Although not as hot as Arizona, heat humidity have been around 100* comfort index for last month. AC has not been as effective as before.

Recharged the system with AC Pro: somewhat better, but I am not able to get the refrigerant pressure as high as AC Pro suggests (between the lines).

Ran the diagnostics: get fault code 23. "Refrigerant pressure switch malfunction, harness/connector fault switch open/short circuit/refrigerant pressure low/ leak from damaged pipe or joint."

reset code: drove for a day; cooler, but not yet as good before. Rechecked diagnostic: 23 reset!

Here is the question which I would like some opinion before I buy a new pressure switch (~$105+ S&H).

When I pull the connector off the switch to check the wires and clean the connector, the male side of the switch and the female side of the connector are filled with a green fluid -- looks like compressor oil to me.

Does this mean the switch is leaking? Any other thoughts?

Thanks, in advance.

 

The green you see is the dye they add to the lube when filling, it's to show a leak, so yes its leaking and a new one along with a recharge should see it work correctly.

 

The Jaguar(Gaudin) dealer in Las Vegas (here in the states) will take 7 days to get a new switch: cancelled that order. PartsGeek (100 MILES AWAY IN RICHMOND, VA) will overnight for a few bucks more: went with that. EDIT: PART DUE IN BY UPS BY 1800 TODAY.

There is a Schaeder valve under the switch, right? Will the AC work if I pull the switch and recharge the system. Since my first post on this, the system stopping cooling all together. I am not seeing any leaks anywhere but at the switch.

Said another way: will the system cool (although without many controls) without the switch? EDIT: NEED THE SWITCH TO ACTIVATE THE COMPRESSOR; CAN'T RECHARGE WITHOUT THE COMPRESSOR.

Last question (for now): I am concerned about bending the pipe the switch sits on, any suggestions (looks like a 17mm fitting). EDIT: SWITCH CAME OFF EASILY.

And thank you for the quick response this morning (US EDT)

 

Installed new switch (OEM in Jaguar box). Ac runs, cools (for now); cleared the fault code 23. Recharged the system with fresh can of AC Pro. Turned it off; checked for codes: aw crap, 23 is back.

Pulled the connector off the new switch; it too has green gunk.

Baffled; pretty sure switch is good: compressor is running; even high speed fans running (first time I have noticed fans have a high speed).

Going to wait and see if it continues to cool correctly, before raising hell with Parts Geek.

 

Remove the connector and clean with contact cleaner. Reconnect clear the code and see what happens. The dye may have been left over from the failed switch. The dye will alter the electrical contact and may be causing resistance.

 

Tried that, no go. Cleaned both sides of switch: still leaking: new switch ( #2 ) in tomorrow.

Still showing sufficient low side pressure: but no cold air. Compressor cycling, but no cold. Will see what happens when second new switch shows tomorrow: att I think last switch was faulty, we'll know soon.

 

New switch arrived: cleaned the connector (for fourth time), plugged it in: AC could freeze meat. Still . . . . have code 23, even after clearing it three times.

Keeping fingers crossed that AC will keep working correctly. Once it got dark, ran around all fittings (less those inside the car) and piping with black light. Expected splatter around pressure switch and low side schraeder where it was being recharged; light amount of leaks at high side schaeder (tightened bolts), nothing else.

Will send the first new switch back to Parts Geek and test their 30 day warrenty.

Any suggestions?

 

FRUSTRATED

AC worked for five minutes with the new switch. And started turn hot, again. Cleaned both sides of the switch (connector and switch), and tried again. Still no cooling. Compressor seems to be cycling on and off too quickly.

Using the pressure gauge on the AC Pro can, shows high pressure (110#) on the low valve. Well into the red area on the gauge.

Somehow the switch is related -- just don't know how -- since with both new switches it immediately began blowing very cold air, if only for a short time. Examined all of the wiring, no breaks.

Guess I need to find a good AC guy (or a junk yard). What is really frustrating is how exceptional it is performing, otherwise.

 

Put a set of gauges on it (connected to both High and low side) to see what pressure you really have. Just one can of Freon will not be enough. Clean the area around both Schrader valves with brake cleaner and anywhere else that you soaw dye to see if there are any new leaks.

Check fuses for the unit itself.

Is the clutch for the compressor engaged? If so center of the clutch will be turning if the clutch is engaged.

 

Don't have a set of gauges: so, I bought new set of AC pro freon with new gauges, pressure rising to 140. Confirms high pressure on low side. As I offloaded pressure to empty cans, cooling returns . . .

Compressor (clutch) cycling on and off . .

Time to visit pros

 

UPDATE: now have three cans of Freon after discharging the very high pressure on the low port to empty cans. Drove the car for an hour, still cooling. Returned home and the pressure was still at 100 pounds. Released some more; getting colder.

May have screwed this up from the beginning: by over-pressurizing the system.