Secondary tensioner replacement instructions???
#1
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Secondary tensioner replacement instructions???
Is there a link or can someone explain real quick the procedure for replacing the secondary cam chain tensioners, without removing the front cover. I'm going to pick new ones up from the dealer tomorrow night after work, was going to try to install them Sat. and button the thing back up. thanks
#2
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Location: Powell, Ohio U.S.A. 43065
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RE: Secondary tensioner replacement instructions???
If you search, you might find info posted by some people who claim to have done secondary tensioners without use of the required factory tools. Others have made the tools themselves. I belong to neither group.
You need the factory tool to locate the flexplate at its index position, which I believe is 45 degrees ATDC cyl. 1A. It is an oval shaped plug with flat sides that bolts in place of the crank position sensor, on the bottom of the bell housing flange on the engine.
You need the factory spanner wrench which engages with the holes on the exhaust camshaft sprocket. This tool is required to hold the sprocket while removingthe sprocket retaining bolt (96 ft. lbs.), and to hold the sprocket with the chain tensioned properly when refitting.
You need the factory camshaft alignment tool, which ensures that the flats on the camshafts are properly oriented.This tool is an aluminum block that bolts to the head,and locks the cams in their proper positionwhile you replace the tensioner and refit the secondary chain and exhaust cam sprocket on each bank.
You need a 10mm allen socket, about 4" long, with a ball drive end for the exhaust sprocket bolt. Alternatively, you can cut off a 1" length from a 10mm allen wrench and use it inside a 3/8" drive 10mm socket. The allen wrench sticks out of the socket by about 1/4" to engage with the socket head on the bolt. You read that here first, nobody else does it that way and it makes the job easier in a couple of ways.
You need two new bolts for securing each secondary tensioner, the upgraded tensioners require shorter ones.
You need cam cover gaskets and spark plug well seals of the correct style to suit your engine, there are two different versions. I don't know if the changepoint is listed by engine number or VIN number, but it was somewhere during '99 MY vehicles.
You need a tube of Permatex Ultra Grey sealer to lay a bead at the top and bottom on each bank, where the timing cover mates up to the cylinder head.
When you have all of that, then you need the rest of the procedure. It's probably posted on here already, one gentleman (I think it was brakebuster?) did a very nice job ofdocumenting his experiences. There are some outfits who might loan or rent the factory tools, the only one I can name from memory is Eurotoys Ltd. You can buy them from Motorcars or through your dealer.
I was told by an Exec in the JCNA that this is a $1200 job in Scottsdale, Az. I'm happy doingthe job for $750 total. If you can find an EXPERIENCED mechanic in your area to do the job for a fair price, you won't be much more out of pocket than if you purchase the required tools and parts yourself.
You need the factory tool to locate the flexplate at its index position, which I believe is 45 degrees ATDC cyl. 1A. It is an oval shaped plug with flat sides that bolts in place of the crank position sensor, on the bottom of the bell housing flange on the engine.
You need the factory spanner wrench which engages with the holes on the exhaust camshaft sprocket. This tool is required to hold the sprocket while removingthe sprocket retaining bolt (96 ft. lbs.), and to hold the sprocket with the chain tensioned properly when refitting.
You need the factory camshaft alignment tool, which ensures that the flats on the camshafts are properly oriented.This tool is an aluminum block that bolts to the head,and locks the cams in their proper positionwhile you replace the tensioner and refit the secondary chain and exhaust cam sprocket on each bank.
You need a 10mm allen socket, about 4" long, with a ball drive end for the exhaust sprocket bolt. Alternatively, you can cut off a 1" length from a 10mm allen wrench and use it inside a 3/8" drive 10mm socket. The allen wrench sticks out of the socket by about 1/4" to engage with the socket head on the bolt. You read that here first, nobody else does it that way and it makes the job easier in a couple of ways.
You need two new bolts for securing each secondary tensioner, the upgraded tensioners require shorter ones.
You need cam cover gaskets and spark plug well seals of the correct style to suit your engine, there are two different versions. I don't know if the changepoint is listed by engine number or VIN number, but it was somewhere during '99 MY vehicles.
You need a tube of Permatex Ultra Grey sealer to lay a bead at the top and bottom on each bank, where the timing cover mates up to the cylinder head.
When you have all of that, then you need the rest of the procedure. It's probably posted on here already, one gentleman (I think it was brakebuster?) did a very nice job ofdocumenting his experiences. There are some outfits who might loan or rent the factory tools, the only one I can name from memory is Eurotoys Ltd. You can buy them from Motorcars or through your dealer.
I was told by an Exec in the JCNA that this is a $1200 job in Scottsdale, Az. I'm happy doingthe job for $750 total. If you can find an EXPERIENCED mechanic in your area to do the job for a fair price, you won't be much more out of pocket than if you purchase the required tools and parts yourself.
#4
RE: Secondary tensioner replacement instructions???
If you do want to do the jobyourself, there is also a set of loaner tools available now from a bunch of enthousiasts, here is a link with some more info:
http://www.maxperformancecars.com/in...7&catid=11
Andre.
http://www.maxperformancecars.com/in...7&catid=11
Andre.
#5
RE: Secondary tensioner replacement instructions???
here is a link on this site to how i did mine myself
https://www.jaguarforums.com/m_44477/tm.htm
hope this helps
BB
just a quick note, the top gasket set changed with the introduction of the AJ27 version of the V8 engine, ( 4 wire coils - VVT on top of cam cover - electronic throttle body rather than vacuum etc )
https://www.jaguarforums.com/m_44477/tm.htm
hope this helps
BB
just a quick note, the top gasket set changed with the introduction of the AJ27 version of the V8 engine, ( 4 wire coils - VVT on top of cam cover - electronic throttle body rather than vacuum etc )
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