Make the tool?

http://www.speedview.co/wordpress/wp...8/pc280849.jpg

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Use 6 mm plate, drill, dremel, file, a length of box section, and a welder. Fits far better than a 2" socket as you're running around the lugs. Have used it 6 times and the record so far is properly jumping up and down on the end of a 4' box beam. Say 150 kg transient load on a 1.2 metre beam? 1800 Nm, or 1300 ft-lb...


I would not fit a S/H upright. Front wheelbearings last maybe 60k miles on a supercharged car before they begin to get loose - and all used ones will be well used.


Have just done a refresh on an '02 where all was replaced:

http://gallery.cosic.org.uk/upload/2...5-9258789f.jpg

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I would recommend that you do:

ALL of the front suspension bushes and balljoints, roll bar/sway bar bushes and droplinks, front wheelbearings, track rod ends.

On the rear I'd definitely do the lower wishbone outer pivot bearings, the rear shock absorber lower spherical bearings, and the large bushes at the front of the rear subframe. Optionally, all the monostrut bushes and the lower wishbone inner bushes. Wouldn't bother with rear wheelbearings, driveshaft UJs, or diff bearings as they rarely give any trouble and they're a pain in the butt. Sway bar bushings too, if fitted.

Try this before condemning the shock absorbers - the parts are dirt cheap and this will tighten up even the most terrifying feeling vehicle. If you really must, the front dampers are easy to change at a later date, and even the rears aren't that bad to do.

Decent set of tyres; decent suspension geometry setup; enjoy!

Why oh why did you have to show me those pictures of the suspension all nice and new...maaannnn

One of the part outs has new wheel bearings so I think I'm going that route for now.

Still waiting on a member to answer me about those new shocks (hint hint) :)

I can get them in at the same time if they both ship the parts soon. :icon_idea1:

Once I get this major stuff out of the way I will be doing the rest like the pictures you've posted.


I love this thing already, as well as this forum!. :p

BRILLIANT!

A superb piece of applied logic.

Graham

I will probably eventually make that tool but to mess around today I took a grinder the stub on the ABS ring to fit a 32mm 12 point socket.

Well, thanks to an awesome member i got an entire knuckle on the way with a new wheel bearing in it... so while i'm waiting on that to show up the supercharger belt and tensioner/idler pulleys came in.... only i have a problem....

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Both the pulleys the seller sent me are smooth, isn't the updated version supposed to have grooves/ribs on the idler now?? and with that the belt appears to be the stock jag belt that's only ribbed on one side...

What do I do here? Ask for the ribbed tesioner pulley and continue as the stock routing??

Also.. both bolts are longer and i don't feel comfortable using the tensioner one... it get's tight before it even gets to the pulley.....

oh well, send them back and do as I do and replace the bearings instead, cost about $20 instead of $200 and takes less than an hour...I've posted part numbers for the bearings if you do a search...(it's a genuine 'refresh') :)

My tensioner bearing seems good, I'm probably just going to bolt my old ribbed pulley to the new tensioner, I want to remove the bearing out of the newer smooth pulley but the stock one seems "beefier"

Atleast that is the only set-back with this kit, still dissipointed though, even if I did save money winning it on ebay :)

Well, after getting it back together today I was welcomed with a P0332 Bank 2 Knock sensor code, cleared it.. comes back.... I thought it was the plug change but the car runs great with them in there, the only other thing I can think of is I got a little water in the plug after the detail...

I can't get JTIS to work on this comp and my laptop is down... does someone have a link to changing these on a supercharged car? or any tips... TIA

It's a rather bigger job than N/A cars, you need to remove the supercharger. I don't think there's a how-to on the board, but might be in the XK8/R forum. Maybe search for supercharger r and r - then it's just a case of changing the offending sensor.

I think shes alive and knows i'm replacing stuff, trying to talk me into doing it all... it's possessed

Are the Non OEM sensors ok to use? they are a little cheaper...

Searched all of the online parts guys and found the knock sensors here: amazingsavingsautoparts.com

$55 bucks each, About 10 bucks lower than anywhere else.

They also had the Victor Reinz valve cover gasket set cheaper than anyone else ( even with discount codes ) So I picked that up as well. ($49.90)

Well.. got it all out...

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Now that I did that it looks like I have the newer cheaper knock sensors in there... ugh... I hope the ones that show up are correct......

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Jaguar could have cleaned up the wiring/setup back here a little...

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Taking suggestions on the best way to clean this puppy up....

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Taking the intercoolers off tomorrow to clean them out...

Thats it for now, need to find all the part numbers for the gaskets and hoses... where is the best place to do that??

Don't forget to change out the S/C oil while it's out.

Quick search is saying I can use the newer cheaper knock sensors without issue... hopefully I can catch them before it's sent out tomorrow and save some loot towards the gaskets I need.

JEPC (Jaguar Electronic Parts Catalogue) is available as a download if you look in the stickies.

If you are replacing the SC bearings, then the rotor cassette will need to come out. At that point you can hot tank the case, and have full access to clean the rotors.

I did, I tried.. isn't working on vista... guess it isn't my day. :(

JEPC is really only a website that sits on your hard drive. Permission problems?

Not permission problems just followed instructions to the T and it flashes the cmd screen real quick and thats it...

Can you run it in compatibility mode?