Hi All, I've just done something really stupid, I've took the battery off the car to charge it and then I've shut the boot lid to keep everything safe! so safe in fact that I can't get back in the boot.


I've read all the advice on using the jump points under the bonnet, but I'm slightly concerned that the positive battery lead could now be touching the boot floor or anything else metal in there for that matter.


The key turns in the XJR badge keyhole but doesn't seem to have any effect on the lock, should this be a mechanical way of operating the lock? is there another way of mechanically operating the boot lock?


Any help would be appreciated.


Steve

 

Clockwise rotation will indeed unlock the boot mechanicaly.
You may need to lube up the lock mechanism and try turning it many times. Easing your way to get it to turn slightly further each time until it finally opens.

My boot had not been opened by the mechanical lock for probably 15 of its 16 year life and yes it required probably 10-15 mins of putting in the key, lubrication and gaining courage to try turning it harder and harder until it opens.

Now it opens fine using the key and you would never know the mechanical lock was ever a problem.

 

Get out the WD-40 and spray that lock down and keep working it back and forth. It should open up.

If it is broken and you have never opened the boot with a key, you can advance search and find the method's of removing the license plate and tripping the latch thru the one of the mounting holes with a screwdriver

 

I just had the same problem, but fortunately the lock opened with the key. Good idea to try some spray lube until it works.

Edit : Can anyone tell me why you can't connect a battery via jump leads under the hood? Ground via the body, and + on the stud at the rear of the right hand inner fender?

Edit of the edit : Ahhh, just read your first post again. Never mind.

 

To figure out if the positive lead is actually grounded as you are worried about- measure the resistance from the underhood terminal to ground. If the resistance is greater than a few tens of ohms, you are probably OK. To be sure you don't fry anything, just put a 10 amp or so fuse in series with the jumper lead you connect to the underhood connection- it will protect the circuit.

Of course, the best way is to do as the others posted and get your key mechanism working, then check that it still works from time to time!

 

Thanks gents, the WD40 has been sprayed and I'll have another go in the morning, just as a reference how far should the key turn clockwise? currently turns easily and smoothly to about 45 degrees and stops dead.

 

WD40 is not the best product for freeing stuck mechanisms. PB Blaster is a lot better.

 

Once again thanks for all your help, tested the resistance and found it to be an open circuit so went straight for the under bonnet jump points and worked a treat. Now I'm going to sort that lock! If anybody gets a spare minute could they take note of how far the key turns and let me know. Thanks Steve

 

Almost 90 degrees.
Mine is super smooth, but still it needs a push harder then expected for the last part of the turn.
Let the solvent do its work.

 

By the way, even though admittedly what you did is stupid- most of us that have had these cars for a while have done it too! That's why I said it is a good thing to check your boot key mechanism from time to time.

 

As professional locksmiths on the forum have previously posted, the only lubricant to use for locks is powdered graphite.

Graham

 

I agree, but graphite is not going to loosen a stuck lock any more.
WD40 works fine, then clean it out with alcohol. Use graphite if everything is dry after some days.

 

hehe, yeah wd 40 or P.B. Blaster! spray in and work key, spray in again and just start working key around. Mine was hard and after 10 minutes and wiggling, finally popped open. As far as not sure if the positive cable is touching, use the jump points they told you, put positive on first, then just touch quickly the negative, if if throws lots of spark, its touching, if its a faint spark, you are good...

 

I just did this yesterday! I removed negative battery cable & then removed & cleaned MAFS & closed trunk & allowed MAFS to dry 1.5 hours b4 going back to reinstall & then tried to open trunk to reconnect battery. I had a moment of panic when I realized the button would not work nor the key fob due to no power! I looked & found the key slot to manually open it & I think this may have been the 1st time I ever used it. (15 years) It worked easily.

I just now checked & the key turns 45 degrees clockwise with no resistance & then as turn from 45 degrees to almost 90, you feel significant resistance & trunk opens.