Hiya, new to the forum. Howyadoin?

So I got an xjr from the scrapyard recently. Ran and drove it home, though it had several alignment and suspension issues as well as a taco'd radiator.

I've got everything addressed to make it run and drive alright. Last night I went to install some larger tires. I had to put it in neutral at one point to roll it around a bit, but everything seemed to go well. A little trimming here and there. I flattened a few seams in the wheel well with a ball peen to keep things from rubbing. Now, it wont start....

With the battery hooked up and keys out of the ignition, the dash lights up. Several faults scroll through the info screen. Aside from trunk open, door open, I also get asc not available, suspension fault, low brake fluid, transmission fault, incorrect part fitted, electrical fault. When I depress the brakes, the dash goes dark. With brake depressed and ignition turned on, the dash lights back up and goes through system check, but still has the same faults and will not crank the engine. It also will not communicate with my obd2 scanner, which it previously had no issues connecting with.

I've looks all over the areas I was working for any damaged wires and found none. All 350 fuses checked out alright. I unplugged and contact cleaned all the connections and noticed no change when I hooked the battery back up.

There is no jaguar dealership within 500 miles of here. So I'm either going to figure this out here in my garage or it's going back to the scrapyard.

This may or may not be related, but I was having intermediate transmission fault and "reduced performance" in the past that always cleared with a simple turn off, turn on of the ignition. Also recently the drivers door switches (mirror adjustment, windows) stopped working correctly.

So what say you? Any insight would be greatly appreciated. I'm more of a toyota guy...

 

By it not communicating with a OBD 2 reader there is a small 10 amp fuse that is shared with the fuel pump relay " control " . This one fuse must have the king relay in the corner of the fuse box close

This is your trunk fuse box

Secret fuse # 16 left heelboard fuse box




To test this fuse box relay have key in run and remove the corner relay ( labeled ignition positive ) and feel for click

In the starting sequence the # 1 fuel pump will only come on for 3 seconds then off

Fuel pressure is trapped in the fuel lines

When the CKPS sees engine rotation the pump will come on for the duration of your drive , safety design

So 3 clicks with your finger on it On - Off - On

You can jumper the # 1 fuel pump relay between socket 3 and 5

This will drain your battery with keys in pocket

The # 2 does not come on until 4000 RPM and drops out passing down through and at 3200 RPM

For a 2000 you should have a AJ27 engine that does have steal piston sleeves solving somewhat the bore wash condition you can put your engine into




Pics coming

There is a battery cable terminal in the engine referred to as the false bulkhead a X308 owner would know about

Do not overtighten the battery positive post bolt

There is a specific fuel injector relay to power the fuel injectors to open

For a full car power distribution test do the same key on ( engine not running ) and remove the king relay in the corner of the fuse boxes and feel for click , with the exception of trunk and maybe one other

I think there are 3 total to pull on the X308

 

I'll be on station and operationally ready for questions

 

Never install battery in backwards , positive post fwd , recoverable

Ask me how I know ...............................twice

 

Thanks so much for the meaty reply.

I tried my best interpretation of your instruction, but didn't feel a click. I am willing to admit, however, that I may not fully understand the direction.

I get power to the obd2 port, enough to power my scanner, but it's just not talking.

Battery installed correctly, charged up, and tests fine.

 

If you’ve been beating on all 4 wheel wells, it’s possible you made either one or more modules mad or you jostled some connections with a loose fitting.

Some things to do:
1) Go introduce yourself in the new member section as it’s mandatory.

2) Keep in mind that you rescued that car from a boneyard. Before you put too much time, effort and money into that car, it really needs a good shakedown. These cars don’t like to be remotely overheated.

3) Perform a hard reset. Remove negative battery terminal FIRST then remove the positive battery terminal SECOND and put both cables together for 15 seconds at least to reset the modules in the car. Reinstall positive battery terminal FIRST then reinstall the negative battery terminal SECOND.

4) “Low brake fluid and incorrect part fitted”. If after a hard reset doesn’t net you positive results, it’s possible that the ABS module needs both electrical connections removed and reinstalled. It’s not uncommon that an ABS module goes bad. Don’t just go hunting down an ABS module just yet. Check the grounds in close proximity and clean them up.

You might need to remove the drivers side valve cover and check to see if you have updated aluminum secondary timing chain tensioners. If one side has it, it’s likely (but NOT guaranteed) that the other side has it.

How many miles on the car?

 

This is a later model as the X350 , X358 has aluminum body and not many made

 

There is a test for both radiator fans

 

Introductions made.

I understand scrapyard stuff. I have invested very little in this thing so far. I've put probably 200 miles on it since bringing it home. I got it driving straight then basically hit the back roads. Gravel, dirt, hills, potholes. It did fairly well and had no check engine lights. Last night was me just spooning in some larger tires I got off Marketplace. I had to trim the back fender a bit and I had to hammer back the seam along the front edge of the rocker panels. I checked all the wires in that area and didn't see any damage. All pins felt seated. I even used some aerosol contact cleaner. No change.

30 second hard reset made no change. Dash board immediately lights up with the key in my pocket and runs through the previously mentioned warning messages.

I'll look over the abs **** right now. This kind of feels like a bad ground situation. But what the hell do I know. It also won't go into Neutral unless I press the emergency gear selector bypass button in the shifter console.

The tensioner is the first thing on my "committed" list. I tried contacting the jaguar dealership nearby where this car came from to see if they had any service records for this vehicle, but they consistently failed to return my calls. So... yeah. I don't see how this would effect the sudden wonky *** electrical stuff.

130k

 

The gear selector lock is a solenoid , and 2 fuses # 5 and # 7 left heelboard fuse box and I think it is controlled by the brake switch ( the brake switch is 2 switches in one assembly , other things brake switch controls are cruise control and anti lock brakes )

The ABS light may not go out until car past 12.5 mph , it won't come on until 3 faults logged

You will see the tail lights and shift lock is the same pin 1 and pin 4 of the brake switch so shared

Your tail lights " could " still work , but do check

See page 109 of the 2000 wiring guide

X300 00/E COVER




You can see this brake switch go to ground / depressed on pin 2 Orange / Green wire color page 110 of the brake module , this will be the pin 1 and pin 4 half of the brake switch pair

The hard reset procedure for the BPM is longer the better cable connection like over night , place towel over naked battery terminals or the neighbors dead cat

There may be a way to physically see if the tensioners have been done from those who have done it

 

You’re right, the tensioners won’t cause this but, I’m just trying to see what you might be up against.

As Parker stated, check the bulkhead connector on both sides.


It’s also highly suggested that you check the power lugs at each of the fuse boxes next. These are the ones under the hood fuse boxes. Just check to make sure they’re clean and tight.

Go to the heel board fuse boxes and trunk fuse box. While you’re at it, check the megafuses too. Remove the spare tire cover, on the forwardmost of the spare tire and just to the right is a black rectangular box that has 2 megafuses under the lids. Clean and tight those also. If any of those locations has corroded, or discolored due to heat, disconnect the battery again and clean those up. If you still don’t have any luck, I’d recommend removing the instrument pack and body processor module so you can remove and reinstall the electrical connectors going to those modules. Micro-corrosion is a real thing.

Report back your findings.

 

Parker7, your link didnt work for me, but i have downloaded the huge shop manual and i have been referring to it often. A lot of the things that have gone faulty seem to be controlled by the "Body Processing Module". Is this what you're referring to as the "BPM"? I'll do the hard reset this evening after I've thrown in the towel. And placed it on the battery. Safety first.

Addicted2Boost, I've just addressed that false bulkhead lug. Looked good, but I gave it a good scotchbrite anyway. The mega fuses checked out and looked good. I've already started pulling the dash apart to start fiddling with the connectors.

What's a good approach for these connectors? Contact cleaner? Compressed air? Saliva? Dielectric grease?

 

The BPM is the body processor module and can be reset back to zero state , the logic steps get jumbled inside the BPM

The link was for your 2000 wiring guide and can be found here :

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

The starter has all of the enables ( security , Key position , trans position ect. ) summed up by the BPM

The BPM then provides a ground path to close the starter solenoid relay , this relay clicking splits the starter system in half with the enables the left half on the print

The starter solenoid relay can be bad ( swap with headlight of same stamped part # ) or jumper with medium gauge wire from socket 3 to 5 also

See page 100 of the wiring guide

X300 00/E COVER

 

I’m not against contact cleaner but, I’d use compressed air.

 

I think the OBD port has 2 power pins

see page 146 far right

fuse # 4 left heelboard fuse box and #10 right heelboard fuse box / have to double check , on one fuse the king relay for the fuse box must click closed

Someone on an inline 6 X300 model bent a pin over on his OBD port blowing the fuel pump relay control fuse ( shared on the X300 but now that I see it , not on the X308 )

corrected

 

No worries. I've got the rig unplugged and in hard reset for the evening. I'll get back at it tomorrow. Thank you very much for your help. You're on my christmas card list this year.

 

There is a large connector above the fuel tank as BT - 4

This connector is where the power sourced in the trunk fuse gets fwd to the BPM behind the glove box

Do not remove connector yet as can be a pain to reconnect without the caution of breaking an external lock over bar pin , it has a layer of through sheet metal that is cut out and can get in the way of fully closing breaking pin if your force it too hard

What you can do is ensure the tie wrap is on it holding the lock over bar on it

After resolving it if an issue would have to do hard reset as the bad electrons go reverse down this positive power path , start car first to see if needed

Still need to proof my previous post

 

Corrected post # 15 above

For a whole car power distribution test the king relays to pull on page 36 are

Engine Compartment relays and fuse box / ignition positive relay

Engine Management Relays / EMS relay

Left Heelboard relays and fuse box / ignition positive relay # 2

This also includes trunk Auxiliary Positive relay as controlled by ignition switch as relay powers some fuse box fuses

# 3 , 4 , and 5

on a separate note and try first , there is an inertia / crash switch ( kills engine and fuel pumps ) always located on the cars far right by the passenger's right foot that can act up , does not always reset by the rubber button , place a paper clip between the 2 white wires on the 3 wire connector

If you pull this switch apart spring loaded parts will fly everywhere , ask me how I know

This is a pic of someones right hand steering model , on the front wall

 

And there it is. A ****in kill switch. It worked. you know, i wondered if there was one. Briefly. Apparently not long enough to form a complete thought. ****.

I encountered this once on another project. Pulling the body of a Police Interceptor Crown Vic flipped a rollover switch that put the project on hold for an evening before it was discovered.

Would there be any reason I couldn't delete or bypass this switch to prevent future issues? Or I guess I could just remember that it's there...

 

You have reached the first level of being a Jaguar Man as you have ventured deep in your journey

Remember if you take it apart , parts will fly everywhere

If you source one from a salvage yard it may have already tripped and not resetable , there should be a new available from a different source or car make

This should be a new part but worth calling first

Xj 1998 - 2003 (from 812317 To F59525) (x308) Classic / Inertia Switch | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts

There is a new Jaguar parts source out of Ohio

Search


You can use the one you have and see how it works out and keep the little friend in the glove box , or just put a butt splice on the 2 white wires

The only thing you would be missing is the engine and fuel pump shutting off if you tap someone , wouldn't make your insurance person happy but I won't tell anybody if you don't tell anybody

This switch has nothing to do with the airbags blowing , nothing