Well, you got me fooled! Here I was (a total putz!) cheering and encouraging YOU, on this project!

 

not a master mechanic, Tearing into this engine is a very steep learning curve, Every nut and bolt I undo is sending shivers through me.
I've never got into a car this deep and engines are not my best subject.
I'm frightened that 1 screwup will render it a tow to specialist situation.
What I hope to get out of this is a better understanding of how it works and more confidence in working on my cars. (now I have a fully stocked garage)

 

"Tool and die maker, and a machinist". You WILL not break any bolts, you WILL not overtorque anything, you can work with taps and dies, lathes, and crap I CAN NOT. You have nothing to worry about. I've never been this deep into the car (was on the motorcycles) either. First time I had to dig in the bike, I had to rebuild a top end on the side of the road in Hungary, many moons ago, with just the tool kit supplied with the bike. The bike was a Yamaha RD350 (two stroke), so it was not a big deal.

Anyway,.....I wish I could be there, and participating. I always wanted to learn this.

 

Those are relatively new. Nice, but not a requirement.

The third pass specified by Jaguar is 90 degrees, so the angle does not even need a protractor. Even a sheet of letter paper is good enough to judge a right angle.

One of the sales points is that the same wrench can be used for torque and angle. But, since each pass involves multiple fasteners, there is no real advantage.

This is especially true for those who prefer to let the assembly "rest" between each pass.

The collective experience of the Supra crowd is that head gaskets benefit from retorquing due to "settling" or "crushing" over time. They also do not use the factory spec of 53 ft/lb. A group of owners who are mechanical engineers calculated a new spec of 75 ft/lb and that is the spec most owners use.

I recognise that the use of stretch bolts may mandate replacement as opposed to reuse.

 

+1

Consider that engine work is only the "final assembly" of "pre-machined" parts.

A dose of paranoia is a good thing. Remembering how hard it would be to get back to the same spot to redo the work with parts purchased a second time keeps you focussed on doing it right the first time.

The hardest part is the sequence of operations and where everything was. Hence, the baggies.

 

OK here is the parts list, I used partsgeek and cr051948 on ebay his name is Chris

Chris ebay parts geek
Gasket set 1 $349.00 $257.25
Crank seal 1 $29.75
W0133-1895189 Timing set 1 $559.25
HTK100 Timing Kit 1 $445.00
W0133-1786520 Head bolts 1 $165.00 set of 20 jaguar part #
5628-07075745 Head bolts 2 $34.25 set of 20 lincoln LS part #
W0133-1656874 Intake tract 1 $62.25
W0133-1655456 EGR gasket 3 $7.25
W0133-1637808 upper radiator hose 1 $14.25
W0133-1841258 tensioner bolt 4 $1.25
W0133-1821681 Exhaust gasket 2 $10.25
W0133-1629012 Water pump gasket 1 $19.29
W0133-1656772 Oilpan Bolt 1 $6.25

Total $1,046.29
Any suggestions on alternative source / pricing welcome does not include oil filters etc.

 

Roger a quick question about the cam 'buckets' as you guys call them, you did mark them individually from each valve didn't you?

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...-3-4-16925.jpg

The cylinder wall looks good apart from the vertical scores, what are they like, do they trap a fingernail?

For cleaning the faces of pistons and heads/valves a rotary wirebrush in an electrical drill makes it fast and easy, vacuum cleaner/airline to suck or blow the crud away...

I don't give a fig about supra engines, plums!

Roger is trained the English way, and as such using a sheet of paper when building these engines isn't by the book, neither are we at a stage when your all conquering zip tie method will work. Being hazy about retorque of cylinder bolts when plainly this can't happen without camshafts removed is another pointless suggestion - set 'em leave 'em.

For $50 a Teng angle torque makes it 100% and no errors, all torques even across the head, so no chance of doing this job again due to another leak...

 

Hi SeanB,
When I was turning the head over, I remembered reading they are ground per engine, and I stopped and turned the head back over and using a magnetic I pulled each one out and laid them out a paper and marked where they go.
Thank god for the forum knowledge.
Using a clean sheet of paper is funny, I am laying out all the parts on large sheets of clean newspaper (not printed on) will take photo's to show you, I'm trying to be organized.
The English guys will appreciate this, I'm a Yorkshireman by birth so finding cheap but good parts is close to my heart.(being organized is not my best trait, but I'm working on it.

 

At lest my other car has a V8 designed by Ford and not a Japanese straight six (Supra)
Fire extinguisher is waiting for flames. LOL

 

You may have a case of the nasties ...

... but I was expressing my *opinion* that the new fangled "angle" torque wrench you mention is not a necessity as you state but instead a convenience. Torquing by angle existed well before the introduction of the new angle wrenches. A new sheet of letter paper is almost certainly a right angle at any two adjacent sides. It can also be conveniently used to measure 45 degree angles with a single fold.

Further, I was *asking* a question of Roger as to the location of the head bolts. I did not tell him to retorque the head bolts. I mentioned the Supra engine to explain *my* desire to explore retorquing.

As for the question of the zip tie method, that was in the context of a much earlier part of the thread to point out that the relationships could be maintained in much the same manner. In other words, that the concept was extensible. A number of sensible caveats were included with the information. Further, the information was directed at an experienced machinist, not some novice.

Finally, despite your apparent belief to the contrary ... your way is not the only way.

 

C'mon Guys! We're all friends here. Relaying the opinions, and/or information via typed posts, is VERY hard (I got in a hot water many times by texting with my wife, and that's a woman I sleep with every night!). Some opinions just don't come accross very clear when one tries to express himself in this manner.

Many a time my posts were misunderstood (they made a PERFECT sense to me as I was typing, and someone didn't get it!).

As all of you know, ....."There is more than one way to skin the Cat!" And this one is already skinned. Let's see her happily purring again. We can all offer "opinions" and "suggestions",....it's up to Roger which opinion/advice to take, and how to do it. We are all in "his garage" right now, watching from the distance. Not everyone will agree on what's the right procedure.

My advice: "Slow and steady. No shortcuts, and the German/**** organization of the workplace."

 

First off i would like to congratulate you on taking on this task of pulling the heads off! it really gives me the confidence that i could change the chain and tensioners in time when i get the funds after i rebuild my transmission.

Keep up that great work, and its nice to be a new member here and first time Jag owner and see all the support that is offered here! it really gives new owners like me confidence that it's not as bad owning a Jag like people make it seem....

dont mean to intrude But

Being on the topic of this Restore engine treatment, is it safe to Use This Engine Restore on my 1998 Jaguar XJ8L V8 4.0 with the Nikasil Engine?? i have to replace the valve cover gaskets im planning to do that after i try this Engine restore. AFTER i get the confirmation it is safe to use on the Nikasil Engine.
Thanks guys!
Cheers

 

@ plums, dude, I should have put a smiley at the end of my post.....addressing your suggestions, sure, it's not 'my' method, it's the manufacturers! would have thought you knew I am a stickler for following factory procedure. Nasty, there'd be no guessing there and a ban!

Jaguar use torque angle on critical bolts, that's all, any other way introduces tolerance difference across the head.

We want this expensive and time consuming job done right don't we?

I'll let Roger answer 98JagXJ8L's question, never used it...

 

RESTORE oil treatment.
In my opinion it helped my compression enough that a weak head gasket that had an assembly problem (damaged head gasket) fail.
Now the engine did have a little blow-by and a lot of miles on it (203K)
It could be a coincidence also.
When and if I ever get this back together I am going this route unless someone can disagree.
Run diesel oil with new filter for 500 miles to clean out (better detergents)
Change oil and filter to 5W-30 Castrol for 1000 miles
Change oil and filter to 5W-30 Castrol and change at 3000 miles as usual.
I will use RESTORE when I start adding 5W-30 but not with the diesel oil.
Opinions anyone?

 

Being cheap, I'll use a piece of paper. I already borrowed a torque wrench from my buddy to save buying one.
The BIG question and maybe Sean can answer this, should I use washers on the headbolts.
The lincoln comes with washers, mine did not and knowing a little bit about engineering, the stick we are experiencing on unbolting could be the bolt is torqued onto an alumin(i)um surface, if I use a washer it would be steel on steel which would reduce the "stickion"

 

That's a lot of stuff to get to the heads.

My poor kitty.

 

I would totaly agree with this,......but I've been a sucker for Castrol, for many years. I run synthetic blend 5-30, changed every 5K.

 

Roger- I commend you on your organization (organisation?) and incredibly clean garage.

 

If the bolts are similar length to the original, bin the washers. If they take in to account the depth, why not use them? (You'll need the correct thread depth for torque setting)
Have you a hydraulics specialist close? Maybe get them injectors cleaned while out? new seals. Nice.

 

New seals for sure, In AZ there are very few specialists, Does anyone know of a place in LA, I go there every 2 weeks.
The rest of my man cave for Dsnyder....

Yes it is airconditioned... its AZ

My newest addition, a parts washer.