Step-by-step guide to rotor/brake pad replacement(with pics) FAQ
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 692
Likes: 174
From: Fall River MA
Whenever I would run into a stuck nut or bolt I would spray it with PB Blaster tap it with a hammer (JUST A TAP) and then I would force it tight then it would come right out. At times I would put an extension on the breaker bar but it would work. I think I only had a few that I could not get out and if they were nuts I would use a nut cracker to split it in half and put a new one on. WD-40 will not cut the rust or oxidation.
I'd also add, in addition to PB Blaster, two other penetrating lubricant ideas I've used over the years (in restoring a brace of other the marques' cars from the mother land...).
1. Deep Creep. Made by the Sea Foam folks; when PB hasn't done the job, I've sprayed the recalcitrant fitting with this elixr a couple times, let it sit for an hour, and it's usually helped the job along.
2. My own concoction of Dextron ATF and Acetone, mixed in equal quantities, and drizzled onto the said really recalcitrant fitting. But only as a last resort before breaking out the blue wrench and splitter.
Of course, with any of these, be careful (especially with the second) for sparks, open flames, and ensure good ventilation.
HTH
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 20,500
Likes: 15,276
From: Crossroads of America
1. Deep Creep. Made by the Sea Foam folks; when PB hasn't done the job, I've sprayed the recalcitrant fitting with this elixr a couple times, let it sit for an hour, and it's usually helped the job along.
2. My own concoction of Dextron ATF and Acetone, mixed in equal quantities, and drizzled onto the said really recalcitrant fitting. But only as a last resort before breaking out the blue wrench and splitter.
Of course, with any of these, be careful (especially with the second) for sparks, open flames, and ensure good ventilation.
HTH
2. My own concoction of Dextron ATF and Acetone, mixed in equal quantities, and drizzled onto the said really recalcitrant fitting. But only as a last resort before breaking out the blue wrench and splitter.
Of course, with any of these, be careful (especially with the second) for sparks, open flames, and ensure good ventilation.
HTH
Bryan,
Thanks for the tips. With your own concoction, it would also be prudent to avoid any painted or plastic surfaces since Acetone can quickly eat through most paints and can also dissolve many plastics.
Cheers,
Don
Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 96
Likes: 4
From: lake bluff il
I have an 04 XKR I wanted to put on new rotors but I could only remove the bolts holding the caliber on half way and it was tough even moving them (with a breaker bar). they were just too tight whats the best way to get them off? Is heat the answer? I tried BP blaster no joy.Thanks guys.
Veteran Member
Joined: Feb 2011
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From: on-the-edge
Some models have threadlock on the caliper mounting bolts.
The loctite literature states that heat is required to undo fasteners where loctite red has been applied.
One technique is to alternately loosen and tighten the fastener once it has been broken loose to clean debris out of the threads. If you have exposed a couple of threads, then shooting lubricant down the thread is definitely helpful in the process.
This is the X308 forum section. Help specific to the XK is more likely to be found in the XK section.
The loctite literature states that heat is required to undo fasteners where loctite red has been applied.
One technique is to alternately loosen and tighten the fastener once it has been broken loose to clean debris out of the threads. If you have exposed a couple of threads, then shooting lubricant down the thread is definitely helpful in the process.
This is the X308 forum section. Help specific to the XK is more likely to be found in the XK section.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 692
Likes: 174
From: Fall River MA
Advice well stated, if you need to be careful...
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 20,500
Likes: 15,276
From: Crossroads of America
I've always admired Lotus sports cars, but as of yet I've never had the opportunity to drive one. As a kid I built my own go-cart, and my first two cars were Brit roadsters (Spitfire & MGB), so Colin Chapman's design philosophies have always resonated with me:
“Simplify, then add lightness."
“Adding power makes you faster on the straights, subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere.”
Cheers!
Don
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Hi, I'm a new guy and have yet to read all the guides, rules , regs, and options. Thanks to princemarko for info on brakes. I have a '95 XJS with overheating and locking of both rear brakes.
Replaced rotors, pads, emer. brake pads, adjusted ebrake cable tension, and replaced 32 oz of brake fluid. Still locking and heating: calipers replacement?? Maaster cylinder replacement? Please advise. .
jusaskin
Replaced rotors, pads, emer. brake pads, adjusted ebrake cable tension, and replaced 32 oz of brake fluid. Still locking and heating: calipers replacement?? Maaster cylinder replacement? Please advise. .
jusaskin
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 21
Likes: 6
From: Washington State
Great write up
But jaguar has snookered me, as on a 2011 XK a 7mm key too small and 10mm too big, what now? New pads in hand and I can't get it apart to get old ones off.
Yea, lmao, only after accidentally discovering that a 9mm Allen is needed for the caliper guide pins, I searched high and low this forum but all said 7mm was needed. lol, after completing the project I run across thread "low pads" xkr mentioned 9mm needed front 7 mm rear.
What amazed me most was after 65 k mi, pads were down not quite half and rotors looked great, just faint ridge on the outer most edge and near hub
But jaguar has snookered me, as on a 2011 XK a 7mm key too small and 10mm too big, what now? New pads in hand and I can't get it apart to get old ones off.
Yea, lmao, only after accidentally discovering that a 9mm Allen is needed for the caliper guide pins, I searched high and low this forum but all said 7mm was needed. lol, after completing the project I run across thread "low pads" xkr mentioned 9mm needed front 7 mm rear.
What amazed me most was after 65 k mi, pads were down not quite half and rotors looked great, just faint ridge on the outer most edge and near hub
Last edited by FastKat2011; Nov 8, 2015 at 11:43 PM. Reason: Update
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 883
Likes: 149
From: Houston Tx
JUSASKIN
I would look to the master cyl as the culprit. You can't compress a fluid so look at your brake lines as solid bars of steel pushed by the master cylinder. When pressed against the caliper cylinder and can't release any cylindar then it is probable the master cylinder
I would look to the master cyl as the culprit. You can't compress a fluid so look at your brake lines as solid bars of steel pushed by the master cylinder. When pressed against the caliper cylinder and can't release any cylindar then it is probable the master cylinder
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 643
Likes: 85
From: NH, USA
Removing thread lock
Some models have threadlock on the caliper mounting bolts.
The loctite literature states that heat is required to undo fasteners where loctite red has been applied.
One technique is to alternately loosen and tighten the fastener once it has been broken loose to clean debris out of the threads. If you have exposed a couple of threads, then shooting lubricant down the thread is definitely helpful in the process.
The loctite literature states that heat is required to undo fasteners where loctite red has been applied.
One technique is to alternately loosen and tighten the fastener once it has been broken loose to clean debris out of the threads. If you have exposed a couple of threads, then shooting lubricant down the thread is definitely helpful in the process.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 265
Likes: 49
From: San Francisco Bay Area (south bay), California USA
screwing in rear brake pistons? ignore, wrong forum
Please ignore. Wrong forum.
Last edited by slmskrs; Mar 16, 2017 at 11:55 AM. Reason: realized this is x308, I have an x350 so not applicable (delete)
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 927
Likes: 223
From: Wellington, New Zealand
I find this a little amusing... choosing replacement disks based on cosmetics :P
Google wasn't much help, other than a few pictures of dimpled Brembo rotors, but none of them run Asteroids.
If you're doing this for looks only, just make sure you're still buying a quality disk.
If you're doing this for improved performance (deglazing pads, clearing gas/dust) then it's probably not really worth it over a good quality standard rotor. Upgrading to better pads is a much easier way to go.
Google wasn't much help, other than a few pictures of dimpled Brembo rotors, but none of them run Asteroids.
If you're doing this for looks only, just make sure you're still buying a quality disk.
If you're doing this for improved performance (deglazing pads, clearing gas/dust) then it's probably not really worth it over a good quality standard rotor. Upgrading to better pads is a much easier way to go.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 123
Likes: 29
From: Los Angeles CA
Thanks Grandell if I have the option to do it now, why not? I would never buy the cheap drilled rotors. I would only buy a high quality product.
I have searched google and have turned zero results. I am more curious than anything. I don't believe that drilled rotors would make any difference in the way I drive so at that point it becomes an aesthetic thing. Maybe it gives the cat a sportier look, like the Brembo equiped ones or a E55 AMG.
In the end I'll probably just get factory since my curiosity has not been fulfilled.
Whats the best pad / rotor combo people are using, aside from buying from the dealer?
BTW I was in New Zealand for a couple of weeks. Lovely place!! Wellington is quite the windy city. Chicago has nothing on it.
Cheers!
I have searched google and have turned zero results. I am more curious than anything. I don't believe that drilled rotors would make any difference in the way I drive so at that point it becomes an aesthetic thing. Maybe it gives the cat a sportier look, like the Brembo equiped ones or a E55 AMG.
In the end I'll probably just get factory since my curiosity has not been fulfilled.
Whats the best pad / rotor combo people are using, aside from buying from the dealer?
BTW I was in New Zealand for a couple of weeks. Lovely place!! Wellington is quite the windy city. Chicago has nothing on it.
Cheers!
I find this a little amusing... choosing replacement disks based on cosmetics :P
Google wasn't much help, other than a few pictures of dimpled Brembo rotors, but none of them run Asteroids.
If you're doing this for looks only, just make sure you're still buying a quality disk.
If you're doing this for improved performance (deglazing pads, clearing gas/dust) then it's probably not really worth it over a good quality standard rotor. Upgrading to better pads is a much easier way to go.
Google wasn't much help, other than a few pictures of dimpled Brembo rotors, but none of them run Asteroids.
If you're doing this for looks only, just make sure you're still buying a quality disk.
If you're doing this for improved performance (deglazing pads, clearing gas/dust) then it's probably not really worth it over a good quality standard rotor. Upgrading to better pads is a much easier way to go.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 26
Likes: 12
From: Toronto
Stuck rotor solution
My rotors were stuck on like crazy (R1 Brembo discs). Hammer, torch, wd40, air hammer... nothing worked. Got a 3 jaw puller and hooked it to the rotor, and placed a metal place on the outside of the hub rim. With an air impact i drove the bolt in and it popped off like a gunshot.