I am trying to start a parts car I bought to see if the engine is good. It had a broken secondary timing chain when I bought. I am trying to lock the crankshaft with a pin through the crankshaft position sensor hole. When I am rotating the engine and looking through the access hole, I do not see the triangle that all the sources say i should plainly see. I see bolt heads and smaller holes. I even marked one of the bolt heads and kept turning and saw it go by three times. I am 99% certain I am looking in the correct hole. On my 1999 XJ, the access hole is forward facing, at the bottom of the motor, just behind the power steering assembly. It looks to be the correct access hole per the pictures. I even took off one valve cover to get the cams near flat and still can not see this mysterious "triangle".

Has anybody actually done this so they can tell me what I am doing wrong.

Brian

 

Oh snap, I think I answered my question. In looking at this pic, even if the triangle doesn't jump out at me, I can see the one oblong hole next to all the square holes (at 8 oclock in this pic) as the fole that the tool should fit into. When turning the engine, I can see these holes. That is what I will try after work tonight. There was no cover on my access hole, so the plate is a little rusty and I may not have been able to see a "vague" triangle. I thought it was going to be raised and plain as day.

B

 

I cannot remember which is which, but the AJ26 engine and the AJ27 engines are different. I believe the AJ26 (MY 98) had the triangle, but the AJ27 (MY 99- MY02) did not.

Also, FWIW, there are very strong warnings in the manual, as well as from several of the Jag trained mechanics here about distorting the sensor ring by using it to lock the crankshaft. I have used a strap wrench on the front pulley, but now I have the correct tool to do that! It aint very expensive in the big scheme, and it beats breaking the damper rubber isilator or distorting the sensor ring.

 

I was able to lock it down last night. I never did see any triangle through the access hole. Instead I looked upward through the access hole and was able to see the one oval/oblong hole in the above picture when it came around. I then removed the sensor and aligned the oblong hole on the flywheel with the sensor hole opening. Instead of spending $$$ on the lockdown bolt tool, i found an old bolt in me garage that just fit into the sensor hole, ground down flat spots on each side, and slid it through the hole and fitted the end in the oblong hole. It held perfectly. There is no need to bolt it down as it isn't going anywhere.

Hope this helps anyone in the same situation.

Brian

 

Soooooo........ DID IT START?

 

The crank 'lock-tool' is just for timing. It is NOT for locking the crank for damper removal.

It merely holds the crank in the 45 degree ATDC for setting the cam/crank timing.

I have witnessed the AGONY of engine running fault diagnosis AFTER the lock tool was used to remove/install the damper bolt.

For TWO DAYS the mechanic next to me struggled with diagnosing poor running and cam/crank DTCs. We finally convinced him that he bent the timing segment but he denied using the tool to lock the crank for the damper bolt.

Finally pulled the gearbox and found the bent segment. Parts dept wanted something like $800 for a new one. He was SICK!!!!!

Luckily another mechanic in the shop had a good used one and gave it to him.

JUST A WARNING!!!!

bob gauff

 

No start. I have concluded that the motor may be toast. When the secondary timing chain broke (previous owner) it must have done more damage. I can see down in there that the primary tensioner appears to be broken also. It appears that the primary timing chain has jumped a cog after locking down the motor. With a fully charged battery, the car turns over slower than normal. There is no metal on metal though.

Oh well, after selling the drivers seat I am only into it for $450. I bought it for the tranny for my 1997 that has a blown A drum. I need a few other misc parts. I gave it the old college try.

Brian