctly to diagnose. There's obviously some more wires to check, firstly the knock sensors and throttle body harnesses. Also check all connections on the induction for splits, leaks, the usual ones are at the maf and the gaskets above and below the throttlebody itself.
Then clear the codes and see what comes back.
Would a valve problem cause that knocking sound?
I have not checked if the cam flats line up with a straight edge. I will get to that on the weekend, or Monday the latest.
The car leaks no oil, and I looked several times. Car has been sitting in the same spot for 12 days, and not a drop on the ground. It does have bad valve cover gaskets for sure.
I'll have to look if the mayo stuff is gone.
The throttle position code doesn't suprise me. That is where the mice chewed, right behind the connector to the PPS. I did a mock up test on the PPS sensor. Colors matched, and tied the wires together. Need to check if still throws the PPS code. There is one obvious wiring to a sensor that I need to fix. I'll post a pic shortly.
I apologize for all the questions. But if I were to fix the valve problem, would I need to buy new chains, tensioners and guides? Just trying to get as much as info as I can, before I make a decision.
As yours is an 03 it will have the later type tensioners/chains/guides, so they should not need to be replaced due to the common cracking problems of the earlier type.
As yours is an 03 it will have the later type tensioners/chains/guides, so they should not need to be replaced due to the common cracking problems of the earlier type.
I figured, but you can never be too sure these days! Thank you
If you intend to repair the cylinder head(s), install new primary and secondary timing chains, guides and tensioners since they will be off the engine anyway.
If you intend to repair the cylinder head(s), install new primary and secondary timing chains, guides and tensioners since they will be off the engine anyway.
By rotating clockwise on the crank pulley bolt, that would be setting my ratchet to tighten, correct?
Cam timing looks fine. Flat with no gaps, on either side. I checked the chain tension, on the Morse chain, passenger side. For some reason, it had more slack in it. This was when the cam flats were lined up. I was like wtf. So I turned the engine, and it went back to it's normal(tight) tension. Is that normal?
It is possible that while the valves are visibly opening and closing, they (or one of them) may not be fully seating, therefore allowing gasses to escape. You could check the valve clearances of those valves at TDC, if the clearances are excessive it may be that the valve(s) are not fully closing due to a possible bent valve stem, or simply a sticking valve.
The only other thing I can think of is a hole burned in the piston, possible, but unlikely.
It is possible that while the valves are visibly opening and closing, they (or one of them) may not be fully seating, therefore allowing gasses to escape. You could check the valve clearances of those valves at TDC, if the clearances are excessive it may be that the valve(s) are not fully closing due to a possible bent valve stem, or simply a sticking valve.
The only other thing I can think of is a hole burned in the piston, possible, but unlikely.
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I'm going to buy a borescope today. And have a look down in that piston. I'll post whatever I see here. I'm use to small block chevy's. So if the question is dumb, sorry
On an SBC, the cylinder are numbered 1, 3, 5, 7 for the left bank. And right bank are 2, 4, 6, 8. Is it the same for the AJ26/27?
It is possible that while the valves are visibly opening and closing, they (or one of them) may not be fully seating, therefore allowing gasses to escape. You could check the valve clearances of those valves at TDC, if the clearances are excessive it may be that the valve(s) are not fully closing due to a possible bent valve stem, or simply a sticking valve.
The only other thing I can think of is a hole burned in the piston, possible, but unlikely.
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+1.
Check the valve clearance on the zero compressor cylinder. It possible the car overheated and dropped a valve seat. Listening to the video it sounds similar to my XJR with dropped valve seats. You also mentioned there was no water in the resovior.
See my reply above your's.
