I normally use a cotton bud, dipped in Zippo lighter fluid, and rub both sides of the pins. You need some rubbing, just a spray will not remove a thin layer of oxide on the pins.

 

So I took the MAF out to re clean it. Even though I cleaned it back when I first started this thread. Also cleaned the MAF pins, and MAF socket as well. Let it dry. Got the car up to operating temp, 196°F. Shook/moved the MAF connector and wiring. No change in engine sound or RPM.

 

So what do you guys think? Delete the codes, see if they come back?

 

I think you should offset the rich condition by upgrading to a 2.5 lb pulley to try and lean it out!
😂😂

Ok ok, juuuust kidding!

With the engine fully up to temp at idle, transmission in park with A/C off, can you get a snapshot of the following:

MAF (in grams scale),
STFT on both banks (in percentage),
LTFT on both banks (in percentage),
TPS (in voltage scale),
PPS (in voltage scale).

 

I thought about "fixing it" that way lmao! I kinda do want to add the 1.5psi pulley since it's a straight swap, and do the 2.5 whenever the S/C has to come off.
Well I did delete the codes. Only cause nothing was acting up. But yes, I'll get a screenshot of that info with the car up to temp.

 

Car isn't stalling. I'm only bringing this up because when it threw the codes, it was shifting firmer than normal. In sport mode. I always keep it in sport mode. Since I bought it. And it has never shifted firm, unless you are at WOT. It will occasionally shift firmer than usual. Oddly, if I take it out of sport mode, part throttle shifts are not firm. They are normal. At the moment, there aren't any codes. But would the rich bank codes affect shift feel?

 

Seems I don't get TPS and PPS in voltage. I don't get PPS at all. I'll see if there's an update for my app. Maybe it'll have them. Anyways, I was installing the Mina intake tube with a BMC filter. Started the car, and got the codes for both banks rich again. Here are screen shots with a warm engine, park, ac off.

 

Definitely find out about the update so you can get the TPS & PPS voltage. Your STFT & LTFT look great. The only thing that I saw that didn’t look ‘potentially’ right was your MAF. In the first pic, the rpm’s at 652 and 4.91 g/s, then the third pic at 641 and 5.21 g/s. It’s not uncommon for them to be .00 - .03 g/s variance when engine is up to temp, with no sudden demand for load (a/c request, cooling fans kick on, etc), if I remember correctly, I believe at idle after about 10 or so seconds, that number should a bit lower. I have to run some errands today and I’ll see what those MAF numbers should be at idle.

As far as the occasional stall, I’m still thinking you may have a TPS issue even though there’s no codes. I’m pretty sure I’ve seen that at least a few times in all the years I’ve worked on jags.

 

Oh no, the car isn't stalling. That was when I first started this thread. New fuel pumps and fuel filter solved that. Could the higher MAF readings be due to the Mina gallery intake tube and BMC high flow filter? I installed the intake tube and filter yesterday, so I doubt it. Now, the only code present is Rich bank 2.

 

Ok, glad that stalling was resolved then.

When I did my errands and got done, I let it idle for about 2 minutes with no loads and it was about 5.10 g/s so I think your MAF numbers are safe.

2 things about the new intake. First, if you didn’t do it already right after putting the new intake on, clear the codes and perform a hard reset so the fuel trims are starting over.

Second, on more than one occasion I’ve had people install a brand new K&N air filter and after a bit of time, the fresh oil from the air filter coated the MAF sensor and of course ran poorly and thus a CEL was on. I know this isn’t on everybody’s car but I’ve seen it a lot.

Maybe clean/check your MAF at least once a month. Just food for thought.

 

Got it. Will do, thank you.
Loving the increased S/C whine and it really does pick up a bit better.