Originally Posted by Davebc

That's just what I needed to get my brake job going, does anyone know correct torque settings for all fasteners for a brake job? (calliper pins, mounting bolts, wheel lug nuts....) My car is a '03 XK 4.2

Also has anyone had to replace the parking brake shoes?

Thanks

Originally Posted by jpbaily1

Great tutorial.

Note for the 1998 XJ8's, there are 2 versions of the rear disc pads.

One has a larger spring clip that goes into the disc piston, and the other has a smaller clip size.

I am having a real hard time finding the small size.

Just trying to save some frustration for others.

Originally Posted by princemarko

Tools used: Ratchet, star key, 15mm & 17mm socket, flathead screwdriver, hammer, brake caliper clamp or c-clamp and a 2x4.

Installed Disc Italia Rotors and Pads on a 2003 Jaguar XJR 4.0 S/C(non-brembo)

Stats: Front rotors 21.5lbs(both oem and Disc Italia) 325mm
rear rotors 15lbs 305mm



1. Jack up your XJ, after securing it, remove tire exposing the brakes and rotor.



2. Remove tension spring holding the calipers in the front. I used a simple flathead screwdriver to just pop it off.



3. At the rear of the brake caliper, there are two "pillars" with black plastic caps covering them. Remove the caps, and proceed to loosen both screws, which are star orientated bolts, until they are roughly a half inch past the top of its pillar. (Note, on the rear brakes, the bottom bolt is a bit difficult to maneuver because of the brake fluid line, go slow and be careful not to strip it)



This is the torx bit(that I referred to as a star key), but the caliper pins are actually 7mm hex socket head bolts. Sometimes a torx bit can be forced in a hex head bolt, but the correct tool should be a 7mm allen key. Jaguar has been using this same 7mm socket caliper pin at least a far back as the 1995 X300, and hasn't changed through to the X350.(Note: Added detail by Stevetech)



4. After both bolts are adequately loosened, stick your flathead screwdriver in between the pad and caliper slowly pushing it open to loosen the caliper. Once complete, you should be able to remove the caliper and pads from the rotor by simply pulling it off.



5. Once the caliper and pads are off, next will be the part that holds the rotor and caliper in place. There are 2 bolts(15mm rear, 17mm front) in the same region in the rear of the rotor/caliper that are simply loosened and remove. Once you remove the final part of the caliper, the rotor simply pulls off.(NOTE: The front pair's bolts are extraordinarily tight. Use a 2x4 to apply pressure on your ratchet. Also, the rotor might be stuck on there, lightly tap the rotor with a hammer while rotating around until it loosens enough to pull of)









6. Slide the new rotor back on.

7. Re-intall the caliper part that attaches the rotor to the car. Remember, 2 bolts 15mm rear, 17mm front.

8. Remove old brake pads, and use caliper or c-clamp to push the brake cylinder back SLOWLY. Install brake pads with the pad that has the metal attachments first inside the brake cylinder. You will know how and what I mean when you remove your old pads. One additional step that a professional brake shop does is to crack open the bleeder screw at each caliper when the piston is retracted. This expells the brake fluid directly out the bleeder screw instead of pushing the old fluid backwards through the ABS junction block. I place a plastic tube on the bleeder screw and expell into a container. Done correctly, it doesn't add air into the system and, essentially, keeps the brake fluid level in the entire system at the same level. (Note: Added by Stevetech)




9. Using your star key socket and ratchet, line up the caliper and bolts in the back and tighten. Do not forget to reinstall your plastic covers, this prevents water from rusting those bolts shut. As you reinstall the caliper pins, lubricate these pins with synthetic caliper pin grease. This is a very important step! Also, these two pins should stay oriented in their original positions. (added by: Stevetech)



10. Once done, put on your tire, tighten lugnuts.


11. I chose not to bleed the brakes simply because I took it to Jaguar for a brake fluid flush. $80 is just too cheap for me to hassle with it.