New to Jags
Often when the pump fails it will burn the sockets of the motor connector
Depending on where you measured the 2 megs it might be possible to clean up / repair the connector and get a tiny bit more service life out of the pump for an engine run
It is also recommended to change the relays as it will burn the power contacts inside the relay
there is the common issue of a long not used fuel pump being frozen from being able to rotate
By using a battery charger that puts out a higher voltage then 12.75 to charge the battery it can be used on the fuel pump to have more electromotive force to break it free
Worth a try
Odd that both pumps are like this condition although the # 2 could have failed first and not noticing it just the engine not performing fully
There is something I don;t have my head around and that is if the engine will not start after a point in time The ECU ( EMS ) will use the # 2 pump in the starting sequence
Depending on where you measured the 2 megs it might be possible to clean up / repair the connector and get a tiny bit more service life out of the pump for an engine run
It is also recommended to change the relays as it will burn the power contacts inside the relay
there is the common issue of a long not used fuel pump being frozen from being able to rotate
By using a battery charger that puts out a higher voltage then 12.75 to charge the battery it can be used on the fuel pump to have more electromotive force to break it free
Worth a try
Odd that both pumps are like this condition although the # 2 could have failed first and not noticing it just the engine not performing fully
There is something I don;t have my head around and that is if the engine will not start after a point in time The ECU ( EMS ) will use the # 2 pump in the starting sequence
this a supercharged engine correct? chances are both pumps are dead.
you can either remove the whole tank or do it the lazy way.
https://youtu.be/7xrgs1A7n9M
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Intank-Fuel-Pump-After-market-OEM-Direct-Replacement-plus-Install-Kit-E2157-/353124820878?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46 890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
you can either remove the whole tank or do it the lazy way.
https://youtu.be/7xrgs1A7n9M
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Intank-Fuel-Pump-After-market-OEM-Direct-Replacement-plus-Install-Kit-E2157-/353124820878?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46 890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Last edited by xalty; Apr 5, 2022 at 01:33 PM.
There’s now an unleaded 100 for aviation about to get certified. I have no idea what it will cost per gallon. See this item from AOPA. There’s been a great deal of work in recent years to get lead out of a gas. https://www.aopa.org/news-and-media/...m_medium=email
Tomorrow I am tackling removing the gas tank. The video that xsalty sent was interesting but I have two speakers in the back so i would sacrifice one of those if i cut out part of the panel. Removing the tank is probably more difficult but I have the time. Weather is nice and sky is clear so looks like a good time to take on the tank.
I gave the fuel pump replacement project a rest after failing to drain the tank. I'm ready to tackle the project aga in butI need to remove the 7 gallons or so of fuel in the tank before trying to slide the tank back to get at the pumps. The simplest way is to siphon and I have done that on other vehicles many times, but I am unable to get the siphon hose past the filler pipe connection at the tank. I suspect Jag has placed some sort of barrier there to prevent siphoning. In lieu of siphoning, what is the best way to remove fuel with both fuel pumps dead?.
If there’s only about 6-8 gallons left in the tank, I wouldn’t waste anymore time trying to siphon it out. If it was a full tank, that’s another story. Do not pull that tank out until you have both of the fuel lines disconnected from the bottom of the tank no matter how tempted you are. You’ll likely ruin both of those fuel pipes and then your in for some real fun. Gut everything in the trunk including the spare & tools, battery and all 3 wall and side carpeting. I highly recommend having at least one jack stand to help support the bottom of the tank after you slide it out. Get the hose clamps off & EXTREME CAUTION removing the hoses off of the blue plastic lid! A small flathead screwdriver to pry up the hose and some WD40 to lubricate the inside of the hose where it meets the blue lid to help slide it off and lots of patience is needed. Once the lid is off, you can siphon the rest of the fuel out.
6-8 gallons of gas will weigh close to 50 lbs. That, plus the weight of the tank will make removal more difficult. Since I am unable to drain the tank, I will need some sort of platform to support it. Using jack stands could work or perhaps I can use 2x4 and some plywood for a platform. I will need to support the tankif it needs to be removed. From the videos, it appears that the tank maybe doesn't have to be removed and just pulling it out enough to access the fuel pumps is sufficient. I need to be prepared. I have gutted the luggage compartment as you suggested, so now there is plenty of room so I can crawl in and keep things under control. I need the fuel line removal tool and then I am ready. There are several You Tube videos on this subject, I just need to go at it..
OK I do have a sender so Ill try that.
NEW TOPIC-- parts. Where is a good place to find replacement parts. I found some really inexpensive fuel pumps on Ebay but also found the OEM pumps at $300 each. Huge difference in price. I would like decent fuel pumps that will last. The ones on Ebay are probably Chinese for like $25. What do I really have to spend for decent parts and where is a good place to shop?
NEW TOPIC-- parts. Where is a good place to find replacement parts. I found some really inexpensive fuel pumps on Ebay but also found the OEM pumps at $300 each. Huge difference in price. I would like decent fuel pumps that will last. The ones on Ebay are probably Chinese for like $25. What do I really have to spend for decent parts and where is a good place to shop?
Can’t go wrong with Denso pumps. Amazon, Rockauto & Partsgeek are all good with me. You can get stuff from eBay too but, you just can’t be too careful with what you get. Get the socks and a new fuel filter as well.
Well I finally tackled the fuel pump replacement. A really good wrenching buddy of mine from Phoenix agreed to come help me and and he showed up earlier this week. we drained the fuel tank by disconnecting the line from the fuel filter and used a hand suction pump and it worked great. Removing the fuel lines was a filthy job but boraxo gets all the grease and oil off my arms. Both pumps were changed. The connector of the original pump was different than the new pump connector so I had to cut and splice the wiring harness. It took most of the day yesturdayto remove the tank but we got it done. Today we replaced the tank in 3 hrs. Since the vehicle had not been run in perhaps 10 years, I was pleased to see it fire right up. It was rough at first but smoothed out after 15 minutes or so. Test drive revealed the transmission to be surging and generally acting strange. Fluid may be low, but there is no dip stick so I will need to jack up the car front and back, level it and remove the fuel level plug. I probably should drop the pan, change the filter and replace the fluid. At least it is back running. My repair manual says the supercharger tranny uses 9.5 qts of Shell ATF3403-M115. Is that current or is there better fluid now?
Anyway, it has been a sucessfull project so far. I hope the tranny settles down.
I thank you all for the support I received..
Anyway, it has been a sucessfull project so far. I hope the tranny settles down.
I thank you all for the support I received..
I want to check the fluid level and condition. It was my understanding that there is a fluid level plug on the right side of the transmission, but ater spending sufficient time under the car with a good light, i am convinced there is no such plug to check the fluid level. The drain plug is clearly visible. The transmission has a matching VIN number on it, so it is original. There is a manufacturer's plate on it and it was made by Mercedes bearing the number 140. 271-26-01. There is a dip stick tube on the engine covered with a plastic cap, but no dip stcik is there. It seems to me that the only way I can do a fluid check is to obtain a dip stick. What do others do?
I want to check the fluid level and condition. It was my understanding that there is a fluid level plug on the right side of the transmission, but ater spending sufficient time under the car with a good light, i am convinced there is no such plug to check the fluid level. The drain plug is clearly visible. The transmission has a matching VIN number on it, so it is original. There is a manufacturer's plate on it and it was made by Mercedes bearing the number 140. 271-26-01. There is a dip stick tube on the engine covered with a plastic cap, but no dip stcik is there. It seems to me that the only way I can do a fluid check is to obtain a dip stick. What do others do?
now look at the throttle body and towards the passenger seat. there is a tube with black dipstick blanking cap that says MB dealer only or something similar
look up mb 722.6 dipstick tool
I have the new dipstick and it is very long, obviously not made specifically for this car. With the car running and up to temp, the dip stick shows about 1/8"of fluid just enough to cover the tip. I decided to add some fluid and see what effect it has. I added 8 oz and it brought the level up about 3/16" so now it sits at the bottom of the 25% range marks. Where should it be?







