2000 VDP S/C 127k

About 2 wks ago I replaced my secondary tensioners and eliminated the chain noise on top. Almost immediately after I start up I noticed a ticking sound, first thoughts were 'timing chain guides'...dang I knew I should had done them to. Since I couldn't hear that before, I wasn't aware of it. I said ok, guess I get to do this again in detail now.
So I'm breaking it down and while rolling over the crank by hand to align to cam flats, I heard clicking. I peek over to the driver side tensioner as I rotate the crank and I see its the cam chain and new tensioner not playing well together. Its only seems to be clicking on a certain point(s) on the neoprene guide?
So:
...Are there any known issues with some of these new tensioners? The passenger side is nice and quiet.
...I didn't replace the cam chains, could that be the issue? (tension seems good)

I'm going to replace it anyway and the chains since I have others from the full kit, but this had me a bit miffed. I also thought it may be helpful knowledge for others if someone can answer this. Since I am in the middle of this project I cannot answer if my change outs worked yet. I won't have it running until Sat at the earliest. Waiting on a bearing for a pulley and the holiday is slowing the process.

Any responses are appreciated.....cheers

 

Did you "prime" the new tensioners prior to starting the engine....?
Are the tensioner retaining pins removed....?

 

Yes to pins, like I said, tension seems good, I have not read about any priming of the tensioners before? If there was a tension issue, wouldn't it click on all the links then?

I was rotating this by hand to align the cam flats for cam locking tool installation when it clicked...engine had not been run for 12 hrs.

 

No need to "prime AFAIK. It is just pressure!

 

By "prime" I meant turn the engine over for 30 seconds either with the fuel pump relay removed or throttle pedal hard to the floor, so the engine doesn't fire but creates oil pressure for the tensioners to, er, tension, prior to full ignition.
I understood this was standard practice, but I stand to be corrected....

 

It's standard practice, but the word 'prime' can be confusing. Some might think there was a method other than just turning the engine over while fuel injectors are disabled.

 

How bad were the old tensioners? Down to the metal? If so there is another recent thread that mensions tensioners worn to bare metal which ended up sharpening the chain which damaged the new tensioners.

 

I think the "priming" was needed before the new tensioner design which has the ratchet to keep the tensioner from collapsing with no pressure. I am pretty sure "priming" will not hurt anything if you are worried about it, though.

 

Two quick questions:

what is the status of the chain at the point it "clicks" on the driver's side?

You used the shorter bolts required for the metal tensioners?

 

Hey Jhartz, the clicking wound up being the neoprene cap being a little loose and I believe the old chains were stretched and allowing it to move (or caused it to). I put the new chains on and wound it a couple times by hand (at the crank) and it was very smooth and quiet. The new chains (as I mentioned prior) seem pretty tight once I replaced them....especially compared to the old ones. So the clicking may be subsided by the tighter chains. I'm going to ask my mechanic about that before I start it.
I haven't started the motor yet because I'm out of town for work and I'm going to pull the S/C to replace the hoses under it since the radiator fluid is out (I hate playing with radiator fluid) and they are original. I had to order them in (along with the short neck one on the back of the thermostat), so they'll be home when I get in.
As for the shorter bolts, yes, they were installed on the first go around.

 

Just a quick update, which should have been done about 2 wks ago. The new chains (and better tension) definitely took care of the clicking of the tensioner. As a matter of fact, with the new guides and primaries, the engine is super smooth and quiet and response is like new. My issue after install was a coolant leak I was chasing....wound up being the $20 water pump gasket. I wound up using a light bit of permatex around the port holes where it was weeping.

*I forgot to answer adam699, sorry, the neoprene had normal wear on the old tensioner, nothing excessive or worn through.

I should have measured the old and new chains before tossing them because there was so much slack compared to these new ones. I'm betting there had to be close to a 1/8" (3mm) difference unless the guides are that different? I say this because I was able to remove the old chains with the top cogs without initially removing the crank ones. But when reinstalling them, I had to move them simultaneously to get them in....and even then they were a bit tight to get on the guides.
So if your in doubt on your chains while doing your tensioners and yours seems similar to what I described, replace them (your there already). Take care y'all and thanks for the replies.

 

Thanks for the update information.

 

He changed the secondary tensioners. No oil pressure to build up there!