Step-by-step guide to rotor/brake pad replacement(with pics) FAQ
#41
05-15-2012, 04:24 PM
Veteran Member
cleanup in aisle 3
#42
05-16-2012, 07:10 PM
#43
05-16-2012, 10:48 PM
Senior Member
Front Disc Brakes:
Torques - Vehicles with: Brembo Brakes
Component (Nm)
Brake Caliper retaining bolts 180
Bleed nipple 12-16
Union bolt - hose to caliper 22-26
Torques - Vehicles without: Brembo Brakes
Component (Nm)
Brake Caliper retaining bolts 140
Guide Pin - caliper housing to caliper carrier 25-30
Bleed nipple 4-6
Hose to front caliper - without seal 8-11
Hose to front caliper - with seal 10-15
Union Bolt - brake hose to caliper 30-40
Brake Tube, Hoses and Bracket Torques Replacement of nuts and bolts: Various thread-locking devices are used on nuts and bolts throughout the vehicle. These devices restrict the number of times a nut or bolt can be used. See section 100-00 for information.
Component (Nm)
M10 hose locknut 15-20
M10 brake tube female-nut 13-17
M10 brake tube male-nut 13-17
M12 brake tube male-nut 15-20
Bolt - 3-way tube connector to body 9-12
Rear Disc Brakes:
Torques - Vehicles With: Brembo Brakes
Component (Nm)
Brake Caliper retaining bolts 60
Bleed nipple 12-16
Union bolt - brake hose to caliper 22-26
Torques - Vehicles without: Brembo Brakes
Component (Nm)
Brake Caliper retaining bolts 60
Guide Pin - caliper housing to caliper carrier 25-30
Bleed nipple 8-11
Hose union to rear caliper - union bolt 30-40
Brake Tube, Hoses and Bracket Torques Replacement of nuts and bolts: Various thread-locking devices are used on nuts and bolts throughout the vehicle. These devices restrict the number of times a nut or bolt can be used. See section 100-00 for information.
Component (Nm)
M10 hose locknut 15-20
M10 brake tube female-nut 13-17
M10 brake tube male-nut 13-17
M12 brake tube male-nut 15-20
M18 bulkhead brake tube connector 22-28
Brake tube clip retention-bracket to body 4-6
Wheels:
Torque Specifications
Description Nm - lb/ft
Wheel retaining nuts 102 - 75
Conversions:
1 Nm = 0.737561 lbf-ft
1 lbf-ft = 1.35582 Nm
The following 5 users liked this post by mechelement:
convincor (09-27-2015),
davspear (03-12-2015),
JKo (05-20-2012),
Orthodixie (06-21-2017),
XK8+XJ8L (04-01-2014)
#44
05-18-2012, 08:35 PM
#45
08-31-2012, 05:08 AM
Thanks again for the writeup princemarko. I finally finished doing my brakes today. Didn't go quite as planned, but still. 
I had the parts (discs, pads, lines) laying in my garage for weeks, and before I found some time to work on them, I got the idea to paint the calibers silver 'cause they looked so rusty, and the calibers would have to come off anyway. Once I got the calibers off, I noticed that the Black Diamond steel braided brake lines that I had bought were not going to fit. Which meant that I had to use the old slightly cracked ones until I received the proper ones, and bleed the brakes again at that point.
I then proceeded to remove the rust from the calibers and paint them, and thought I'd remove the old brake discs before doing another layer of paint. They did not budge at all. Not one of them. Not even when tapped with a hammer.
I then decided to give up, and dug the old pads from the bin. No point in putting new pads on old rotors. I finished painting the calibers, and left them to dry overnight. Next morning I put everything back together with old rotors, old pads and old lines...
I got a refund from the shop that sold me the wrong brake lines, and ordered Goodridge steel braided lines. And I took the car to a local garage for a rotor swap. They said they had a hard time getting the old ones off. No surprise there. The new rotors are from Black Diamond. I've had good experiences with these before on road and track use, and they're not too expensive either. I wouldn't touch their brake pads though, speaking from experience here too.
Yesterday after work I got started with the new(est) brake lines, I just didn't realize how long it can take on jack stands... reaching the rear brake pipe connection requires some serious acrobatic skills. Something that would probably take 15 minutes on a lift took me like an hour. And on top of that I noticed a step too late that the rear brake lines are not identical left and right. Not the ones from Goodridge anyway. So it was a time for yet another undo-redo operation.
I had to leave brake bleeding for this morning, as it was getting late.
Well, now the brakes are done. Another thing that I didn't realize beforehand was that EBC Redstuff pads are actually red all around. Maybe I should've painted the calibers red...
I also fixed the front brake duct on the right side while I was in there. When I first started with the brakes I noticed that the duct flange was missing, and the duct itself was nowhere near where it should've been (maybe this caused the warped disc?). I had bought a used flange from eBay, and properly screwed the flanges in place on both sides. Both front brakes should have proper ventilation now.
I had the parts (discs, pads, lines) laying in my garage for weeks, and before I found some time to work on them, I got the idea to paint the calibers silver 'cause they looked so rusty, and the calibers would have to come off anyway. Once I got the calibers off, I noticed that the Black Diamond steel braided brake lines that I had bought were not going to fit. Which meant that I had to use the old slightly cracked ones until I received the proper ones, and bleed the brakes again at that point.
I then proceeded to remove the rust from the calibers and paint them, and thought I'd remove the old brake discs before doing another layer of paint. They did not budge at all. Not one of them. Not even when tapped with a hammer.
I then decided to give up, and dug the old pads from the bin. No point in putting new pads on old rotors. I finished painting the calibers, and left them to dry overnight. Next morning I put everything back together with old rotors, old pads and old lines...I got a refund from the shop that sold me the wrong brake lines, and ordered Goodridge steel braided lines. And I took the car to a local garage for a rotor swap. They said they had a hard time getting the old ones off. No surprise there. The new rotors are from Black Diamond. I've had good experiences with these before on road and track use, and they're not too expensive either. I wouldn't touch their brake pads though, speaking from experience here too.
Yesterday after work I got started with the new(est) brake lines, I just didn't realize how long it can take on jack stands... reaching the rear brake pipe connection requires some serious acrobatic skills. Something that would probably take 15 minutes on a lift took me like an hour. And on top of that I noticed a step too late that the rear brake lines are not identical left and right. Not the ones from Goodridge anyway. So it was a time for yet another undo-redo operation.
I had to leave brake bleeding for this morning, as it was getting late.Well, now the brakes are done. Another thing that I didn't realize beforehand was that EBC Redstuff pads are actually red all around. Maybe I should've painted the calibers red...
I also fixed the front brake duct on the right side while I was in there. When I first started with the brakes I noticed that the duct flange was missing, and the duct itself was nowhere near where it should've been (maybe this caused the warped disc?). I had bought a used flange from eBay, and properly screwed the flanges in place on both sides. Both front brakes should have proper ventilation now.
Last edited by JKo; 08-31-2012 at 05:13 AM.
#47
10-11-2012, 11:48 AM
Same for 2006 XJ8 VDP ?
Are the tools and procedure the same for a 2006 XJ8 VDP? I'll be replacing the front brakes shortly.
I believe I need a 7mm Allen wrench, 17mm socket for front brakes (15mm for rear). Has anyone tried an impact wrench on the 15mm bolts? I have an air compressor and tools, so I'll try this to loosen them (and torque wrench them back on of course).
Thanks in advance.
I believe I need a 7mm Allen wrench, 17mm socket for front brakes (15mm for rear). Has anyone tried an impact wrench on the 15mm bolts? I have an air compressor and tools, so I'll try this to loosen them (and torque wrench them back on of course).
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by 200Volts; 10-12-2012 at 12:45 PM.
#48
11-20-2012, 12:02 AM
Disc Italia...
...never heard of this company before and I've done a lot of brake jobs. Does anyone know how they compare to other makers? I've only ever used EBC on the Jag and I'm looking for options now that the discs are probably due for a change.
Colored discs might be a bit much, though:
Performance Brakes - Brake Pads, Brake Rotors and Brake Kits
And does anyone know about the chassis number referenced on the page?
"UP TO CHASIS # 037347 [305mm FRONT DISC]"
I've no idea what the diameter is for a stock 1997 non-Brembo front disc...
Colored discs might be a bit much, though:
Performance Brakes - Brake Pads, Brake Rotors and Brake Kits
And does anyone know about the chassis number referenced on the page?
"UP TO CHASIS # 037347 [305mm FRONT DISC]"
I've no idea what the diameter is for a stock 1997 non-Brembo front disc...
#49
11-20-2012, 08:51 PM
I never saw those, but I did find the holed rotors on ebay, bought a pair of rears for $87 shipped, and ceramic pads for $30, been working flawlessly, took off tires to clean abs sensors and looked at almost no wear at all on those rotors with holes in it.
--->2 Rear Powersport Drilled Slotted Disc Brake Rotors | eBay
--->2 Rear Powersport Drilled Slotted Disc Brake Rotors | eBay
#51
03-31-2013, 01:29 PM
#52
04-01-2013, 05:44 AM
Great tutorial.
Note for the 1998 XJ8's, there are 2 versions of the rear disc pads.
One has a larger spring clip that goes into the disc piston, and the other has a smaller clip size.
I am having a real hard time finding the small size.
Just trying to save some frustration for others.
Note for the 1998 XJ8's, there are 2 versions of the rear disc pads.
One has a larger spring clip that goes into the disc piston, and the other has a smaller clip size.
I am having a real hard time finding the small size.
Just trying to save some frustration for others.
Had the same opposite problem with my 2003. Still have the rear pads with the smaller 3 prong clip. Mine required that long one.
#53
04-02-2013, 11:36 AM
Great results
Just did the rotor/pad repair using red stuff (second time around) and some drilled & slotted rotors from Brakeworld.com.
I don't credit the drill holes or the slots for the results, but overall the switch to a new, non-stock rotor made an incredible difference in stopping power versus the last time I swapped pads using original OEM rotors. Much less pedal effort required.
Can't even imagine how much a set of Brembos must really grab.
I don't credit the drill holes or the slots for the results, but overall the switch to a new, non-stock rotor made an incredible difference in stopping power versus the last time I swapped pads using original OEM rotors. Much less pedal effort required.
Can't even imagine how much a set of Brembos must really grab.
#54
04-02-2013, 01:42 PM
#56
07-14-2013, 05:55 PM
Senior Member
Tools used: Ratchet, star key, 15mm & 17mm socket, flathead screwdriver, hammer, brake caliper clamp or c-clamp and a 2x4.
Installed Disc Italia Rotors and Pads on a 2003 Jaguar XJR 4.0 S/C(non-brembo)
Stats: Front rotors 21.5lbs(both oem and Disc Italia) 325mm
rear rotors 15lbs 305mm
1. Jack up your XJ, after securing it, remove tire exposing the brakes and rotor.
2. Remove tension spring holding the calipers in the front. I used a simple flathead screwdriver to just pop it off.
3. At the rear of the brake caliper, there are two "pillars" with black plastic caps covering them. Remove the caps, and proceed to loosen both screws, which are star orientated bolts, until they are roughly a half inch past the top of its pillar. (Note, on the rear brakes, the bottom bolt is a bit difficult to maneuver because of the brake fluid line, go slow and be careful not to strip it)
This is the torx bit(that I referred to as a star key), but the caliper pins are actually 7mm hex socket head bolts. Sometimes a torx bit can be forced in a hex head bolt, but the correct tool should be a 7mm allen key. Jaguar has been using this same 7mm socket caliper pin at least a far back as the 1995 X300, and hasn't changed through to the X350.(Note: Added detail by Stevetech)
4. After both bolts are adequately loosened, stick your flathead screwdriver in between the pad and caliper slowly pushing it open to loosen the caliper. Once complete, you should be able to remove the caliper and pads from the rotor by simply pulling it off.
5. Once the caliper and pads are off, next will be the part that holds the rotor and caliper in place. There are 2 bolts(15mm rear, 17mm front) in the same region in the rear of the rotor/caliper that are simply loosened and remove. Once you remove the final part of the caliper, the rotor simply pulls off.(NOTE: The front pair's bolts are extraordinarily tight. Use a 2x4 to apply pressure on your ratchet. Also, the rotor might be stuck on there, lightly tap the rotor with a hammer while rotating around until it loosens enough to pull of)
6. Slide the new rotor back on.
7. Re-intall the caliper part that attaches the rotor to the car. Remember, 2 bolts 15mm rear, 17mm front.
8. Remove old brake pads, and use caliper or c-clamp to push the brake cylinder back SLOWLY. Install brake pads with the pad that has the metal attachments first inside the brake cylinder. You will know how and what I mean when you remove your old pads. One additional step that a professional brake shop does is to crack open the bleeder screw at each caliper when the piston is retracted. This expells the brake fluid directly out the bleeder screw instead of pushing the old fluid backwards through the ABS junction block. I place a plastic tube on the bleeder screw and expell into a container. Done correctly, it doesn't add air into the system and, essentially, keeps the brake fluid level in the entire system at the same level. (Note: Added by Stevetech)
9. Using your star key socket and ratchet, line up the caliper and bolts in the back and tighten. Do not forget to reinstall your plastic covers, this prevents water from rusting those bolts shut. As you reinstall the caliper pins, lubricate these pins with synthetic caliper pin grease. This is a very important step! Also, these two pins should stay oriented in their original positions. (added by: Stevetech)
10. Once done, put on your tire, tighten lugnuts.
11. I chose not to bleed the brakes simply because I took it to Jaguar for a brake fluid flush. $80 is just too cheap for me to hassle with it.
Installed Disc Italia Rotors and Pads on a 2003 Jaguar XJR 4.0 S/C(non-brembo)
Stats: Front rotors 21.5lbs(both oem and Disc Italia) 325mm
rear rotors 15lbs 305mm
1. Jack up your XJ, after securing it, remove tire exposing the brakes and rotor.
2. Remove tension spring holding the calipers in the front. I used a simple flathead screwdriver to just pop it off.
3. At the rear of the brake caliper, there are two "pillars" with black plastic caps covering them. Remove the caps, and proceed to loosen both screws, which are star orientated bolts, until they are roughly a half inch past the top of its pillar. (Note, on the rear brakes, the bottom bolt is a bit difficult to maneuver because of the brake fluid line, go slow and be careful not to strip it)
This is the torx bit(that I referred to as a star key), but the caliper pins are actually 7mm hex socket head bolts. Sometimes a torx bit can be forced in a hex head bolt, but the correct tool should be a 7mm allen key. Jaguar has been using this same 7mm socket caliper pin at least a far back as the 1995 X300, and hasn't changed through to the X350.(Note: Added detail by Stevetech)
4. After both bolts are adequately loosened, stick your flathead screwdriver in between the pad and caliper slowly pushing it open to loosen the caliper. Once complete, you should be able to remove the caliper and pads from the rotor by simply pulling it off.
5. Once the caliper and pads are off, next will be the part that holds the rotor and caliper in place. There are 2 bolts(15mm rear, 17mm front) in the same region in the rear of the rotor/caliper that are simply loosened and remove. Once you remove the final part of the caliper, the rotor simply pulls off.(NOTE: The front pair's bolts are extraordinarily tight. Use a 2x4 to apply pressure on your ratchet. Also, the rotor might be stuck on there, lightly tap the rotor with a hammer while rotating around until it loosens enough to pull of)
6. Slide the new rotor back on.
7. Re-intall the caliper part that attaches the rotor to the car. Remember, 2 bolts 15mm rear, 17mm front.
8. Remove old brake pads, and use caliper or c-clamp to push the brake cylinder back SLOWLY. Install brake pads with the pad that has the metal attachments first inside the brake cylinder. You will know how and what I mean when you remove your old pads. One additional step that a professional brake shop does is to crack open the bleeder screw at each caliper when the piston is retracted. This expells the brake fluid directly out the bleeder screw instead of pushing the old fluid backwards through the ABS junction block. I place a plastic tube on the bleeder screw and expell into a container. Done correctly, it doesn't add air into the system and, essentially, keeps the brake fluid level in the entire system at the same level. (Note: Added by Stevetech)
9. Using your star key socket and ratchet, line up the caliper and bolts in the back and tighten. Do not forget to reinstall your plastic covers, this prevents water from rusting those bolts shut. As you reinstall the caliper pins, lubricate these pins with synthetic caliper pin grease. This is a very important step! Also, these two pins should stay oriented in their original positions. (added by: Stevetech)
10. Once done, put on your tire, tighten lugnuts.
11. I chose not to bleed the brakes simply because I took it to Jaguar for a brake fluid flush. $80 is just too cheap for me to hassle with it.
Thanks for a great post!
The following users liked this post:
Orthodixie (06-21-2017)
#57
03-12-2014, 03:54 PM
I've just replaced my brake pads and disks, and this write-up was a fantastic help... however, the calliper retaining bolts on my 2000 XJR are very definitely T45 torx bolts, not 7mm Hex. I didn't get a photo, but you can clearly see the groves there the torx bit fits into the bolt, rather than being smooth, which would be expected if it was hex.
A T45 Torx bit is definitely a must-have for anyone looking to do any work on these cars, they're used in a quite few places, eg the seatbelt anchors.
A T45 Torx bit is definitely a must-have for anyone looking to do any work on these cars, they're used in a quite few places, eg the seatbelt anchors.
#58
06-12-2014, 08:40 AM
Senior Member
#59
06-12-2014, 05:18 PM
Firstly, you're in the wrong section for XJS's, you'll want to go here instead:
XJS - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
There's nothing complicated about front brakes on your car though, and I believe yours, being a 93, should have outboard rear brakes as well, which makes it quite simple to change. Anyone with a little experience shouldn't have any trouble, but if it were me, I'd still be looking at using a garage that has worked on Jags before, just in case.
XJS - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
There's nothing complicated about front brakes on your car though, and I believe yours, being a 93, should have outboard rear brakes as well, which makes it quite simple to change. Anyone with a little experience shouldn't have any trouble, but if it were me, I'd still be looking at using a garage that has worked on Jags before, just in case.
#60
07-05-2014, 06:23 AM
Senior Member