Some Slight Problems
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Hi, I'm new here, but excited to join the forum.
I have a 1999 XJ8L, and I have the following problems:
1. It uses coolant, but I don't think it is leaking out. I don't see it in the driveway or in the engine bay, and I don't smell it.
2. It takes a while to start up, and I have to give it gas when it finally does or it dies.
3. When first backing out of the driveway, the brake pedal is quite hard, and the power brakes don't work. Its like driving with Mechanical Brakes. But by the time I put it in drive the brakes work normally.
4. I get the "Restricted Performance" sign all the time, and the car has trouble shifting if I accelerate too quickly.
5. When sitting at the stoplight, before the car has warmed up, it bucks. It shakes like crazy.
6. When I press the gas I hear a rattling sound coming from the engine. It resembles the sound of a idling diesel engine.
Thanks for any input,
Duncan
I have a 1999 XJ8L, and I have the following problems:
1. It uses coolant, but I don't think it is leaking out. I don't see it in the driveway or in the engine bay, and I don't smell it.
2. It takes a while to start up, and I have to give it gas when it finally does or it dies.
3. When first backing out of the driveway, the brake pedal is quite hard, and the power brakes don't work. Its like driving with Mechanical Brakes. But by the time I put it in drive the brakes work normally.
4. I get the "Restricted Performance" sign all the time, and the car has trouble shifting if I accelerate too quickly.
5. When sitting at the stoplight, before the car has warmed up, it bucks. It shakes like crazy.
6. When I press the gas I hear a rattling sound coming from the engine. It resembles the sound of a idling diesel engine.
Thanks for any input,
Duncan
Try to fix the mas air flow sensor. It is by the airfilter box. Before you buy a new one for $125 spray the old one down with a electrical cleaner and clean the air filter. If there is an improvement then you may need a new sensor but will probably be able to drive with the old one if the cleaning really improved things. Take it to a mechanic to get a diagnosis. Don't know about the coolant loss. Check the oil. Is it white and foamy. Sure sign it is going into the engine. Brake issue sounds like a vacume issue which could cause your engine problems also. Check the brake fluid too.
Hello and welcome.
1. Check for coolant in the oil by inspecting the dipstick.
The conditions you have listed are indicative of a blown/leaking head gasket. The gasket will allow coolant to enter the crankcase or cylinders. It sounds like you are having to pump in extra fuel to overcome the coolant. The engine will shake because the compression is off in the cylinder(s) with the leak. Since the engine is not running properly, it is not creating enough vacuum to assist the brakes. This is probably why your brake pedal feels hard.
Even the smallest gasket leak can cause problems. Have a mechanic perform a cylinder compression check to verify. Good luck.
1. Check for coolant in the oil by inspecting the dipstick.
The conditions you have listed are indicative of a blown/leaking head gasket. The gasket will allow coolant to enter the crankcase or cylinders. It sounds like you are having to pump in extra fuel to overcome the coolant. The engine will shake because the compression is off in the cylinder(s) with the leak. Since the engine is not running properly, it is not creating enough vacuum to assist the brakes. This is probably why your brake pedal feels hard.
Even the smallest gasket leak can cause problems. Have a mechanic perform a cylinder compression check to verify. Good luck.
Most auto parts stores will read the check engine codes for free. Have that done and let us know what they report.
You describe several issues:
Coolant leak - rent a pressure tester from one of the auto parts stores. Pump it up and look for the leak(s). Also look for orange stains from dried coolant. Several common leak areas.
2 through 5 - sounds like a serious leak in the duct work before the throttle body. Inspect for cracks and/or separations. Remove the duct and inspect the bottom of the 'bellows' section for cracks. Common problem.
Rattle sounds like the the normal operation of the Variable Valve Timing (VVT) units. Common issue with higher miles. Solution is often to move up in oil weight. Try 10w40 or an oil additive such as 'Restore'.
You describe several issues:
Coolant leak - rent a pressure tester from one of the auto parts stores. Pump it up and look for the leak(s). Also look for orange stains from dried coolant. Several common leak areas.
2 through 5 - sounds like a serious leak in the duct work before the throttle body. Inspect for cracks and/or separations. Remove the duct and inspect the bottom of the 'bellows' section for cracks. Common problem.
Rattle sounds like the the normal operation of the Variable Valve Timing (VVT) units. Common issue with higher miles. Solution is often to move up in oil weight. Try 10w40 or an oil additive such as 'Restore'.
That's a hell of a lot more than "a little" bit of problems. I do know, however, that that "diesel" sound, like a purring, is from the suspension, not the engine. The ricketing at lights might be "Regular" petrol in the tank. That transmission slippage either means that it needs a new transmission, or that the engine is doing that (and also ruining the transmission).
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