XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Looks like I need timing chain work. URGENT ADVICE NEEDED

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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 07:47 PM
  #61  
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XJR100 Paramount !?!? What have you done? I've got a 100 and put a few upgrades from Eurotoys: larger lower pulley, rebuilt SC with some porting and polishing, big intercooler radiator (I live in a high heat area) Mina rear silencers (look good, anyway). I like to surf Paramount's site ...
 
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by plumsauce
He can probably go well beyond surface scars since it sounds like his friend has access to a good machine shop behind him. Mind you, that will require crankshaft straightening and balancing due to the processes involved.

And it is still not confirmed reliably that the crank even needs any work. Reliable = the owners own eyeballs.

Gotta love that link: "Precision clearance measuring system for shell bearings" = plastigauge.
True, and I use Moore and Wright Micrometers!
 
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 04:23 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by hispeed42
XJR100 Paramount !?!? What have you done? I've got a 100 and put a few upgrades from Eurotoys: larger lower pulley, rebuilt SC with some porting and polishing, big intercooler radiator (I live in a high heat area) Mina rear silencers (look good, anyway). I like to surf Paramount's site ...
It had 'the works' done at Paramount, re-map, pulleys, full exhaust.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by burmaz
Wow that is insane. The tensioner starved the engine for oil? Has anyone heard of this happening? I guess it could technically happen. Talk about bad luck.

Yeah, I would hope the oil filter would catch that stuff....

Making wonder about mine now. I replaced my tensioners already but I actually discovered they had already failed when I took them out. Pieces of plastic were laying in the valve cover body. I got lucky in that they didn't cause the chain to skip.

I didn't recover all of the pieces so I am wondering if I should drop the oil pan to see if I can get them out?

I would ditto the comments by another poster that learning to work on it is the best way to go.... in fact, I would go so far as to say that it is a requirement to work on a jag if you own one .

They are an endless supply of problems and will drain your bank account quickly if you take it to the dealer for everything.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by chinny4290
Is there any way we can get any Certified Techs to chime in please? I've received feedback by experienced forum members but nobody donning the "Tech Certified" pic next to their name.
A whining noise is not a rod bearing noise. You will hear a knock noise that will come and go while accel and decel in neutral.

It is impossible for metal to get through the oil filter to cause sub damage. Oil will by pass the oil filter when cold and this will spew debris into the oil stream.

I would need to see the spun rod bearing before making a statement such as you have received.

From a shop's point of view they may a hunch there is sub damage from the chain and recommend a used engine rather than tear it down. It would involve them spending allot of time and come to the conclusion anyway.. This would add to your bill for a used engine.

I would agree the replacement route would be less expensive for you in the long run.

If you decide to rebuild it your self with some help I would not be surprised at the end of the day it would have cost you more and who knows how long it would reliably work anyway.

Engine rebuilding takes experience.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 03:53 PM
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Hey. So i'm still trying to consider all of my options. Will a 2004 AJ34 4.2L V8 fit on my X308? I know there's a thread stick for that in the Xk forums and I read it through. But would it work for an X308?

And I might be humoring myself but how far-fetched is a Chevy LS V8 swap?
 

Last edited by chinny4290; Feb 22, 2011 at 03:58 PM.
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 04:52 PM
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Some guys in Australia claim to have put a LS into the Jaguar and also claim to be producing a kit to do that. That was months ago and they have not reappeared.

With today's electronics the hurtles to overcome are mind boggling. If you must go to the 4.2L the most simple path might be to use it as a short block and reuse everything else.

Actually, the most simple path is to acquire a rebuilt long block and reuse everything. Hope you have another car for the R&R period.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 06:23 PM
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I remember reading a thread back in Oct 2010 about replacing the XJ8 engine and transmission with a GM LS2 or LS1. I just did a search and found the posting. Looks like it was posted by the-Jag-Guy (maybe he is banned from the forum now - says banned where it says member). Anyway there is some information about doing engine/transmission conversion. Here is the link: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...96#post257296/. Also do a internet search using "Jaguar Lumps" to find more websites with XJ8 engine replacement/conversions.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 10:23 PM
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What about using the 3.9L AJV8 used in the LS and Thunderbird? Don't know if its feasible, just figured I would throw that out there...
 
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 12:45 PM
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The 4.2 swap is feasible, like test point says. The information Avos has posted is bang on and confirmed by someone I know who carried out a swap on an XJ308, the only difference being an R engine.
I'm guessing with a bit of work an LS/Tbird block would work too. Research locating each sensor on each wiring diagram before work starts just to confirm if it's doable? crank sensor for one.
Using your heads means injection and induction stay as before. New oil pump on any rebuild, refresh all timing gear. You've a lot to spend before you're near the quotes you've had, I'd be sensible and go with the same engine, just a good steel low miles short block. It's simple then.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 02:55 PM
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Hey guys. I tumbled across this eBay listing that pretty much has an AJ27 long block reconditioned selling for $2295.

Here's the listing. What do you guys think?

Does this seem too good to be true?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 04:41 PM
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Too good to be true would be a rebuilt jag engine for $200 . Looks legit to me. If you want a brand new engine, go for it!
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by JagScott
Too good to be true would be a rebuilt jag engine for $200 . Looks legit to me. If you want a brand new engine, go for it!

I might take out a loan if I do...Then I'll transplant it my self...looks like I have to move everything over...intake manifold, covers, wiring harness, throttle body...doesn't seem too difficult if SeanB or I forgot who said they had their new engine in under 3 hours IIRC.

If I did this, would I be ok just temporarily transplanting coils/packs until I recoup some money?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 05:17 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by chinny4290

If I did this, would I be ok just temporarily transplanting coils/packs until I recoup some money?
Of course, if the car ran without electronic glitches before then it'll be the same.

I'd ask if the timing chain tensioners etc are in fact metal, I know it's an obvious question but with the timing cover on and no mention in the description I can see, it's one I'd ask before pulling the trigger.

Core charge, is this engine supplied on exchange of an old one?

A year is as good as it gets on warranty rebuilds. Fair in my mind.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 06:14 PM
  #75  
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No electrical glitches...just the usual Knock sensor.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 01:26 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by chinny4290
I might take out a loan if I do...Then I'll transplant it my self...looks like I have to move everything over...intake manifold, covers, wiring harness, throttle body...doesn't seem too difficult if SeanB or I forgot who said they had their new engine in under 3 hours IIRC.

If I did this, would I be ok just temporarily transplanting coils/packs until I recoup some money?
I think that rebuilt engine is a good starting point.
Of course you can just swap out all the "old" parts of your original engine.
But I highly recommend using new gaskets only!
Knock sensors are 30$/each so no big deal here.
Gaskets will be another story though...


David
 
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 02:35 PM
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Default Found Article on 4.2 XKR engine swap into XJR 4.0

Hi
I found this Article on the Jaguar Forum's file space on mediafire website:
XJR remixed: Elite XJR proof swap
Here is the website link to do the download of the PDF fie: http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?i4fmomwcgdh

It looks like more expense to do this swap from XKR into XJ8 because you also have to purchase the stronger mercedes 6 speed transmission for this swap,
They took a late model XKR 4.2L and installed it into a 1999 X308 XJR.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 04:46 PM
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May I suggest . . . since I do not believe, even after 77 posts in this thread, that one or more shops pulled enough stuff to verify a bearing problem that you just pull the valve covers and confirm that you just do not have a tensioner/chain/timing problem. I assume the car is not running anyway.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by test point
May I suggest . . . since I do not believe, even after 77 posts in this thread, that one or more shops pulled enough stuff to verify a bearing problem that you just pull the valve covers and confirm that you just do not have a tensioner/chain/timing problem. I assume the car is not running anyway.
Exactly - time to get a look. Take pictures. Remove the valve covers, and maybe the sump pan. At some point the car will be at your friend's who does engine swaps, once the damage is known we can stop suggesting things and get the job done.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 11:32 PM
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Chinny:
It's great to see so many postings on your car, and you've received so much good advice.

Time is of the essence for someone without a backup car. Yea, you could spend a day or two pulling the engine and taking it apart for analysis. Remember, Jag engine parts prices are absolutely outrageous.

The quickest, easiest and least expensive way is to purchase a used engine from a quality salvage yard and have it installed.

A quick look in car-parts.com (filtered by Northeast) indicates many, many 4.0 used engines available @ $2500-3500. Your best option would be to purchase a Jag engine with the lowest mileage possible--relative to cost. Also, make sure the engine has metal secondary tensioners, a metal impeller water pump and a warranty. Be sure to keep the old engine for parts (Throttle Body, etc.)

I really don't think that a Jag engine replacement would be that bad of a job for a professional mechanic--since it's a conventional rear wheel drive car.

Best of luck to you.
 
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