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And I do apologize. But I couldn't find any answer on my searches. I have a 2002 xjr 100, 115k miles. I pulled the left side cam cover. It does have the 3rd gen tensioners and Morse primary timing chain. Is the 3rd gen timing stuff supposed to be 100% quiet on cold starts? Mine ticks loudest on cold starts, and gets quiet/pretty much goes away once warm. Oil level is full.
Side note. I had a 2002 xj sport before this, and it also had the Morse chain and 3rd gen timing components. Sounded exactly like this car. And I drove that car daily, except weekends, till I sold it.
My 1999 Super V8 does the same thing. The ticking on cold starts, which seems to come from the LH cam cover, completely disappears when the engine reaches 88C (I have installed a digital temp gauge). The ticking will also disappear (while it is still present, before the engine warms up) if I just slightly increase the rpm. Up to Just before 88C, the ticking sounds like it is coming from a pair of valves (sounds like two overlapping ticks), then one of the two ticks disappears and only one clear tick is heard which soon also gets quiet.
During my work on the engine last year, I replaced both heads with very good ones, new cam followers, ground and lapped all valves etc. and adjusted the valve clearances as best as I could (on the bench) but I got the ticking from the start and it is still there after a few thousand miles I have now done. I am going to check the valve clearances again in situ and re-adjust (I have the spec tool) and see if it eliminates the ticking.
I have also listened to the injectors (with a stethoscope) on the LH head and a couple of them seem to be louder then the others but I don't think the injectors can make this kind of fairly loud ticking. However, I have read that the Jag injectors can get a bit noisy after higher mileage so who knows, it might be the injectors.
I don't think it's uncommon for the A26/A27 engine to have a little valve "tick" when cold. Once warm it tends to disappear. Mine has it when I first start the car, and it gradually goes away over a few minutes as the engine warms up and metal parts expand. I find that changing the oil at regular intervals (3,500 miles) seems to help, and also a slightly higher viscosity oil (10w/40w) seems to help too.
In light of M. Stojanovic's account of his sparkling-clean engine ticking, I don't know if this is worth trying, but I have had good luck with engine oil detergent. My favorite product has been CD2, and it would almost always quiet noisy lifters. Unfortunately, it has been discontinued and sellers are asking high prices for the remaining bottles.
Rislone also makes oil additives for cleaning engine internals and I've been using them for the past year or so on engines that are gunked up internally, but I haven't had a good noisy lifter to test it on, so I can't say whether it is as effective as the old CD2. But for the low cost of a bottle, it might be worth adding one or two at your next oil change or top-up.
I will be very curious to hear what M. Stojanovic learns when he re-checks his valve clearances.
It will take some time before I redo my valve clearances as I am currently working on one of my other cars. I strongly suspect the ticking is to do with not so perfect valve clearance settings. Up to VIN 853935, the valve shims were in 0.02 mm increments (I thought that was already quite small as I had previously seen valve shim increments of 0.05 mm). Then, from VIN 853936, Jaguar went for even smaller increments of 0.015 mm. Why? Obviously, this is to enable very fine valve clearance setting. Otherwise, they will be ticking (my current speculation).
Mine makes the same noise, from what I can tell from the video. Same symptoms too, sounds like LH bank, only happens when cold, seems to come from the valves. Did my tensioners when I first got the car and that's a much different noise than failing tensioners. However, mine had failed primaries, not secondaries, for what it's worth. Following to see if getting the exact shims solves the issue.
Any ideas/input on the noise on start up? I don't mean to sound annoying. So if I am, move on. If I do need timing work, what all should I replace while there? I can only do the upper tensioners myself. So if I do need the whole kit, I'll be paying a Euro Indy shop.
I don't know what that momentary triple "knock" is at 18-21. I don't believe it is anything to do with the timing chains or tensioners, it seems too deep a sound. A sound that deep sounds like a crank bearing, but I doubt that is what yours is, you would hear it on override if it was that bad.
But, if you have not investigated to see if you have the later MKIII metal-type tensioners.......you should.
I don't like that momentary knock on startup. Is there any way I can eliminate the timing chains/tensioners out of the equation? I only ask because, I love this car. And two, I drive it to where you can hear the blower sing its song. Basically, I'll floor it about once per drive. Wouldn't want to make it worse than it is.
Spoke to an Indy Euro shop my dad and I use. For when we can't do the work, or don't have the time. They don't think it is timing system related. They think oil pump. But won't warranty that work.
Took the supercharger belt off yesterday. Started the car, no knock. Let it sit for 22 hours to be exact. Started it just now, s/c belt still off. No knock on startup. Thank the Lord. Have video to prove it. Will upload it to YouTube, and post here today.