Greetings all ! Long time I have been on the forum. So I'm back with a topic I raised already before, but while I thought I found the symptoms, it doesn't appear to be the case. A quick rewind: When bought the car 4 years ago now, I had a restricted performance show up, which after reading the code referred me to knocking on Bank A. I replaced the knock sensor then, and drove happy ever after, up to maybe a year ago or so. The restricted performance started appearing again, and same Bank A knocking code. Very seldom though, and, apparently, only after heavy rain! Because my gas filling area did fill with water (which I eventually found out from clogged drainage), my thought was water somehow got into the tank and reason for the knocking. OK, well, more recently, this doesn't really prove true anymore. I have the restricted performance come on at idle (regardless of weather), but would disappear when driving (sometimes takes a few minutes though after taking off from red light for example). Before I fork out $140 for a new sensor (again), just wondering if any thoughts here.


Cheers!

 

Any stored OBD codes?

 

Since you have the same code, with the knock sensors still bolted in place, try unplugging both electrical connectors and criss cross the A bank electrical harness over to the B bank plug and obviously the same with the B bank electrical harness over to the A bank plug. If the exact same code comes back, it's either an issue with the plug itself or an ECM problem. If it comes back with a knock sensor for the other side, then the replaced sensor from a year ago may be bad again. If you can provide me the ohm resistance values from each of the knock sensors, I can tell you if they are still good or not.

However..... You could also perform a hard reset and see if the code reappears as well.

 

Knowing what code would sure help the diagnosis. There are several "knocking codes". Actually, there are 0 "knocking codes" but several referring to knock sensor failures

 

They don't like being wet (or torqued to the wrong value), in case you didn't know.

They're a sort of delicate microphone so acoustic coupling is critical.

 

Thank you all. So yes, code is always P0328 (Knock sensor 1, circuit high input). As far as I recall, that was the very same code I had ~4 years ago when I decided to replace the sensor. A swap of the sensors is indeed something that I am contemplating for testing. I have indeed used correct torque to install replacement sensor, back then. Keep the good advices coming and I shall keep you posted ! :-)


Cheers

 

Well, I would say the sensor is bad or you have a wet or bad connector. Three years with no codes would indicate you fixed it back then, and you are the lucky winner and get to fix it again!

 

Greetings all. Update. Well I didn't get a chance to do tests such as swapping both knock sensors, but I went ahead an ordered a new sensor. Still only Bank 1 code (0328) so chances are high it's the sensor (again). Now.... when reading codes today, I got some new ones... 0172, 0175, 1642 (on top of 0328). I know the 172/175 is 'too rich' mixture. I will need to clean the MAFS as first test. I have cleared issues in the past thanks to that simple test. But what I don't know is if any relation with the 0328... I won't think so, but asking if anyone has any additional advise. Of course I could also have an aspiration somewhere (hose crack?). Driving fine nonetheless.


Cheers