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I have the rear hub off of my 2001 XJR, just had wheel bearings replaced.
I am looking at posts about the "pivot bearings" but in all those pics it looks like you remove a washer / shim and the bearings are right there. When I look at mine it looks more like a rubber control arm bushing, kind of like on an older Porsche. The kind that you generally press or burn out.
Did the design change or am I just missing something obvious?
I think that's just the dust seal to the bearing. Googling the part no I read off from your picture (lm11900ea) comes up with tapered roller bearings as a result.
Yes, that's the grease seal that is part of the bearing assembly:
Here's a photo from SNG Barratt showing that the seal comes with the new bearing (shown with the cup or race covering the cone - in the photo above the race is still inside the hub carrier):
To remove the bearing, it's easiest to tap the pivot pin sleeve through from one end, and the bearing on the opposite end will come with it, so be ready to catch it in case it pops out. Once you get one bearing out, use the pivot pin sleeve to tap out the other bearing from the other side. The pivot pin sleeve is part 13 in this diagram from jaguarclassicparts.com:
BTW, the same bearing part numbers were used on all the XJ40s, X300s, X308s and X100s.
Thanks. Did not want to press it out without confirmation.
One more semi-related note. I removed the axle shaft and had new u-joints installed. The nuts holding axle shaft on the differential side have seen better days. Anyone know what size / type threads those are. I took to hardware store. Seems about 12mm but they did not seem to spin into anything. Could be that threads are deformed (they were smoking when impact wrench zipped them off).
I think they're SAE threads, the nuts themselves are 11/16. motorcarman might know, the sizing is coming from him as well.
Yes, they are SAE threads and the nuts are 11/16 in. Standard new axle nuts fit but they have a wrench size of 3/4 in. so there's even less clearance to get them on and off, but doable.
I just checked my records and the stud threads are 7/16 inch. I didn't record the pitch but it's a standard SAE thread.
On the left is an original nut that takes an 11/16 inch socket, and on the right is one of the new axle nuts I found at a local hardware store or Tractor Supply Co. for about $0.25 each several years ago. The only downside was that they take a 3/4 inch socket, and access is already limited by the mounting flange and U-joint yokes.
Just to confirm and expand upon what Bob mentioned earlier, the SNG Barratt listing states this same nut was used on the XK140, XK150, E-Type, Mk II, Mk IX, Mk VII, Mk X, S-Type (original), 420, XJ6 Series I-III, XJS, XJ40, X300, X308, X100, and several early Daimlers.
The basis of my "maybe not" was the following statement on the
linked page:
PART NO. NV607041 - (UNILLUSTRATED PARTS) PARTS
Part suitable for use in:
•XK8 Coupe/Convertible from (V) A30645
•Daimler Limousine
•XJ6 (2.9, 3.2, 3.6, 4.0) from (V)500001 to (V)667828
•XJ6 & XJ12 from (V)667829 to (V)708757
•XJ6 & XJ12 from (V)667829 to (V)708757 - Canada/USA
Likely an error on the page if it was indeed found by following
all the clicks after first selecting the correct vehicle.
Knowing this I said "maybe not" rather than just "not the right number".
I am trying to reinstall axle shaft. Both rear wherks are off the ground, tranny in neutral.
I can spin the other side with wheel easily. The axle side seems to get stuck about half way either direction. Using a pry bar but don't want to break anything. Can't install retaining nuts without being g able to turn it. Help!
I am trying to reinstall axle shaft. Both rear wherks are off the ground, tranny in neutral.
I can spin the other side with wheel easily. The axle side seems to get stuck about half way either direction. Using a pry bar but don't want to break anything. Can't install retaining nuts without being g able to turn it. Help!
Can you turn the driveshaft/propshaft to see if that frees up the axle movement?
Looks like something in the partially installed axle was binding up. Once I got one of the other nuts tightened all was good.
Everything is back together. All said, it was not too bad a job although I did have to let machine shop press hub from carrier. Worst part was the parking brake springs (I hate brake springs).
I had u-joints replaced just because axle was right there. Even painted the caliper red, it makes car go faster. Haha. Bearings, etc greased with redline synthetic.
I wonder if it is now an inevitabilty that other side will soon go as well?
Thanks for all the help given here.
Last edited by Amphicar770; Feb 8, 2017 at 04:55 PM.
Noise is gone. No play in the wheel at all. In my other post I show picture of failed bearing. Machine shop said it was pretty bad. Fortunately no apparent damage to hub or carrier.