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So shortly after my recent post I continued to look through everything and come to find out, the crankshaft oil seal had broke when I installed the damper bolt and pulley on. One piece of the broken seal was stuck between the chain causing it to be stuck when turned. Any idea how that may have happened; what may cause it to come out of place and breaking? Or could it just be the obvious cause; me incorrectly installing it? Thanks.
It's irrelevant just how it happened... Needless to say just pull the balancer back off and remove the seal. I'd be prepared to pull that timing cover back off and install a new seal in it while it's on the bench. Just make sure that the seal is installed flush with the outside of the timing cover.
So I was able take out all the broken pieces and reinstalled a new one successfully. However, I didn't mention one very key thing that is of a great concern to me. One of the valve setup is missing 1 keeper and is running on only 1 locking down the spring. I kind of carelessly installed everything in like that and found the missing half of the keepers the following day. My question is: Can I run it safely with just that half of the keepers holding down the valve spring? Or Is tearing it down again the wiser action to take?" Thanks.
So after a long long while and being able to finally complete the work; we encountered an issue as we were trying to start her up. No start! I see "restricted performance" lit up on the cluster so ran a scan to find that the codes P1117 was stored and with P1637 pending. One is for the coolant temperature sensor which I've gotten before but the other I have not a clue of. I tried researching but not too sure what it can be. I only see it talking about possible ECM connection or malfunction. Where would I find that and how can I fix this. Have I messed up with the timing and ruined it to cause it to not start? I was confident everything was done correctly as I followed all the detailed instructions from the sources provided. Please help. Now I'm clueless of where to start. Thanks much in advance.
Thanks very much for the help. So I went ahead and double checked every thing to make sure it was properly installed and fitted ; come t0 find out, when I plugged in the main wiring harness (one that connects to all the coil packs) at the end of it from under the car (not sure what it plugs into but I took it off so I wouldn't break anything in the process), it didn't go in all the way to where it clicked. I believe there was no communication there so that was it. However, I had just tried starting her up again and she did start right up but died shortly after about 5 to 10 seconds. I tried starting again and it would start sometimes but not other times; time when it did start it dies again in about 5 seconds of so again. Time it doesn't, I can hear a clicking sound from right around the throttle body is at able it cranks. What could that be? Could it be I screwed the timing up or can we eliminate that as a possibilty yet at this point? Thanks again
I'm going to guess you have checked for codes again and didn't have any? If not do so and annotate them to see if they come back.
Have you checked you MAP sensor to be sure the vacuum and connector is plugged in? Its just behind the TB and the vacuum line comes up from underneath. This one is upside down for what your looking for and it is mounted on the firewall on an angle offset.
Also, check your MAF to be sure its plugged in and the intake tube is properly seated on both ends. If the MAF is not reading proper flow, it will tell the ECM to make adjustment and that will cause it to stall. A bad O2 may be possible, but you should (but not guaranteed to) have gotten a code yet. Be sure to check all your vacuum lines to verify nothing was improperly connected.
Let's see if starting it from the beginning will help clear things. Undo the battery and let it sit for at least 20 minutes and reconnect it. Then turn the key to the forward position to where the lights come on and the computer cycle checks the system, but don't start it....let the lights completely cycle then turn it off and try starting it.
Last edited by Highhorse; Oct 18, 2016 at 08:42 PM.
I finally got a chance to get back on the car and it is still throwing the same codes. The one for coolant temperature sensor high circuit is there as existing but the P01637 is one that is pending. All the things you've instructed to look at checked out ok and are correctly fitted as described. As I cranked it did not start and it backfired at the exhaust pipe. I'm clueless what to do and where to check at this point.
Originally Posted by Highhorse
I'm going to guess you have checked for codes again and didn't have any? If not do so and annotate them to see if they come back.
Have you checked you MAP sensor to be sure the vacuum and connector is plugged in? Its just behind the TB and the vacuum line comes up from underneath. This one is upside down for what your looking for and it is mounted on the firewall on an angle offset.
Also, check your MAF to be sure its plugged in and the intake tube is properly seated on both ends. If the MAF is not reading proper flow, it will tell the ECM to make adjustment and that will cause it to stall. A bad O2 may be possible, but you should (but not guaranteed to) have gotten a code yet. Be sure to check all your vacuum lines to verify nothing was improperly connected.
Let's see if starting it from the beginning will help clear things. Undo the battery and let it sit for at least 20 minutes and reconnect it. Then turn the key to the forward position to where the lights come on and the computer cycle checks the system, but don't start it....let the lights completely cycle then turn it off and try starting it.
