The connector on the coolant reservoir for the straight overflow line (not the L-shaped one) running to the top of the radiator cracked leaving the stem in the wire and 2mm stub on the reservoir connector.

How do I mend this?? The ring around the connector spins freely but does not seem to come off no matter what I do and the broken stem is still in the tube.

Considering using epoxy to just glue the thing back on, is this a good idea? It is only an overflow but it needs to contain the pressure.

 

This is someone else's engine, but it shows the location of the issue:

 

well if you insist on making it looked rigged and cheap, then buy an oversized piece of hose about 1/2" and clamp over the nipple after you remove the pipe connector, then clamp over the pipe further down. There is no pressure in that line but vacuum when the enigne cools. As it heats up it pushes coolant into the over flow tank in front of the left front tire. Then sucks it back in as it cools, if its not air tight it wont suck coolant back into the reservoir and keep the syetm full. Or you could just buy a new one. Theyre not that expensive

 

Buy a new what? Is the connector available without the reservoir?

 

So the black plastic hose broke away from the connector? Leaving the connector stuck in the tank?

The connectors can be difficult to remove - you must squeeze the taps and pull out the connector -- my memory says two "o" rings are what is holding it back. You may have to use needle-nose pliers or a bent wire to pull the small part of the connector out from the tank.

I would not try to fix the pipe -- I bet it is getting brittle throughout the length. They are not very expensive.

 

If you determine that you cannot replace the fitting inexpensively you might try to find a small diameter brass tube to fit the inside dimension of plastic parts and JB Weld it in place. Such tubes are available in many sizes at a large hardware store as sorta a hobby item. Or at a model plane/car/boat hobby store. If you can be neat with the gray JB Weld it will be an invisible repair. Ask me how I know. Bet my left over piece from the part load breather connector would fit.

 

That connector is not avail seperatly, and why does jb wled keep getting brought up around here for plastic repair???
You mix jb weld on a piece of plastic, then when it dries it peels right off. Why you ask? cause it don't stick to no plastic
if you want to do plastic epoxying, then buy a 2 part plastic epoxy like
permapoxy by permatex. Or...you could just fix it correctly by replacing it. To get those connectors off i never squeeze them cause that will really break them when they get old. I use a small pocket screwdriver between that locking ring and the part its clamped on and gently pry each side off evenly till it comes off

 

Braided hose + bushing type fitting would look awfully tempting in these circumstances. And wouldn't look butchered at all.

 

Had the same problem. Here's my butchered/hack work. If I remember in my case it was the fitting on the line that was damaged by the PO. They had JB weld wadded around the fitting in a ball.

Since I cleaned off the mess and did it this way so far 10,000 miles and no hint of a leak. (not here at least)

 

Regarding adhesives for plastics...

Everything is dependent on what the plastic is.

For example, ABS can be stuck together using MEK to melt the plastic then you push the parts together. Crazy Glue also works well on ABS. I used both methods on fender liners and ducts for NASCAR without failures at over 200 mph.

Polypropylene however is a bit tricky. 3M makes an adhesion promoter that you rub on. It's in a container that's like a bingo marker and has lots of warnings on it. From there you can use a pressure sensitive adhesive or a urethane product.

Personally I use a Loctite Hysol U-05FL for everything. It's a urethane and so far sticks to everything. I have yet to find something it won't stick to. It requires a special dispensing gun and mix nozzels, but there isn't anything I can't glue together so far.

I originally sourced it for a carbon fiber part I produced for boat racing but I've used it on every type of barbie doll and knick nack that my daughter and wife can break.

It's not cheap and the gun is pricy but you can find them on fleabay with different names stamped on them. They are standard sized. My "Lord" gun works just fine with the loctite material.

Ken

 

Well I tried using a thin 2-part epoxy and it did not hold even 1 minute... Ugh...

Please someone tell me where to order the connector from?

 

you get the whole line with the fitting manufactured to it. Or Sinisters fix looks clean too

 

I broke the other one that runs to the front of the intake or whatever, but I would assume the same principles would apply. I broke the fitting off of the reservoir and clamped a 1/2" fuel hose to the "barb" sticking out from the tank. Then I clamped a 3/8" hose barb with 1/4" NPT male threads into the 1/2" hose. I clamped 3/8" fuel hose to the ****** side of the fitting and ran it to the intake and clamped it on there. It works great and it was the only fix I could come up with in the middle of the night with what I had while reinstalling my transmission. It doesn't look too rigged either.

Why did it put all astericks for "******?"

 

I had the same thing happen... my quick repair was as Brual suggested... got a piece of hose and clamped it over the nipples - worked fine for several months. Then I got tired of the way it looked and ploped down the cash for a new one. They were not that expensive seem to remember being about $20.

Trying to glue the connector back on the hose is foolhardy considering how cheap you can either rig up a piece of hose or simply buy a new hard plastic one. Saving a few $$$ (and I mean a few) won't be worth it when you get stranded because your coolant has blown all over the road.

 

Agreed. Just ordered a used one for $25 on ebay...