How can I fix/change sagging headliner? ('02 VDP)
#21
02-13-2011, 09:15 PM
Member
yeldogt,
It's absolutely possible to get the board out of the short wheelbase cars without removing the window.
I couldn't even begin to tell you how, but thats why I let the professionals do a job like this. I didn't see him get it out, but I saw it after - being
re-lined.
As I said in an earlir post - experience really comes in handy with certain tasks. I'm sure there are dogs a lot saltier than I am on these forums that would agree.
It's absolutely possible to get the board out of the short wheelbase cars without removing the window.
I couldn't even begin to tell you how, but thats why I let the professionals do a job like this. I didn't see him get it out, but I saw it after - being
re-lined.
As I said in an earlir post - experience really comes in handy with certain tasks. I'm sure there are dogs a lot saltier than I am on these forums that would agree.
The following users liked this post:
yeldogt (02-14-2011)
#23
08-17-2012, 12:35 AM
Classy headliner fix for $0
I capitalized on Dan R's idea for my 98 VDP so he deserves the credit.
Rip down four or more pieces of finish grade Cedar 1/8" thick 3/4" wide 6' long. A locally owned hardware store or cabinet shop had some scrap and a table saw and cut the pieces for free.
Sand all four sides and corners. Keep ends sanded to a dull chisel's point. Soak in water for a day so they will bend easily.
Note: Always use a plastic putty knife pressed up against the headliner.
Wipe wet dirt off and flex one end so the wood will relax.
Do as Dan R said and push the "relaxed" end up behind the plastic trim pushing it against the unseen OMG handle screw. Bow it across the ceiling and scribe about where you think it will bottom out on the other screw. Better to scribe it a inch longer btw.
Take it down, cut and sand the rough edge. Do the "relax" trick on this end too. Push it in and slide other end in from the back side. If it feels too long, cut it a little shorter.
The area above the two small side windows has nothing to butt up against. The bow effect simply wont work. I tried. So...
Do as before but cut this one 4-6" longer overall. This piece wont be as tight up in those corners. If you like it, leave it, or...
Cut two more scrap pieces, one for each side, 18" long. They should be drying which is good. Slide it 8" down between the wood trim and the plastic trim. (see IMAG0731) Should be sticking out 8-10 inches. Dont force it in and try not to move the previous piece, you might hit some wires, idk, or shift the headliner. Dont forget to sand a dull chisel point.
Obviously you can put a piece in behind the sunroof too.
Originally i used a knot filled redwood 2x4. I tried to remove to stain it but it broke. So i re did the whole thing in Cedar. I though of using Mahogany or Cherry but those woods are probably too hard.
Working at the speed of smell. This project took about 2 hours. Cost $0. I left it in unstained with no varathane or anything on it. Looks like it belongs there really. Many thanks to Dans great idea.
Rip down four or more pieces of finish grade Cedar 1/8" thick 3/4" wide 6' long. A locally owned hardware store or cabinet shop had some scrap and a table saw and cut the pieces for free.
Sand all four sides and corners. Keep ends sanded to a dull chisel's point. Soak in water for a day so they will bend easily.
Note: Always use a plastic putty knife pressed up against the headliner.
Wipe wet dirt off and flex one end so the wood will relax.
Do as Dan R said and push the "relaxed" end up behind the plastic trim pushing it against the unseen OMG handle screw. Bow it across the ceiling and scribe about where you think it will bottom out on the other screw. Better to scribe it a inch longer btw.
Take it down, cut and sand the rough edge. Do the "relax" trick on this end too. Push it in and slide other end in from the back side. If it feels too long, cut it a little shorter.
The area above the two small side windows has nothing to butt up against. The bow effect simply wont work. I tried. So...
Do as before but cut this one 4-6" longer overall. This piece wont be as tight up in those corners. If you like it, leave it, or...
Cut two more scrap pieces, one for each side, 18" long. They should be drying which is good. Slide it 8" down between the wood trim and the plastic trim. (see IMAG0731) Should be sticking out 8-10 inches. Dont force it in and try not to move the previous piece, you might hit some wires, idk, or shift the headliner. Dont forget to sand a dull chisel point.
Obviously you can put a piece in behind the sunroof too.
Originally i used a knot filled redwood 2x4. I tried to remove to stain it but it broke. So i re did the whole thing in Cedar. I though of using Mahogany or Cherry but those woods are probably too hard.
Working at the speed of smell. This project took about 2 hours. Cost $0. I left it in unstained with no varathane or anything on it. Looks like it belongs there really. Many thanks to Dans great idea.
The following 2 users liked this post by jonpalley:
DimitrisBXL (02-22-2016),
Harvey Campi (08-19-2012)
#24
08-17-2012, 10:05 AM
Veteran Member
I bought a box of these and they work great:
Amazon.com: Heads Up HU850 Saggy Stoppers Fasteners: Automotive
I'll pick a pic of my headliner once the snow melts off my Jag. It makes it much less noticeably and most importantly keeps the headliner from sagging on a rear passenger. The risk of such embarrassment is the main reason I decided to try to fix it.
Amazon.com: Heads Up HU850 Saggy Stoppers Fasteners: Automotive
I'll pick a pic of my headliner once the snow melts off my Jag. It makes it much less noticeably and most importantly keeps the headliner from sagging on a rear passenger. The risk of such embarrassment is the main reason I decided to try to fix it.
I used this to "fix" the headliner but I spray-painted the fasteners myself to match the color.
it actually looks not bad at all considering as a cheap fix
#25
08-18-2012, 11:58 PM
Senior Member
I used to do used cars and when one had a sagging head liner I would gently pull it to the rear of the car and use a staple gun and staple as close to the edge as I could then tuck in the extra material then I would go side to side and do the same thing. Then I would spray or dab a little dye on the staples and it looked as good as new.
Or you can pull it out and spend a few Hundred for a new one and pay to have it installed.
One is a little getto but doesn't look bad if you take your time and don't get sloppy. I never had anyone comeback and mention it. The other costs a whole lot more.
Or you can pull it out and spend a few Hundred for a new one and pay to have it installed.
One is a little getto but doesn't look bad if you take your time and don't get sloppy. I never had anyone comeback and mention it. The other costs a whole lot more.
#26
08-19-2012, 08:12 PM
#27
08-26-2016, 09:58 AM
Junior Member
This is an easy do-it-yourself, probably a day to remove/re-cover/install. A few tools and a good matching material plus some spray glue.
The first step is to remove the sun visor clips and sun visors, unclipping the connection for their lights. (phillips screwdriver to unscrew.)
Next the rear roof lining/rear sun blind clips, and the centre lighting, release the sunglasses storage and look up for the black plastic clip, half a turn and it drops down, unclip the wiring for this also. Connecting back up is easy as they're 1-way-clips.
Make sure all the screws and plastic finishers are stored safe.
Next is to unbolt the grab handles so you can remove the a/b/c pillars. A thin flat screwdriver to release the bolt covers at the ends of the grab handles, then unbolt the handles from the body (a small torx drive required here)
Next is to undo the upper part of the B pillar, it's held by a nut behind the seatbelt slider. The slider cover just pops off. I think the nut is 16/17mm, so a spanner or socket required here. Once this is free, you can carefully unclip the upper parts of the A and C pillars.
Two choices at this point, glue in situe, or bend the roof card like Olga Korbut! Once one side is free of the A/B/C pillars, it can be dropped down, and the other side pulled so the card is ready to get bent, and taken out of a rear door.
A small paint scrapper can be used to remove the foam underneath the material. This gives a cleaner surface to bond the new material on.
Start at the rear of the card and glue the new material down at 12" intervals, it's easier to keep the tension in the material and get it right without wrinkles or pulls. Don't kneel on the card while you do with or you can be left with an imprint.
The slightly tricky bit is around the front, take time to push the material into the recesses around the sun visors, make sure the spray glue is hi temp automotive grade, 3M or similar. A good thing is to let it get almost dry and spray both roof card and material.
I covered mine in storm grey Alcantara, A,C pillars, sunvisors and map light thing. B pillars are black nappa leather. All those are far tougher to do!
The first step is to remove the sun visor clips and sun visors, unclipping the connection for their lights. (phillips screwdriver to unscrew.)
Next the rear roof lining/rear sun blind clips, and the centre lighting, release the sunglasses storage and look up for the black plastic clip, half a turn and it drops down, unclip the wiring for this also. Connecting back up is easy as they're 1-way-clips.
Make sure all the screws and plastic finishers are stored safe.
Next is to unbolt the grab handles so you can remove the a/b/c pillars. A thin flat screwdriver to release the bolt covers at the ends of the grab handles, then unbolt the handles from the body (a small torx drive required here)
Next is to undo the upper part of the B pillar, it's held by a nut behind the seatbelt slider. The slider cover just pops off. I think the nut is 16/17mm, so a spanner or socket required here. Once this is free, you can carefully unclip the upper parts of the A and C pillars.
Two choices at this point, glue in situe, or bend the roof card like Olga Korbut! Once one side is free of the A/B/C pillars, it can be dropped down, and the other side pulled so the card is ready to get bent, and taken out of a rear door.
A small paint scrapper can be used to remove the foam underneath the material. This gives a cleaner surface to bond the new material on.
Start at the rear of the card and glue the new material down at 12" intervals, it's easier to keep the tension in the material and get it right without wrinkles or pulls. Don't kneel on the card while you do with or you can be left with an imprint.
The slightly tricky bit is around the front, take time to push the material into the recesses around the sun visors, make sure the spray glue is hi temp automotive grade, 3M or similar. A good thing is to let it get almost dry and spray both roof card and material.
I covered mine in storm grey Alcantara, A,C pillars, sunvisors and map light thing. B pillars are black nappa leather. All those are far tougher to do!
#28
08-26-2016, 10:32 AM
#29
08-26-2016, 01:09 PM
yeldogt,
It's absolutely possible to get the board out of the short wheelbase cars without removing the window.
I couldn't even begin to tell you how, but thats why I let the professionals do a job like this. I didn't see him get it out, but I saw it after - being
re-lined.
As I said in an earlir post - experience really comes in handy with certain tasks. I'm sure there are dogs a lot saltier than I am on these forums that would agree.
It's absolutely possible to get the board out of the short wheelbase cars without removing the window.
I couldn't even begin to tell you how, but thats why I let the professionals do a job like this. I didn't see him get it out, but I saw it after - being
re-lined.
As I said in an earlir post - experience really comes in handy with certain tasks. I'm sure there are dogs a lot saltier than I am on these forums that would agree.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BlacXJRcat
XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 )
1
09-25-2015 06:43 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)