Within the last couple of weeks I had 4 instances of no start with engine turning and ignition firing. It always happened after the car had been shut off with a warm engine, having been driven for some time.
I always managed to restart it. One time after I moved relays around, then that plus moving the shifter. As I didn‘t proceed very systematically and there were different cooling down periods involved I am not really shure what would be the best way to go on.
I have checked the mechanisms on the sides of the trans and didn‘t see anything unhinged or loose.
Strange thing is that the trunk light which normally isn‘t working lights up during the no start situations.
Car is a ´99 3.2 xj8.
Any ideas?
Thanks

 

Could be Bore Wash?... review this... http://www.jagrepair.com/NikasilNoSt...derWashing.htm
I would be more suspect of your battery terminals, ...is there any corrosion on them or the cables? If so, then you need to get the cable(s) replaced. If your battery isn't sending at least 12v through the system, or you'll not be getting a strong enough signal to start.
I've attached some pdf.'s for you to review also, ..to include a factory Hard Start and a layman's one Electrical Troubleshooting.

 

Thanks for the pdfs. I‘ll keep the no-start cross-reference in my glove compartment. Very helpful, especially if you have to get moving again fast, like I had at an airport. Don‘t think that it was bore wash though, as the engine had always been running for quite some time before refusimg to start.

 

Use the schraeder valve on the engine fuel rail to check the fuel pressure. It could be caused by a failing or weak fuel pump.

Below is the procedure for checking the fuel pressure.

 

 

Vapor lock is a possibility. Using the Schrader valve to relieve pressure may help.If that doesn't help, or there isn't any pressure in the fuel rail, turn the key to on and then off again several times to run the pump.

 

Thanks for your responses.
There is no pressure on the fuel rail and I wasn’t able to start the fuel pump. l have checked the fuses changed the relays and connected the slots of the fuel pump relay. So if you don‘t have any further idea I think it must be the pump. The car has run over 250000 km.
From what I have heard it is no easy job to change the fuel pump. As I have a car for spares I will probably try to change the whole tank unit.

 

Changing the whole tank is a...ahem...heavy task. All you need to do, ...said in a varied aspect..., is to slide the tank backward (I cut 2- 2x4's to size and slid it back on them, one mainly to traverse the spares well), after disconnecting the hosing and such and remove the assembly from on top. The first one is just to show the lock ring. The biggest PITA is removal of the fuel line connection (should be able to be done using standard fuel/AC disconnect tool, if not we can help)...absolutely by no means take any short cuts removing these or you can seriously regret it. Also, do not pull the tank until you have removed these lines or you can kink them and then your screwed.
Here's a link to the XJ-308 Workshop Manual... https://www.dropbox.com/s/vujkjrxklu...anual.pdf?dl=0

 

So I am finally through with replacing the fuel pump and want to leave you with some impressions and admonishons.
If you're not living in any dry and rust-free area, I would not use the parcel-shelf-cut-through-approach for one simple reason:
You might miss the very rotten state of the fuel lines coming out of the tank. Especially the one going to the filter. Also, if you have done it once, you can sever the fuel lines blindly. Just don't pull too hard and use the right size insertion ring (3/8").
Changing the fuel filter might be highly recommendable if your doing the pump, but it is very difficult to actually do the job if you're not willing to remove the exhaust and/or use special tools. The nuts are very tight the filter is behind the exhaust pipe and simple spanners just won't do it. You might end up just bending the fuel line and splintering the coating.
My feeling of success after severing the fuel line was somewhat muted after the valve didn't work and I had to deal with catching the outpouring fuel. So you don't just have to have the right storing facilities for whatever amount of fuel you have in the tank but also some buckets.
Siphoning the fuel through the filler neck didn`t work. I ended up using the top opening. The clamp ring can be loosened with the tank in place.
A nasty surprise was the coming off of the fat rubber grommet on the bottom of the tank by itself. it came off just by itself after it had stayed on during pushing in an shovin out of the tank. I. managed by using some fastening belts and pulling them once the tank was in place.
Regarding the change of the pump once the tank is out: Be carefull not to cut yourself. the edges of the tank sheets are razor sharp. You might also cut the isolation of the cable that goes down to the pump.
One final advice: test the pump before you reinstall the tank. Don't ask!

 

Well 13, never having been to Berlin, but having a friend who was stationed there, am I correct in stating its pretty much a swamp and the winters aren't particularly friendly? Very easy for corrosion of many different types to creep up on the fittings. I'm happy to hear you gave it a go and thus overcame those obstacles to resolve your issue.

I think I can guess what you mean by "testing" the pumps prior to install. My Corvette and I have had this conversation, though its pretty easy to change.