Restricted Performance when Defrost and A/C is on
So I had the Restricted Performance and a Check Eng code for Misfire cyl #7 so its I change the plugs but it was the ignition coil #7 so changed that last month, when my mechanic told me the valve cover gaskets were leaking causing oil to get in, I said ok I will get the gaskets and spark plug seals. So last night after a 2 mile drive to walmart and coming back to the car I got in started it and it was operating temp so I turned on the DEF button and the defrost and a/c started and then Restricted Performance and CEL came on, but when I turned of the climate control right away, the misfire and restricted performance goes away but the CEL stays. Today I go out again and the windscreen gets foggy I turned on the DEF-A/C and It started misfiring and The Res-Performance comes on and when I turn off the climate control it goes away again...
Are your radiator fans working/plugged in? I think mine kicked up restricted performance when I left them unplugged and turned AC on, but it didn't do so if I had the fans unplugged and AC was not running...
Both radiator fans are working.
how is the charging system -- battery? The fans and AC compressor clutch could be dropping the volts enough to trip the warning.
I had a weak battery -- still strong enough to start the car -- but evidently not strong enough to maintain volts when the car was slowing down. The combination of low RPMs at the alternator and high draw with a few things running (lights/ AC/ etc) would be enough to throw the warnings.
I had a hard time believing it myself -- the car was not drivable. Restricted Performance -- Failsafe Engine -- all the nice ones. New battery and the car has driven perfectly for months -- couple thousand miles.
I had a weak battery -- still strong enough to start the car -- but evidently not strong enough to maintain volts when the car was slowing down. The combination of low RPMs at the alternator and high draw with a few things running (lights/ AC/ etc) would be enough to throw the warnings.
I had a hard time believing it myself -- the car was not drivable. Restricted Performance -- Failsafe Engine -- all the nice ones. New battery and the car has driven perfectly for months -- couple thousand miles.
how is the charging system -- battery? The fans and AC compressor clutch could be dropping the volts enough to trip the warning.
I had a weak battery -- still strong enough to start the car -- but evidently not strong enough to maintain volts when the car was slowing down. The combination of low RPMs at the alternator and high draw with a few things running (lights/ AC/ etc) would be enough to throw the warnings.
I had a hard time believing it myself -- the car was not drivable. Restricted Performance -- Failsafe Engine -- all the nice ones. New battery and the car has driven perfectly for months -- couple thousand miles.
I had a weak battery -- still strong enough to start the car -- but evidently not strong enough to maintain volts when the car was slowing down. The combination of low RPMs at the alternator and high draw with a few things running (lights/ AC/ etc) would be enough to throw the warnings.
I had a hard time believing it myself -- the car was not drivable. Restricted Performance -- Failsafe Engine -- all the nice ones. New battery and the car has driven perfectly for months -- couple thousand miles.
Not normally following the crowd shouting out 'battery', but in this case it should be the first suspect, especially after your remarks.
+1 another vote for weak battery
Let us know if you change it, charge the new one fully and still have the same fault.
Let us know if you change it, charge the new one fully and still have the same fault.
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Almost definitely battery or possible grounding issues. You can get a voltmeter that plugs into the cigarette lighter socket for 10 bucks on the internet, which could be a helpful way to follow voltage changes.
any quick way? should I get the battery tested? its going to be the 3rd time, and I know they are going to say it's a good battery...
Maybe a walmart or something will have one nearby? That probably won't help much to get your battery warrantied but it will be good to watch voltage as you're driving. Even with the alt running perfectly a bad battery will still bog the system down to the point where these kind of electrical symptoms pop up.. I'd try and argue further up the food chain if it's worth the time.
I've had the same thing with my other car, where the battery would test as good or they'd tell me it only "needs charged" when it wasn't even able to start my car after it sat overnight. They managed to conveniently lose my past purchase info as well.. so I don't have much confidence in their warranty in general.
I've had the same thing with my other car, where the battery would test as good or they'd tell me it only "needs charged" when it wasn't even able to start my car after it sat overnight. They managed to conveniently lose my past purchase info as well.. so I don't have much confidence in their warranty in general.
Maybe a walmart or something will have one nearby? That probably won't help much to get your battery warrantied but it will be good to watch voltage as you're driving. Even with the alt running perfectly a bad battery will still bog the system down to the point where these kind of electrical symptoms pop up.. I'd try and argue further up the food chain if it's worth the time.
I've had the same thing with my other car, where the battery would test as good or they'd tell me it only "needs charged" when it wasn't even able to start my car after it sat overnight. They managed to conveniently lose my past purchase info as well.. so I don't have much confidence in their warranty in general.
I've had the same thing with my other car, where the battery would test as good or they'd tell me it only "needs charged" when it wasn't even able to start my car after it sat overnight. They managed to conveniently lose my past purchase info as well.. so I don't have much confidence in their warranty in general.
Called Advanced Auto Headquarters in Virginia. A 25 min phone call, they said I was right and I should receive a new battery and they said go and pick it out for free under my warranty. They called the advanced in my town. The manager at my Advanced Auto was a bit pissed. But hey it did say the battery needed a recharge and they never charged it or gave me a battery. Their loss.
Now my Jag has a H8-AGM Platinum battery
Now my Jag has a H8-AGM Platinum battery
Last edited by omgimali; Jan 6, 2017 at 07:39 PM. Reason: Grammer
Nice! Think it's the same one I have, I put whatever AGM that advanced's site suggested for me. Found some big coupon codes which dropped the price to below that of the cheap battery, so it was a no brainer.
At the end of it all, did a new battery fix the original restricted performance issue?
At the end of it all, did a new battery fix the original restricted performance issue?
Nice! Think it's the same one I have, I put whatever AGM that advanced's site suggested for me. Found some big coupon codes which dropped the price to below that of the cheap battery, so it was a no brainer.
At the end of it all, did a new battery fix the original restricted performance issue?
At the end of it all, did a new battery fix the original restricted performance issue?
Ok so today I was driving and the windows were fogging up so i press the DEF button as it also turns on the A/C and a minute later I had the Restricted Performance, I turned the climate control off, but it was very difficult going uphill and you can feel and hear the car missing like crazy. just changed the spark plugs a month ago and have correct gapping. and changed coil pack #7, oil is leaking to valve cover and going in spark plugs. oh and brand new battery.
I thought you replaced the cam cover gaskets and seals. If so, it sounds like the covers are warped or were not torqued correctly. Oil in the plug wells can cause arcing and misfire.








