Big thanks to Astigmatism for finding and posting the great link to Jim Roals Alpine stereo wiring guide.

Also thanks to stkxjrtech for info on routing the cabling through the car.

Please post any comments on the original thread

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=11886

(I posted this new thread as the title of the original thread where all the info is doesn't really cover what the thread is about. If any board moderator wants to edit the original thread title and remove this thread, that would be great)

 

Do keep in mind however, that the method referred to for this thread means cutting the audio signal leads out of the back of the CD changer. This effectively allows you to use those leads for the CD-changer as an audio source or an AUX input source, but not both without actually unplugging one source and plugging in the other.

In addition to further research in the "Factory Phone" thread, we've discovered that aftermarket bluetooth kits that integrate into the factory phone signal input use only the front speakers in the system. This of course is not ideal for AUX input (some aftermarket bluetooth kits also include iPod integration)

In all actuality a "true" AUX input does not exist in the Jag XJ8/XJR.

 

You do lose the CDChanger, but it's not required if you have these 6 disks on your MP3 player :-)

Understand your point about the front speakers only for the bluetooth kit method. That was the key reason I went the "Butcher you CDChanger" method

I'm just glad it's working !

 

Just to add to this thread... I have read and understand the "Butcher the CD changer" method and will be implementing this shortly as a direct input to the stereo for my Sirius radio. However, since my CD changer still works, I plan on adding a small double pole, double throw relay in the CD changer compartment to be able to remotely select (through a switch discreetly hidden but readily availabe to the driver) either the auxiliary (Sirius) or the CD changer as the input. This should be a simple modification. I'll post more information and some pictures, when I have the mod completed.

 

Hi Quad

Sounds good. I did think about adding a switch, but that fact that I already had all of my CDs on my MP3 player stopped me from going further.

Looking forward to seeing your extension of the original idea. If you have any problems with the butchering, either post here or PM me

 

This is cool stuff. I have a question though:

With regards to the Changer, is there a difference between cars equipped with the Alpine audio (as identifed on speaker grills) vs. Harmon Kardon. My XJR's speaker grills say Harmon Kardon on them.

 

Hi Honza

I'm not sure (As I have the Alpine set up). I "think" I saw a post a while back that showed the difference between the HK and Alpine set up was only the speakers and the addition of the amp in the trunk for the Alpine system.

The general theory would work for any CD Changer, so worst case, if the HK has a different changer you may have different wiring inside the CD changer so you would have to find the wiring diagram for your changer to work out which wires to tap in to.

As you have the HK system, you won't have an amp in the rear trunk rack, and if you also don't have satnav it would be a very quick exercise to remove the trunk panel and take the CD changer out and have a look at it to see if it has Alpine (or other) markings on it ?

Let us know how you get on as it would be good to add a definitive answer for HK cars

 

Okay, I just got done adding an Aux input for my Sirius radio using the 'Butcher the CD' method. In addtition I added a 2 pole, 2 position relay (Radio Shack, about $5) at the CD player to select output to the stereo head from either the CD or from the Aux input. I ran an additional wire, along with the aux shielded stereo pair and the Siruis antenna wire, to control the relay from a tiny toggle switch that I mounted to the Sirius radio mount. I mounted the Sirius mount over top of the open ash tray compartment, and it looks quite good there. I passed all wires through a hole drilled in the side of the compartment where the (removed) ash tray will cover it, as described in earlier posts.

I used RCA jacks for all connections (just as had been shown in the 'butcher' document). The only problem I have found is that with ALL the shields (CD, head unit, Aux) tied together, I was getting some alternator noise in the signal (a high pitched whine) so I assumed I had a ground loop through the shield connections. I then partiallly unplugged just the outer ring on the CD's RCA connectors, and sure enough, the noise went away when listening to Sirius on the AUX channel. When listening to the CD, it was necessary to partially unplug the Aux RCA's grounds, and plug the CD's back in to get rid of the noise... so ground loop was confirmed.

The Sirius radio is powered by car power and ground and this ground is what introduces the ground loop, MP3 players are not powered by car - or are isolated... so this makes sense. If you're just going to listen to a self contained MP3 player or phone, this will not be an issue - ONLY if you are connecting the AUX signal to a device that uses auto power and ground (and want to add my relay to switch between CD and AUX) does this occur.

I, therefore, separated all three sets of ground shields at the entry to the CD (see Butcher method) AND added ANOTHER 2 pole, two position relay there, using it to select between AUX and CD shields with the relay common connected to the shield going back to the the head unit, and controlled this relay from the same wire as the other relay (of course, a single 3 or 4 pole, 2 throw relay will work here, but it's not as readily availabe at Radio Shack) - VOILA, all ground loops and associated noise are gone. With my switch in one position, I can listen to my Sirius through the AUX connection, with the switch in the other position, I listen to the CD, as normal.

Next, I'll be tackling the Motorola T605 Blue Tooth adapter. This is FUN!

Below is a schematic drawing of the connections required: Enjoy!

 

impressive quad, nice job. I hate the alternator whine...i've got one myself!

 

Nice one Quad, another step up from the original idea.

Good luck with the Parrot bluetooth, we're here if you need help

 

@ SARC

I was curious how your mod has held up over time. Have you had any issues? Any new lessons learned?

 

I can tell you that my aux input is working great, only a month or so on it though... can't see anything that will deteriorate over time.

I also installed the Motorola T605 bluetooth car kit last week and it works fantastically! Can't beat the price, either - they're available all over eBay for $30 up. Great sound through the front speakers, people tell me I sound like I talking to them from home, even while doing 70 on the highway; total ease of use and the phone interface to the stereo head unit was a breeze with the jag's connector under and behind the console storage box. Just a great addition!

 

@ Quad

Good stuff. My reasoning for trying the mod is specifically for iPod and XM use. With that said, I am planning to use a source selector. I thought about wiring the CD Changer into the source selector but am not sure I want it constantly running with CDs (I assume this is what happens in order to have the switch?). I will run the wires to make it possible but I dont believe I will ever use it.

I'm glad I reread your post which talks about the alternator whine, that will save me some trouble.

 

Yes, the one drawback to all of this is that if I want to readily change between my Sirius and a CD, I must have CD's in the changer, so it is merrily playing them along, even while I'm listening to Sirius radio. Not so bad, I can't tell - except for the display showing what track is playing, and the CD changer may wear out more quickly from constant use. BUT, this does not have to be the case!

I now have a regimen - if I expect to want to listen to CD's, I put the cartridge in the player before driving. Now I can use my switch to select between Sirius and CD. If I don't expect to listen to CD's, I just leave it out - the head displays 'CD - No Cartridge' or equivalent. No other ill effects and I can still listen to the Sirius. If only there was a 'pause' function, i could leave the cartridge in and pause it.

In your case, if you don't care to listen to CD's, just leave the cartridge out and make your selection between iPod and XM. You can still wire the CD audio into a 3 input source selector... you just have to go through the same thing I do - decide before driving whether you might want to listen to them or not.

 

@ Quad

I have read Jim's document multiple times but am having a hard time grasping the concept of the T605 bluetooth interoperability with the headunit. Is the center console splicing required for speech and the CD changer required for audio? Any details you might be able to add would be appreciated.

 

The phone connector in the center console has an audio+ and - input that mate up to the phone audio + and - from the T605, the head unit itself switches to these inputs when the mute line (also in that connector) is pulled low, and sends the phone audio through the two front speakers. This is different from the AUX input we added at the CD.

HOWEVER, the T605 also supports bluetooth streaming audio, and has a aux stereo input and stereo output (unrelated to the phone audio) AND a built in selector switch - that selects between bluetooth streaming audio, and it's own aux in, selectable from the remote buttons...

SO, you can take the output from your XM source (or your selector), run it to the AUX in on the T605, then run the stereo out of the T605 back to the head unit thru the CD butcher, just as you are going to already with the output of your selector..

NOW, you can select between bluetooth streaming audio or your AUX selector as the source for the full stereo system (all speakers), using the remote switch for the T605... and then if you make or get a call, the head unit automatically switches to phone mode, mutes the music and sends the bluetooth audio from your phone to just the front speakers.

It is all slick as hell and works great straight out of the box, with just a simple hook up to the existing console connector (for phone) - and to your CD butcher connections (for Hi Fi audio).

BTW, the wire's color code varies a bit in the center console connector, but the signals seem to stay faithful to the pin numbers as defined in the PDF document.

MAN, was this too long and too confusing?

 

@ Quad

Brother, makes perfect sense, thank you. I was wrapped around the axle over the 605's aux input/output and it's purpose when it was already connected at the center console. Thanks for the clarification.

So basically, if I understand correctly...I can stream iTunes over bluetooth or run XM through the 605's aux input all the while having full functionality of the phone/mute capes over both applications.

 

BTW, how was the splice and dice into the factory mic? Lessons learned?

 

@ 3 down

The phone thread is not easy to find, if you haven't seen it, it's here....

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=11547

Regarding the mic wiring, XJ8Johnny ran his own cable down the screen pillar, I hacked into the factory wiring on each end, and Astigmatism bought the Nexxus adaptor kit which meant absolutely no cutting at all. So there's a method to suit you, just depends what you are most comfortable with (running wires around the car trim, cutting coax cabling, or spending a little bit more and avoiding all cutting)

If you are comfortable doing the CDChanger hack you will have no problems hacking into the factory mic wiring

 

The mic was simple... simply cut the mic wire that comes with the T605 about a foot from the mic, cut the connnector from the the existing mic shielded wire in the overhead console (very easy to remove the console and the wire is a simple center conductor with non-braided shield around it, like a typical RCA cable, easy to splice) and splice the T605 mic wire into it (same kind of cable - center with non braided shield) - reassemble the console leaving the mic sticking out the side, facing the driver's head.

At the other end, shorten and splice the left over T605 mic cable into the two wires (same pair that's in the overhead - but no longer shielded, just two conductors) at the console connector, and plug the other end into the T605. It works perfectly with no noise - i've been told they can't tell i'm in the car.

One word of sorta warning - I have an engineer co-worker that I use for phone tests, so we speak the same language and understand what we're looking for... I call him if I want a reasonable analysis of how a phone is sounding, etc. He noticed a strange 'woosh' sound coming throught my mic's sound during one test while I was driving along at 70mph.. I discovered it was because the A/C was on and the register was pointing straight at the mic. I moved the airflow down, and the sound went away... that was the only artifact in sound that he was able to discern even at that speed. I haven't tried it yet, but I expect that a foam windscreen over the mic would eliminate even this.

Compared to other bluetooth installs i've done in other vehicles, I'd say this is far and above the best sounding at both ends, and the easiest to install and use.