Well today i started up my 1998 Jag XJ8 and as it was idling i was looking at the engine and heard this noise,

It sounded like someone dropped a bolt in the timing cover, but it only lasted for a split second, then all was quiet again.
then i played with the throttle a little and i heard it really fast again like a quick flap...

i heard a lot about the secondary tensioners going bad and im almost 100% positive they have never been changed and the car has 123,000 miles on it.
does this mean i have to change all 4 chains and tesnioners all together?
or can i just get away with the secondary ones for now?
thanks guys!

More work to look forward to after i over haul the transmission...
I'm just very afraid to drive it at all until i fix this issue, i would hate to destroy the engine right after i rebuild the transmission..

 

this definatly sounds like top tensioner woes.....

Removal of the rocker covers to check is the best way to find out

Probably worth buying the kit, (chain etc) saves doing the job twice!

worth checking out the numerous threads & how to's
specialist tools needed etc.

 

You must inspect the tensioners immediately.
As Rob says - read the many threads.
Basically if the tensioners haven't damaged the chains you can just replace them.

 

Is this noise continous or at regular intervals?
Don't confuse a tensioner noise witht he normal sound of the Variable valve timing units fitted to N/A engines.
This will give a periodic 'clack' sound at idle about every couple of minutes where the solenoid operates to allow oil into the VVT galleries.
As soon as you rev it, it will clack again as the solenoid opens the valve.
The tensioner sound will usually be heard at first start up when engine is cold or has been sitting a while and if the plastic tensioner body has started to crack it will bleed away oil and takes a little time to 'pump up' again after a start up.
This si more of a continuous rattling for the time it takes to pump up the tensioner then goes into more of the normal whining rustle that these engines always exhibit until warmed up.

OK, which is yours??

 

Since it's a 98, WHATEVER the noise is,....OPEN IT! Don't start the engine any more, open the covers, ZIP tie the chains to the sprockets, and yank the plastic out of there. Sure there are different noises associated with a cold engine, but why risking it, while you try to figure out what makes what kind of noise?

 

Due to the fact that it's a 1998 model & has maybe 123,000 miles on the original plastic tensioners-it's in the 'very high risk group' for possible top tensioner problems-even if the fault turns out to be something else.

Due to the potential damage that can be caused if the top tensioners do fail, I'd get those cam covers off ASAP & check the top tensioners & top chains. It's not a difficult job-although you might have 'fun' with the clamp that secures the dipstick tube to the cam cover bolt top on that side of the engine...

For the moment-and assuming there's no wear or damage to the top chains because of possible tensioner failure-you can change the top tensioners using the zip-tie method, which can be found on this forum.

However, if your top chains are also worn because of secondary tensioner damage, then you'll need to do the longer method with the special tools to get the cam sprockets off and change the top chains as well as the tensioners.

The top chains are a priority task though-if you suspect them, sort it out immediately as failure there will probably cause engine damage. The lower tensioners & primary chains don't usually fail in the same catastrophic manner as the top tensioners, so they could wait until a later date.

Either way-get those cam covers off pronto

 

+2 to immediate inspection before next startup

 

Open cam covers- replace tensioners if they are not metal
Open cam covers- replace tensioners if they are not metal
Open cam covers- replace tensioners if they are not metal

 

I agree. I had 192K on my original ones on my 98xj8. Previous owner just drove it until someting stopped it...in this case fuel pump and thats how I picked it up. I was hearing this so we did zip tie method and they were cracked and the plastsic shoes were gone...luckily we did this in time and my chains and all are fine. I still have a clacking VVT unit that will quieten as soon as i rev to 1500 i hear the whoosh and it operates the VVT...but you have to open that up to make sure and why not do it anyway to replace them if you have 123k you know they've never been done. Do that before you even do the transmission. Cost is like 150 bucks to have peace of mind just for tensioners...but I'd go one more and replace all the valve cover seals and the boss seals for the sparkplugs..then you're good to go!

 

Yup! You nailed it! It's gives that periodic clack, and when I play when the throttle with little revs it will do the clack again, I need valve cover gaskets replaced anyways so should I change the vvt solenoids as well as tensioners? Thanks so much

 

The worn VVT noise is normally treated by increasing the 'weight' of the oil. Try a can of 'Restore' oil treatment. If that eliminates/reduces the noise use a heaver oil at the next change.

A '98 MY engine came with the first generation non-spring assisted tensioners whose failure rate is legendary. Several very knowledgeable folks have advised that the engine should not be started again before the tensioners are inspected/replaced. I would take that advice as the penalty for a failed tensioner is a replacement engine.

 

Please reread #7,#8

 

7, 8, and 12 in my book!

 

Yeah my brother is suggesting i fix the transmission first, Put thicker oil, and then do the timing chain tensioners after a few hundered miles of testing the engine to see if the car is worth keeping to further spend money on those tensioners,

(as we are not sure yet if the engine burns coolant being it was overheated once due to the plastic themo housing breaking apart while driving)

But when i pulled the plugs they all looked great, I got a gut feeling its better just to do the tensioners as well weather i keep the car or not because if those tensioners give out
(within those 300-400 miles of testing) then im stuck replacing the motor and there goes the car for i would not have the money for that.

I'd much rather wait a little longer and save up another $300 and get the tensioners and gaskets when i get the trans rebuild kit.

i was going to get the timing kit but i dont have $600 to put down on that at the moment.

I will be sure to show all your guys input on this subject so he could have better understanding of how risky it is running those tensioners any longer.

as for this Zip Tie technique people have used, i seen the video of him changing the one on the driver side, with the cams in this position can i move on the the passenger side and do it as well with the engine in the same position he had in the video?

Thanks a bunch guys especially about that VVT info. XJay8 and everyone else for this knowledge. such great people on this forum!

I promise i wont start the car anymore till i get the tensioners & gasket set

 

screw the transmission...do the tensioners and gaskets first, then once your engine is sound...move down the line to the next problem.

 

Thank you, tensioners first.

 

Tensioners first-everything else can wait. At the very least you need to get the cam covers off & check the tensioners.

If you do the job yourself with the zip tie method, all you need is the tensioners & new bolts-these parts are not that expensive & then when the job is done, you've got peace of mind to start the engine & then give the rest of the vehicle the full assessment or do the transmission.

So you number 1 priority job is to get those cam covers off & check the tensioners-nothing else matters at this stage until you get the tensioners checked & changed!

The job really is that important

 

If you are on the cheap, just buy the two tensioners and do the zip tie method. Reuse the gaskets until you can afford a new set. (if they are not damaged)

You can probably get er done for under $180 if you do a little price hunting. There is a parts store by me that quoted me under $80 each for the tensioners, PM me if you need the number. New bolts can be had at the dealer for around $8.

A new engine (good, used) is at least $1400 plus 8 hours to install/$800 vs. $180 its a no-brainer.

 

You got it guys, valve covers are coming off this weekend for inspection ill be sure to post lovely pictures to see what's all under there, it looks like the owner also missed a couple of oil changes, i just hope there is not too many surprises once that cover is off, but you guys can give feed back on what you think once you see the photos.
cheers!

 

This just in, for tensioner are the same as the Jags but cheaper?! check this thread out i seen
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...-jaguar-22555/