One more thing to check, very simple, there's a bracket to the center of the brake master cylinder attached to the firewall that appears to go from the firewall to the frame box section and the insulating bulkhead is attached to it. If those bolts come loose, it will make anything from an earthquake kind of slipping noise to a solid knocking noise that sounds like it coming from the front suspension in front of the driver when going over uneven pavement, particularly at low speeds depending how loose. Took me ages to track it down on mine as I kept going after suspension, engine mounts, etc. all the stuff you'd normally suspect. Not the easiest bolts to get a tool on to check, but the fix is free if that's what it is.

 

That's a great tip. Ill have to check that out! Thank you.

 

it seems to me its time to add the subframe mounts to the ordinary replacements list for cars this age if people leave the fuel filters to get as clogged as they due to location then those mount’s definitely need to be looked at the walking while steering i think is a clear indicator of this looks like ill be ordering some for myself i wonder if anyone has a part number to a good set for a good price but to be honest i feel the more expensive ones on this particular application might be worthwhile IMHO will be checking rockauto first i suppose not looking forward to this job especially as it gets colder out fml lol

 

Sub Frame mounts are only about $32 bucks plus shipping and could go a long way to
help eliminate some of your "clunks". ÜRO PARTS MJA2595AC

 

Its looking like im just going to have to drop the subframe and do it all at once. I've been trying to troubleshoot it for months, and I can't, for the life of me, find which bushing or balljoint is causing it, so I will probably have to resort to the "it can't clunk if it's all-new" method. Just not looking forward to it

 

Update: I have replaced the following and the drivers side clunk is still there.

• Swaybar bushings and links
• upper and lower control arm bushings
• upper and lower ball joints

I have inspected the tie rods and the subframe bushings and they both appear good. There are no unusual movements during hard braking and accelerating, Cornering feels a little mushy and vague but again I came from a tight and stiff hot hatch so this is likely normal.
I am left with a couple of ideas:

• The shock itself is bad and knocking. some online research of other Bilstien B4 shocks suggests that this can happen even to new or almost new shocks (mine are less than 10k miles)
• upper shock mounts (also less than 10k miles) are knocking even with no visible signs.
• Bad/loose engine mount
• subframe bushing(s) are actually bad but not visually noticeable in place and at worse feel a little mushy (again might be normal based on my previous car being a sharp hot hatch)

 

Check to see how much play the shock has. Other members have reported
excess play after installation of new shocks.

 

The hydraulic motor mounts can cause the same noises as the suspension when they are going bad and you might see a little puddle of liquid on the ground. When they get all the way too bad, they quit making noise.

 

I can't recommend a set of these highly enough for tracking down noises like this: https://steelmantools.com/products/w...tic-device-kit

They aren't cheap but will save you a lot of effort and parts costs in the long run.

 

I'd dearly love one of these but just can't justify the cost. Back in the day, they used to send small children up the chimneys over here. Maybe I could put a small child under the bonnet to pinpoint the squeaks and clunks.

 

Alright, I have an update: I did the subframe bushings and while that made a huge difference in the front end's sharpness and has made the car feel much more stable, the clunk is still there! So i decided to put a gopro in the engine compartment and watch the shock mount, and it turns out that the NEW Meyle shock mounts are clunking! upon closer inspection, I even found that the other side (which doesn't make noise...at least that I can notice) has its rubber splitting apart now ( it wasn't last I checked maybe a month ago ). I have some new ones on order and hopefully, this will finally fix it. What is so weird is that it looked fine and felt perfect in every situation but driving it. I could jump on the car, wiggle the shock, etc and it wouldn't make a peep but on video, its clear the bushing is far too soft which allows the two parts of the bushing to touch on sharp bumps.

Edit: Upon ordering the new parts I noticed that the bushing from new on the Meyle part should be a white/grey color and mine are yellow kind of like the URO parts ones. Maybe there are/were some knockoff ones circulating or something because its clear that these parts failed in less than 2500 miles from new.

I can also post the video if anyone is interested

 

You have a lot more patience than many I know. I certainly hope that fixes it.
I kind of thought that might be what it was.

 

Haha thanks! met too