I was cleaning my 01 xjr and decided (despite knowing better!) to powerwash the engine. IT was running at the time to make matters worse. I thought i was careful but now i have amber engine management light on and RESTRICTED PERFORMANCE message on the dash. I have dried off the engine, disconnected battery, removed coilpack covers, dried maf and dried moisture away but light remains.the car is starting and running as normal and there is no difference in power. IT did once display ENGINE STALL message then cut out initially but that has not reoccurred. IS this the start of a world of problems for me? Prior to washing the engine the car was always faultless. Please advise.

 

oops...!

In all likelyhood, its an electrical connection problem. I would probably start disconnecting the obvious electrical connectors that were sprayed, dry them, spray with a light oil or WD40, and reconnect.

Option 2, plug in an OBD2 reader and see what the code reads. That may get you right to the system, and thereby the connector, that is at fault.

In the "olden" days, the issue would likely fix itself as the connections dried out. Now days all the connectors are sealed, so they won't dry out on their own.

 

Yes im trying to get hold of a reader to pinpoint the fault, such a stupid mistake to make in the first place. Thanks for your reply.

 

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It is a pretty reliable way of causing problems.
Just pray you haven't done for the knock sensors.
I've moved you to the X308 section.

 

I wash my engines (every vehicle I own, not just the two Jags), once a year at least. I never had a problem. I don't use "power washing" wand often (did for many years while I owned two car wash locations) any more. I do it with a simple garden hose.

When I was using the power washing wand, I would keep the wand on low pressure, and away from the engine.

My procedure: I warm up the engine (not HOT, just warm). I take the air intake (with filter, and MAF) off, and cover the TB (or the carb) with a plastic bag, secured with a rubber band. I spray two or three cans of a good engine degreaser, and let it sit for about 10 min. I hook up a garden hose to the washing machine hot water fawcett, and rinse off with low pressure, staying away from fuse boxes, which I clean later by hand. I wipe everything I can reach with rags, and let it drip dry for a while. After that I spray WD40 EVERYWHERE, and wipe all reachable parts with rags, and start the engine with a hood open. I let the engine warm up, and evaporate water, and WD40. Once the engine stops "steaming", I take the car for a ride (and get the engine HOT). After it cools down, I wipe everything down again with oily (WD40) rags (but no spraying any more).

This has worked for me for years, with no ill effects, and I do it on bikes, trucks, Jags, Benz, Cessna, and everything else, including tractors, and lawn equipment.

 

It may be worth letting the engine idle continuously for a long time-perhaps up to an hour. This is to heat up the whole of the underbonnet area as well as the engine.

I don't think anything would have been damaged & it's probably just residual moisture somewhere, so you need to let the engine & whole engine bay/underbonnet area get really hot to drive off all the moisture.

Properly sealed electrical connectors won't have let any water in, so they probably won't need drying out. Any connectors that have let water in through leaks can be dried by disconnecting & then dabbing with pieces of toilet tissue to soak up the bulk of the water-then reconnected & dried out by letting the engine get properly hot under the bonnet.

To maximise the 'heat soak' under the bonnet, just let it idle for a long time & don't drive it on the road as this will ram cold air into the engine bay-this is the only time when you actually want the maximum amount of underbonnet heat

 

Yes i am hoping no long term or serious damage is done, i presume the fault will remain in the memory and lights will stay on until i clear it with fault reader even after it dries out. I should have it sorted one way or tomorrow evening as i have obd arranged.

 

Don't feel bad, I did the same thing minus the power washer. I hosed down the engine and up popped a bunch of problems. First car I every had problems with after washing the engine. I let it dry out for a couple days and everything was back to normal.

 

OBDII is your friend. I replaced the transmission in my car and STILL showed a fault.
Once I checked and cleared the fault I was good to go. Check the Forum for one
that can do Jaguar Specific items. It will pay for itself. I think you will be ok.

 

Obd gives following codes. P0332 knock sensor 2 circuit low input bank 2
P1642 ???
P1797 ???
P1000 p manufacturer controlled dtc
P1797 p ???

Could not clear any faults or codes however restricted power warning is now intermittent?
Any views on what is on the cards now. And what are the 1642 and 1797/ 1797p codes pertaining to?

 

P1000 is okay, just means internal tests not completed since reset. It will become P1111 after a few drive cycles.

P1642 & 1797 are indication of short or open in the CAN BUS circuits. I had this issue in the past and found it due to poor connections. Unplugging the connectors to the throttle body and cleaning them is a start, but many other components are in the CAN BUS, and could cause the codes.

 

Thanks for the replies, im going to leave it dry out for a week or so and unplug as many connections as i can to clean them and hope for the best. A word of warning to all though, water near engines and electrics has left me a perfect car rendered useless. Thanks again for all the advice and encouragement.

 

You can speed up the drying process by letting the engine idle for an extended period to really heat up the whole engine bay through heat soak. Nothing drives off moisture like heat does

 

I remember pressure washing my RR's engine really good after getting it full of silty dust off-road. After I was done, I saw steam and heard sizzling coming from the fuse box. I promptly removed the battery and let it sit facing the sun with the hood open. It was fine after a few hours.

I would park in a warm place (if possible) and disconnect the battery for a few days.

 

P0332 means you may have ruined one of your knock sensors. They are easy enough to replace "unless" you have a supercharged engine, which you do. I'm pretty sure 0332 is the right side one.

P1642 can sometimes be a "phantom" code caused by having an inexpensive OBD reader plugged in with the engine running.

P1797 can also be a "phantom"code.

Knock sensors usually go bad due to a coolant leak, the condition you replicated by washing the engine. They are cheap enough, about $28 on the 'bay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/150991576244...84.m1423.l2649.

I would at least plug a new knock sensor into the harness and try to clear the codes again. Do not run the engine or drive the car with the OBD reader connected, only read it with the engine stopped but the key in the "run" position.

Here's my thread: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...s-codes-91090/
and another: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ir-bill-90891/

I "relocated" my knock sensor, allowing me to replace it without removing the supercharger.
Vector

 

Is it bad to drive the car while using Bluetooth adapter & torque, etc.?

 

I don't think so, but I just got my Bluetooth OBD rig in the mail today. I'll let you know how it works out.

I got it due to problems with a Actron Pocket Scan 9125 throwing "phantom" codes.
Vector

 

Ahh this brings back memories if me cleaning my engine bay.

You ruined the knock sensors.

Buy all the gaskets from the supercharger up now, update the duct seals to the intercooler and also clean out the intercoolers while you're at it. install new spark plugs... ect...

You'll want to do the tensioners depending on year of the car as well. You'll have the valve covers off... if you're really OCD you can weigh your options on upgrading the supercharger to the later years as well.

Or.. just pay someone to do it all haha.

You can check out my build thread on here for a few pictures of the process.

 

+1 to XJR Prototype, if you have to remove the supercharger, also replace the two heater hoses, and the small breather pipe which run underneath.