XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Hoping to improve front-end refinement

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Old 04-01-2010, 09:35 AM
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Default Hoping to improve front-end refinement

Having read a number of posts on the upper front shock mount bushings (one of my orange bushings is crumbling away - the other seems ok), sway bar end-links and sway bar bushings, I thought I would invest a little money and time to try and cure - or at least improve - a couple of front-end issues with my 2000 VdP, namely 1) a vibration through the steering wheel (I had the wheels balanced a couple of weeks ago at my local shop but this has not cured the problem) - the vibration occurs at 60-65 regardless of engine revs, and I don't feel any vibration through the brake pedal if I brake during these speeds, which leads me to think it might not be the wheels but I'm no expert, and 2) a firm, metallic knock (not quite a clunk) whenever the front goes over a bump in the road (this is not a major issue but I just don't think a car like this should sound or feel this 'cheap' in such situations). The ride height and damping all seem fine, it just feels like the road imperfections are being transmitted through the various suspension linkages instead of being absorbed.

So before I get my wallet out and my hands dirty I was wondering about the following:

- Any special tools required? I have read that the upper front shock mount busshings need to be pressed into the plates with either a hydraulic press or a clamp, and our esteemed Jaguar Tech's on this forum have commented how tricky this can be. So, while I don't possess a press, I do possess a number of c-clamps, and wonder how easy/difficult/possible it would be to do with these.

- How long to do each of the tasks (I rate my auto mechanic skills as "enthusiastic amateur")?

- Which of the tasks should I expect the most improvement from?

- Any other jobs worth doing (inexpensive and "DIYable") relating to these kinds of front-end issues?

Thanks in advance for sharing any knowledge.

Cheers,

Steve.
 
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Old 04-01-2010, 11:55 AM
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A) I bet it's a slightly bent wheel... easy to damage these wheels for some reason.

B)


- Any special tools required? I have read that the upper front shock mount busshings need to be pressed into the plates with either a hydraulic press or a clamp, and our esteemed Jaguar Tech's on this forum have commented how tricky this can be. So, while I don't possess a press, I do possess a number of c-clamps, and wonder how easy/difficult/possible it would be to do with these.
You could just get the entire upper mount assembly, don't worry about just the bushings inside it. Just a thought.

- How long to do each of the tasks (I rate my auto mechanic skills as "enthusiastic amateur")?
If you can compress the spring safely, you can do the entire removal of the shock and spring to get to your mounts. Sway bar bushings cost me 3 hours of my life. Don't know about the rest of your chores. Jag dealer did my upper mounts for about 6 hours, IIRC.

Sway bar bushings and end links should be eazee!

- Which of the tasks should I expect the most improvement from?
Bang for your buck, the $12 per sway bar bushing, by far. The upper mount will help your camber and front ride height. Think tire wear savings and its a no-brainer.

- Any other jobs worth doing (inexpensive and "DIYable") relating to these kinds of front-end issues?
Do the sway bar links last...don't even buy them yet. You may not need them after you do the mounts and the bushings. Just my opinion.
 
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Old 04-01-2010, 03:26 PM
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We sell the poly upper bushings. Yes, they must be pressed. It's not a terribly difficult job. I think you could fashion a jig and use a vice to press them.

http://www.motorcarsltd.com/MNC2168-69.KIT.html
 
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Old 04-01-2010, 05:56 PM
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And the national auto parts stores have 'loaner' tools that make everything a lot less difficult and a lot less expensive.

Maintaining a XK8 and restoring a 28 year old Volvo have made me an expert on the loaner took kits. You buy them and then return for a full refund. I think I spent about $400 in March on them. Got it all back.
 
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Old 04-03-2010, 07:27 AM
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I am also an "enthusiastic amateur". I did the front shock mount bushings and new shocks in about 2 hours. I did not have the time or patience to try and fashion some kind of press with C-clamps etc. I just went and bought a press at Harbor Freight. The press cost me $129 but it did not bother me too much because the upper shock mounts with the bushings already in them are $250 each and I am pretty sure I can sell the press on Craigslist and get my money back. With the press the bushings were in and out in about a minute per side (not including removal of the mounts themselves).

The job is also easier and safer if you have a hydraulic jack(s) and jack stands.

I bought sway bar bushings on-line last week ($15). I have heard from the folks here that the job is easy so I am going to try it today.

Joe
98 VDP
 
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Old 04-03-2010, 11:43 AM
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Just finished the sway bushings. It is an easy job. The only problem I had was lining up the upper hole on the left side bracket. Took some fiddling but eventually got it. No problems on the right.

This little job made a big difference. The steering feels tighter and I used to have a small clicking sound when going over small bumps (especially noticeable at slow speeds). All gone.

Joe
98 VDP
 
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Old 04-03-2010, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by wolvesfan
...1) a vibration through the steering wheel (I had the wheels balanced a couple of weeks ago at my local shop but this has not cured the problem) - the vibration occurs at 60-65 regardless of engine revs, and I don't feel any vibration through the brake pedal if I brake during these speeds...
Had the same issue on my 98 VDP. New rotors eliminated the problem for me even though I was not trying to resolve that issue by changing them.

Shock mount bushings were changed as well and it resolved some low speed "clunking" issues. Next on the list is sway bar bushings.
 
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Old 04-06-2010, 08:01 AM
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Wow - thanks for all the insight guys, and if you celebrate Easter then I hope you had a good one. This feedback has helped me prioritize the list of jobs. Sway bar bushings first then brakes (I was planning to do this at some point but if there's a chance it could get rid of the dreaded wheel wobble then I will do it sooner rather than later. Interesting to note that changing the rotors had this positive side effect).

Changing the subject; the windshield developed a crack - about 10" long in a straight vertical line on the passenger side. Probably caused by me hosing off a load of tree pollen with cold water on a hot day, although I have done the same thing on other cars without a problem. Maybe the screen had been weakened by a stone impact at some point in it's earlier life. I scheduled an online appointment with Safelite last night and they are coming out today. I was expecting a mega-bucks bill, as with most non-DIY Jag repairs. However, their quote is for $234. Not too bad at all, I thought. Will let you know how it goes in terms of final cost and how good the service and quality of repair is. Main concern is that they don't scratch or dent the car and that the new screen does not introduce any creaks or more wind noise than at present.

Cheers,

Steve.
 
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Old 09-24-2011, 08:42 PM
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I think I need those shock bushings. The orange foamy-looking ones are crumbling. I also need to knock out the balljoints at some time!
 
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:07 AM
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Default Aternative Parts

I'm new to the site and this thread saved my wallet, however being cheap, impaient, and a bit of a mad engineer I came up with some alternative parts. I stopped by the local auto parts store and saw 1 7/8" - rubber expansion plugs. Took thoose apart and thinned them out a bit on the bench grinder, then opened the hole up with the drill press. So intead of even spending the 50-80 bucks for a bushing kit on line. I got out for an hour labor and 12.92 (you need 4 plugs @ 2.99 each). I soon as I install them (tonight I'll let you know). And as soon as I figure out how to post a picture I can attach a few. Note: I'm sure I'm not the first to think of this and that you could even find better materials somewhere else. But this was cheap, quick and got my creativness flowing...

Thanks again Chris

I posted this and a full discription with some pics on the related thread "front shock mount - is this bad" It took me no more then an hour to mod the plugs and about the same to disassembel and reassembel the XJ8
 
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Old 05-14-2013, 11:56 AM
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I need to replace my upper front shock bushings, and had inadvertently posted these comments on 300 forum:

I ordered mine from motor parts Limited $90 including shipping and handling.

They will have to be pressed into the old bushing mount; Which seems easy enough. Polyurethane and may ride a little stiffer than the original equipment.

Go to motorpartsltd.com and should be able to find them in their catalog.


Then, today:

Anybody have a good way to separate the bushings without using a hydraulic press? How do you do it with c-clamps? MotorParts kit says to use an 8mm bolt and push thru with a hydraulic press which I "ain't got!"

Thoughts?
 
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Old 05-14-2013, 03:55 PM
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Belay my last. Even though I was rudely reminded that the owner of this company was Ford (When my car was built ) by a member across the pond, I had forgotten the number one rule for working on Fords -- a rule that had been in place for over 100 years.

When in doubt get a bigger hammer.

Searching through my tool cabinet I found a 3/8 inch socket (the 7mm Allen for The brake calipers) That fit perfectly inside the female portion of the bushing And aligning perfectly with the male portion; To whacks with a hammer and it was free.

Again the forum saved tons of money. $90 for the replacement kit versus $270 for a complete new mount per side.
 
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:14 AM
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Steve....before you start unzipping your wallet, you may like to have a few things checked.
The front sub-frame mountings are notorious for letting go at this age and will make the clunk you describe over bumps or sudden braking.
Defo the top front and rear bushings as these take a lot of cornering and braking loads.
Also check the bottom ball joints.
Did you have your wheels statically or dynamically ballanced,....there is a world of difference ;o)
These wheels if they are fitted with Pirellis are a real pain to balance properly.
Pirellis are notoriopus for having out of round casings.
If you're feeling the vibes through the steering wheel, it is defo the wheels or the bushes.
As the bushes wear, they tend to set up an harmonoic vibration which is causing the wishbones to 'chatter' back and forth.
This will show up in tread wear on the insides of the tyre and usually causes 'feathering'
This sort of vibration can be hard to track down and as these cars age is usually a combination of factors.
This is the price we pay for sophisticated cars....none of which is insurmountable ;o))
 

Last edited by xjay8; 05-15-2013 at 07:17 AM.
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:14 AM
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Folks,

Appreciate the dialog from all contributors to this thread - and thanks for your input, xjay8 - that is going to be incredibly useful, I predict. I let my VDP go a few months back due to an uncertain job situation at the time. However, now that things are (thankfully) stabilizing again, I am saving up for another hobby car. Probably won't go the XJ route again just because I've had one and I would like to experience something else. A late 80's/v. early 90's XJS V12 REALLY appeals to me but then so does an XK8 4.2. I love the Coupe versions of both those cars but am torn between those and the soft tops just because of the climate here in NC. There's just something about Jaguars that I can't shake. I am of the opinion that all cars have a soul and are more than the just the sum of their parts, but Jaguars - they're just something else. I will be back on the forum again as soon as I have made an acquisition.

Good luck, and thanks!

Steve.
 
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