There you go

 

Just passing by.

Jaguar Engine Repair Course Code 168. (9Mb)

HTH.

 

I would avoid the pry bar- you can also use a stronger chain wrench with an old belt around the pulley so as not to damage it. I used the starter bump method.

 

I have got the bolt loose for about 1 turn, then it tightened up again, anybody have any ideas.

 

200+K miles, keep trying? I had to use a 3-4 foot extender bar on my breaker bar to loosen it. BTW, the bolt and collar are single use, so the will need to be replaced.

 

If it came off the initial torque load on the bolt why would it tighten back up?
I'm thinking I need to use a puller to get the pully loose, and then retry the bolt.
Or try screwing in a little and then back out. More WD40 and praying!!

 

one word, threadlock

as dsnyder says keep going. Heat is a good way to break down the threadlock but keep in mind the rubber part of the damper pulley, I've used a small butane torch directly on the bolt head and a wet towel on the pulley, this is stage 2 work....gotta be accurate and keep testing the bolt

 

Sean, I called my old mechanic and that's exactly what he said, they used threadlock, and to apply heat. If It's a torque spec'ed fastener WHY did they do that, I hate thread lock, Loctite have so many different variations that don't lock the threads but provide anti vibration assistance and will allow a bolt to unscrew.

So another mechanic friend suggested spraying carb cleaner on the bolt as this might dissolve the threadlocker, so spray wait 5 minutes apply 6 point impact socket an a 24" breaker bar and the handle off my floor jack for a combined 44" of leverage (4" in the handle) it started to move, no drama no bang just slowly giving way to brute force.
I AM SO RELIEVED.

got the bolt out, how did this damage happen, on the end of the thread?



Onward to the cams.. I'M SO WORRIED

 

Relax- I PROMISE you the hard part is over. The rest is easy comparatively.

You may want to lap the valves at least if you are not going to take the heads to a shop. Also time consuming, but your Jag will thank you for it.

 

Because on my Supra it is the same and it *still* backed out causing a bad case of the wobbles. Caught it coming off just at the end of a 300 mile run. The bolt thread was almost completely sheared off and the bolt only finger tight.

BTW, without a impact wrench ... sometimes sudden heaves on the bar works a lot better than steady pressure. Especially on smaller fasteners in the range suited for a 3/8 square drive.

 

Update:
Fuel rails off, had to drill the head off the stupid torx bolt.
9 hours later the crank bolt and crank pully are off.
If it takes this long to get stuff off this thread will conclude in 2014...LOL

 

You are doing fine. It's not a small job. There is more time wasted on labeling/bagging everything, than the actual "wrench time". Just be carefull not to overdo your back! If your back goes out, it WILL be 2014 when the thread is closed.

 

Flat plane cranks are available for the AJ-V8....I'm hunting for one to go in a manual XKR...I've also got a flat plane crank TWR 7lt V12 engine that may go into an XJ coupe, if I can find a rust free example....

I digress, but the thread's about Jaguar engines, I love them.

Family member.....dry sump....

 

Roger, have you got it looking like this yet?

 

Would you need to change the camshafts when changing to a flat plane crank? The cam lobes will be in the position to open/close valves at the piston positions produced by a cross plane crank with 90 degree throws, rather than the piston positions produced by the 180 degree throws of a flat plane crank.

 

Rest assured that the re-assembly time will be MUCH quicker than the dismantling time. During dismantling, you've got to learn how to undo everything, deal with seized bolts etc & then clean everything.

When you put it all back together with clean parts, cleaned bolt threads & a knowledge of how everything now fits together, then the re-assembly will fly by...

When I did the head gaskets on my Bentley last year, it took me a full week before the first head came off as I was cleaning & storing everything on the way, then decoking the piston crowns & cylinder heads etc.

Re-assembly was easier & flew by in about 3 days for both heads...

 

Yep. I know the difference The ideal would be a complete 4.7 unit, but Douglas Valley wanted the same money I could buy an XKR for, so parts are being sought. I contacted a tremendous engineering company on the Wirral about custom cams, reground an profiled to the crank, just a case of working with a degree wheel to set-up. Might even be the cheaper option, and I can add my own dwell for the twin screw set-up, but I don't want to to give too much away...

 

That's the Stealth method-say nothing & just turn up at Santa Pod to blow everyone's doors off

Would be worth changing the diff too, as there's not much headroom in the standard unit.

I'm on the Wirral...

 

I'm after the ultimate R. Done LSD conversions on them too - you don't have to inform me of that... if you look back over the threads that you found this out...
I guess you'll get to know the level of knowledge I've gained with these cars at some point. There isn't a nut or bolt I've not considered. I enjoy sharing some of it

 

Be sure to share the dyno results & performance figures as well when you get it all done