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Help bring my XJR R1 back to life? Pics

  #21  
Old 12-21-2018, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Z07Brandon View Post
Lol! Did a lot of thinking yesterday, and research. I don't think electricity cares what color the wires are. I highly doubt the the functions for each wire changed for 01-03 on xjr's.
Yeh, I thought that once, Jaguar have been using the same wiring colour codes for over 50 years!

Simply solder an extension of the same colour and shrink sleeve it. In some cases like the MAF it could do with a couple more inches from the loom anyway. The picture looks like the MAP sensor and they differed in the last year I think. Does it have the exact same connector?

You got a total bargain, a set of cam cover gaskets and a couple of hours with the soldering iron, and maybe an oil change should see this good. Your other car will be sold, once you've experienced living with an R!
 
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  #22  
Old 12-21-2018, 02:38 PM
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Yes the connectors are exact. Even down to the numbers on them. I'll get a pic shortly.
 
  #23  
Old 12-22-2018, 07:20 PM
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My dad and I got the car to stay running. Doesn't sound nice. I know 03s came with the updated chain and tensioners from the factory. I was under the impression metal tensioners don't go bad? That is of course, if that is what is causing that engine noise. Car 170k miles. Tomorrow, I'll remove both cam covers and have a look.
 
  #24  
Old 12-22-2018, 07:27 PM
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I had an AJ28 that sounded like that and the cause ended up being a worn gudgeon pin.

Have you tested the compression?
 
  #25  
Old 12-22-2018, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by NBCat View Post
I had an AJ28 that sounded like that and the cause ended up being a worn gudgeon pin.

Have you tested the compression?
I have not. But I can and will do that tomorrow. I will only be able to do a cold engine test since it runs so bad.
 
  #26  
Old 12-22-2018, 07:34 PM
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codes that came up. The lean codes could be due to me not putting the intake back on correctly. Where it attaches to wheel arch.
 
  #27  
Old 12-22-2018, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Z07Brandon View Post

can someone get me a pic from there xjr, in that spot? I ask because that pigtail has 3 wires coming from it. But the harness right under it has 4 wires in the loom.
My 1999 Super V8 does not have the thing to which the black 3-wire connector connects on your car but I found another picture which appears to be the same as what you have. Look for another loom with 3 wires. The 4-wire loom that you are looking at might be for the wiper motor - see the connection to it at the extreme right of the attached picture.

 
  #28  
Old 12-22-2018, 09:35 PM
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Forgot to update on that 4 wire loom. It was actually only 3 wires in the loom. Thank you
 
  #29  
Old 12-23-2018, 11:46 AM
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I have pulled the left side cam cover. The video is currently uploading. Dumb question, if I run a compression test, would that not risk hurting the timing?
 
  #30  
Old 12-23-2018, 12:40 PM
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The plastic part of the tensioner, I can wiggle it with my finger. Is that bad? I'll get it on video as well.
 
  #31  
Old 12-23-2018, 03:27 PM
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  #32  
Old 12-23-2018, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Z07Brandon View Post
https://youtu.be/NlnaSPAKxok

The plastic part of the tensioner, I can wiggle it with my finger. Is that bad? .

The chain tension on both primary and secondary tensioners is fine.

Great that you have the later design tensioners and Morse chain.

The cam lobes are "shiny" because that is the part of the cam that is in contact with the valves during opening/closing, the "dull" side is when the valves are closed and there is no contact. Perfectly normal.

.

 
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  #33  
Old 12-23-2018, 04:01 PM
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Awesome, I learned something new today about the shiny vs non shiny cam lobes. Thank you sir. So, I assume the next step is to do a compression test? Since the timing parts are fine, it's safe to do the compression test?

If so, I have some questions about doing the compression test. How many cranks per cylinder? Will this not kill the battery? It is new, but I wonder about it draining it. Is there any fuses I need to disconnect before doing the compression test?
 
  #34  
Old 12-23-2018, 04:46 PM
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To do a compression test completely assemble the engine, (you do not want oil from the valve gear flying everywhere), and just remove the top inspection covers to remove all of the spark plugs, this will make turning the motor over extremely easy for the starter motor/battery as the only resistance will be the one cylinder you have the compression plug in.

Insert the compression rod with rubber plug on the end into the spark plug hole, and hold there firmly. Have someone sit in the car and turn the starter motor for about 5 or 6 seconds, this should give you an accurate, steady reading. They always say that consistency is the most important thing, that all cylinders return a similar pressure reading, but you should get readings of around 150psi on each cylinder.


.
 
  #35  
Old 12-23-2018, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Z07Brandon View Post
I have pulled the left side cam cover. The video is currently uploading. Dumb question, if I run a compression test, would that not risk hurting the timing?
Did you not already attempt to start the engine? If the valves were going to hit the pistons, they would have already.
 
  #36  
Old 12-23-2018, 05:04 PM
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Prior to attempting to test the compression, remove the fuel pump relay so fuel isn't being injected into each cylinder. Use a threaded compression tester and place shop rags or a towel over the spark plug holes if the spark plugs have been removed.

Connect a charger to the battery and spin the engine for three seconds for each cylinder.
 
  #37  
Old 12-23-2018, 05:11 PM
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It's difficult to tell from the photos, but it appears the cam timing is off on Bank 2.

If the spark plugs are removed, use a 24mm socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt to rotate the crankshaft manually in a clock direction when viewed from the front of the engine. Do not rotate the engine in an anti-clock direction or damage to the main and rod bearings is the result.

Rotate the engine until the flat areas near the front of both cams on each head are facing up. If they are not both facing up together, the exhaust cam is incorrectly timed.
 
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  #38  
Old 12-24-2018, 03:25 PM
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Thanks for all the help guys! Merry Christmas to all.

6 of the cylinders were between 125-140 psi. With one reading 150 psi, and the video showing 0 compression.
 

Last edited by Z07Brandon; 12-24-2018 at 03:46 PM.
  #39  
Old 12-24-2018, 04:46 PM
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Most likely bent exhaust valves.
 
  #40  
Old 12-24-2018, 04:47 PM
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Wow, not even a flicker!

I guess that head needs to come off.
 

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