Starter issue?
#3
Last edited by edreddy; 07-26-2020 at 04:01 PM.
#4
Code P1111 means there are no current error codes detected by the engine control computer (ECC)
You cleared the codes, of which there were none, and so you reset the ECC and so now it has to complete a full recheck of the system, which is what the code P1000 indicates. Once it has completed a check of the system and found no error codes, which may take 100+ miles, it will then display the P1111 again.
You cleared the codes, of which there were none, and so you reset the ECC and so now it has to complete a full recheck of the system, which is what the code P1000 indicates. Once it has completed a check of the system and found no error codes, which may take 100+ miles, it will then display the P1111 again.
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edreddy (07-26-2020)
#5
The engine sounds to be turning to me, I think I would suspect a failing battery. The ECC likes to have full voltage from the battery (12.6volts or more) in order to start, check the voltage at your battery.
Also check the fuel pressure by removing the cap on the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and depressing the valve as you would on a bicycle tire, with the ignition on you should get a healthy spurt of gasoline out of the valve (have a clean rag handy).
Also check the fuel pressure by removing the cap on the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and depressing the valve as you would on a bicycle tire, with the ignition on you should get a healthy spurt of gasoline out of the valve (have a clean rag handy).
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edreddy (07-26-2020)
#6
The engine sounds to be turning to me, I think I would suspect a failing battery. The ECC likes to have full voltage from the battery (12.6volts or more) in order to start, check the voltage at your battery.
Also check the fuel pressure by removing the cap on the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and depressing the valve as you would on a bicycle tire, with the ignition on you should get a healthy spurt of gasoline out of the valve (have a clean rag handy).
Also check the fuel pressure by removing the cap on the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and depressing the valve as you would on a bicycle tire, with the ignition on you should get a healthy spurt of gasoline out of the valve (have a clean rag handy).
I almost had it started, but then it died. I’m suspecting it’s a fuel issue, and #1 suspect is the fuel pump.
#7
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#9
You should have fuel pressure with the engine off and the ignition on......I forget exactly what it should be, 42psi seems to ring a bell. And then with the engine running it should be around 38psi as I remember.
Harbor freight has a very economical fuel pressure gauge set for $25 bucks. (just $20 bucks if you use their 20% off coupons)
https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-i...ter-62623.html
But first..........did you check the voltage at your battery?
.
Harbor freight has a very economical fuel pressure gauge set for $25 bucks. (just $20 bucks if you use their 20% off coupons)
https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-i...ter-62623.html
But first..........did you check the voltage at your battery?
.
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edreddy (07-26-2020)
#10
Ok, it’s weird.
I changed out the relay (I have extras) and...... my brother in law was at the helm, we tried starting it a bit more, he made a comment about Marty McFly and starting the DeLorean, hit his head off the steering wheel in exasperation and... it started.
W.T.H.
Drove it around, filled up the gas tank, drove home. (Sigh)
I’m going to check the old relay. Thanks for the tips guys. Appreciate it.
Ed
I changed out the relay (I have extras) and...... my brother in law was at the helm, we tried starting it a bit more, he made a comment about Marty McFly and starting the DeLorean, hit his head off the steering wheel in exasperation and... it started.
W.T.H.
Drove it around, filled up the gas tank, drove home. (Sigh)
I’m going to check the old relay. Thanks for the tips guys. Appreciate it.
Ed
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