XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Strange ABS/TRAC unavailable issue

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  #21  
Old 03-22-2011, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by victorpalm
Hi there all!
I cleaned all four sensors today, and there wasn’t anything on them, I drove about 4ml, the ABS light and TRAC/ASC massage still there, I am going to take the car to Jag shop, to get the code out of it probably tomorrow.
Thank you for update bluerdg,
how many days it took to send the module and get it back
7 days round trip - I had some time so I sent Fed Ex ground to them (saved a few bucks). They had it 2 days after I shipped it - Called me the morning of the 3rd day and said it had been tested and repaired and to look that evening for an e-mail with tracking info. Was in transit over the weekend, but sent on a Tuesday Morning and received on Tuesday afternoon. Ebay item# 380275715848 Full Lifetime warranty to original purchaser of rebuild. 55.00 + 13.00 shipping on there end, shipping cost on your end is up to you. As for taking it to the shop - I'd wait until after you get the module if you plan on shipping it out for rebuild. I installed mine and the lights and warnings are gone so far. It might have stored a code but if it did, it doesn't appear to be causing it to display messages. If it's the module the messages and the code will return, and I'd be the dealer is going to charge you more than the rebuild to check it.
 

Last edited by bluerdg; 03-22-2011 at 10:44 AM. Reason: Addtl info
  #22  
Old 03-22-2011, 08:18 PM
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Hi there
I took the car to jag shop, the code is C1095, that code is for the ABS pump, but the thechnician there said that, when they get that code, that is the module, and they are very experanced, they do Jaguars only, (Just Jaguar in Sherman oaks, CA).
I am going to remove the module.
Bluerdg, did you disconect the break lines? When you get your module back, can you tell, that if they cut the plastic box, or they just remove the circuit bord from it?
Victor.
 
  #23  
Old 03-22-2011, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by victorpalm
Hi there
I took the car to jag shop, the code is C1095, that code is for the ABS pump, but the thechnician there said that, when they get that code, that is the module, and they are very experanced, they do Jaguars only, (Just Jaguar in Sherman oaks, CA).
I am going to remove the module.
Bluerdg, did you disconect the break lines? When you get your module back, can you tell, that if they cut the plastic box, or they just remove the circuit bord from it?
Victor.
Do not remove the brake lines. Follow the lines off the top of the unit, about a foot back toward the firewall you'll see a circular clip to bundle the lines. Open the clip and rotate and the lines will free up a bit. That will give you just enough play to flex the lines outward from the ABS unit. You'll have to slide the module about an inch outward from aluminum unit to clear half a dozen rods that protrude into the module. Disconnect the connector, and the two lead power connector, remove 4 screws and start to pull module back. I have my hood off so it was easier to get to, but I found that once you had the module clear of the rods removal was easiest by dropping the unit down into the well and taking it out from the front side. The rebuild was very professional. The box is a sealed unit and the PC board is just under the face. They have to cut it to get into it, but mine was returned with a very nicely done shiny epoxy seal - a tag from the outfit that did the work and one of those nice foil "Warranty - Do not Remove" stickers across the seam on one end. Other than the additional stickers, there is no real sign it's been worked on. No rough edges at the cut or anything like that. The outfit that I used does work on both computer modules and gauge clusters- got very good reviews on e-bay. Once you get the module removed, clean it off, wrap it up, box it and shoot it off - you'll get communication when they receive it, and they called me once they had it ready to ship to confirm service and advise to keep an eye out for an e-mail with tracking info.
 
  #24  
Old 03-22-2011, 09:25 PM
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Didn't other self-repairers in fact disconnect the brake lines at the module? (other threads) If so, would that necessitate bleeding the whole system when reconnected?
 
  #25  
Old 03-22-2011, 11:02 PM
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Thank you very much bluerdg
I am looking on a module, and i see there is not enough room between the module and the lines its about 3/4 of inch, do i have to bend the lines.?
 
  #26  
Old 03-23-2011, 02:19 AM
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Boomer: Every mention I have read regarding the self-fix specifically stated not removing the brake lines for that exact reason - not wanting to bleed.
 
  #27  
Old 03-23-2011, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by victorpalm
Thank you very much bluerdg
I am looking on a module, and i see there is not enough room between the module and the lines its about 3/4 of inch, do i have to bend the lines.?
I've seen the numerous DIY that say to disconnect the lines, and a few that say just to loosen them but the specific direction I've seen indicates that you'll need to bleed the brakes if you do. VP the lines are tightest at the top bend - they taper back as they drop down the side. They seem very rigid when bundled in the clip and attached to the top of the pump assembly, but once you loosen the clip and rotate it, you'll have enough free play to flex the lines. I wouldn't just grab and pull, but you'll be able to flex them back and slightly upward to give you just enough clearance to remove and reinstall the module. FYI the bottom screws are buggers, I had to use a socket and turn it with a pair of pliers to get the screw loose then hand turn the socket to fully loosen. Take the top two completely out, but you'll have to leave the bottom ones dangling loose in the module when you remove it. Keep that in mind when reinstalling and put the bottom ones in before working the module back in over the pins (no need to fight it twice) as the frame will prevent you from being able to put the screws back in once the module is in place.
 
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Old 03-23-2011, 08:19 PM
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Hi there all
Thank you bluerdg for detailed instructions they really help me.
I remove the module and it is on its way to Tennessee. It wasn't that easy to remove it, specialy those two botom screws, I use E6 star socket, but I think E5 would be the right size for it. I hope I will get it back next week and I will post an update.
Victor
 
  #29  
Old 03-24-2011, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by victorpalm
Hi there all
Thank you bluerdg for detailed instructions they really help me.
I remove the module and it is on its way to Tennessee. It wasn't that easy to remove it, specialy those two botom screws, I use E6 star socket, but I think E5 would be the right size for it. I hope I will get it back next week and I will post an update.
Victor
Those bottom two screws are a B*#&%. I think you'll be pleasantly pleased with what you get back. FYI - not sure if this is normal or not, but it seemed to take a bit for my ABS pump to catch up with the repaired module. After reinstalling the module, the ABS light would show during the system check, but go off if I had key in the on position. I got my timing job all buttoned up yesterday (running great), and I noticed that once I started her up the ABS light flickered and dimmed but didn't immediately go off. Over the course of the next hour I had the opportunity to start and restart the car, and the flickering and dimming continued, but duration seemed to shorten. I took the car out for a good run on the interstate 10mi out and back and the light was out the whole time. Starting since then the light has gone out immediately after the system test and the flicker/dim has disappeared. Only thing I can figure is that it took a few starts and some driving to reprime the ABS pump.
 
  #30  
Old 03-30-2011, 10:19 PM
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Hi there all
I just got the ABS module back from Tennessee, they did a good job, looks very professional. I install it and after the first start the ABS/TRAC light and the message they gone, i didnt test drive it yet, will do tomorrow.
Thank you all and you Bluerdg for help.
I make a tool for those two botom screws, it worked for me, and i took a picture, but i do not know how to put them in this post.
 
  #31  
Old 03-31-2011, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Sean B
I for one would have loved to see pictures of you going about the led repair, what did you use, and was finding polarity difficult?
Having the module rebuilt did the trick, I get a nicely lit ABS light during system check, but it shuts off when the test is done, so it doesn't look like I need to go back in. The bright white bulb I used is quite obvious when lit, but not glaring. White probably isn't the original color either, but it will definitely get your attention if there's a problem and blends well with the rest of the test bulbs in the gauge. It's just not an idiot light that you'd want to have on constantly while driving.
 
  #32  
Old 03-31-2011, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by victorpalm
Hi there all
I just got the ABS module back from Tennessee, they did a good job, looks very professional. I install it and after the first start the ABS/TRAC light and the message they gone, i didnt test drive it yet, will do tomorrow.
Thank you all and you Bluerdg for help.
I make a tool for those two botom screws, it worked for me, and i took a picture, but i do not know how to put them in this post.
Sounds like you got it. I posted previously about this, but you may experience some flickering of the ABS light once you the car started. I did for some reason. My first couple of starts, the bulb flickered and seemed to go dim but not off for a minute or so after start up. The only thing I can think is that the ABS pump hadn't been running for some time (somebody clipped the ABS light in the guage cluster before I bought it) and it took a bit for the pump to acclimate and prime or something. After getting my car out on the road a bit the flickering has ceased and I can feel the stutter of the ABS in a hard brake so it all seems to be working. I'd love to see the tool you made. To insert pics in a post - Below the message entry box you'll notice there is a section labeled ADDITIONAL OPTIONS. Look for the manage attachments button and click it. At the top of the box that opens you'll see an option to upload from your computer and a browse button. Click on the browse button, navigate to the picture you want to insert, select it and click upload. It'll take a few seconds but you'll see your file name appear in the window. Close the window and your done - you can add more than one pic. if you want. You can also check it by clicking on the preview post button next to submit reply.
 
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  #33  
Old 03-31-2011, 09:06 AM
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Hi
Look at Help and Sugguestion Center thread "How to add pictures in your messages". You should view postings 1 thru 8 - Cadilliac did an exellent DIY on this.
Here is the Link:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...essages-36173/

Jim Lombardi
 

Last edited by jimlombardi; 03-31-2011 at 09:09 AM.
  #34  
Old 03-31-2011, 11:04 AM
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Thank you Jim, thank you Bluerdg
This is the tool, i just cut a small piece of 6mm hex, and insert it on back of E5 star socket.
This is the repaired ABS module from Tennessee, professioanal job, thank you ate1234 (eby)

Update
I just drove the car around the neighborhood for 15 min, and no ABS light came on dash.
 
Attached Thumbnails Strange ABS/TRAC unavailable issue-dscn0303.jpg   Strange ABS/TRAC unavailable issue-dscn0307.jpg  

Last edited by victorpalm; 03-31-2011 at 04:15 PM. Reason: ad picture
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  #35  
Old 04-01-2011, 08:18 AM
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Inventive and very clever. Thank you
I might be able to use something like this in the near future.
 
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  #36  
Old 06-12-2011, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ixj8it
My Vanden Plas has done this to me a couple of times over the past year I've had it. The trac failure message shows up and the ABS light comes on. When this happens the speedometer doesnt work. I scanned it and the code was C1159, IIRC. That code is for the RR wheel speed sensor, I believe. I pulled the sensors and "cleaned" them, even though there wasnt much of anything on them and swapped sides. After restarting all was well. If it does it again, I am going to see what code it throws. I had no idea these ABS modules were known for failures though. Do you know what codes you were getting? Thanks in advance.
Well I hate quoting myself, but I have to rejoice for you all. This issue came up again, same code so it had to be the module or wiring. Checked wires and pins up by the ABS module, no problem there. I found a soft spot in the RH rear ABS sensor wires right where they go into the hard rubber shield. I cut the insulation and the wires were totally broken inside. I crimped them back together and now I have the speedometer and cruise again. Just thought I would let you all know!
 
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  #37  
Old 06-12-2011, 01:05 PM
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Good work, broken continuity at the RH ABS sensor loom gives no speedometer or cruise control, this one sounds obscure but without looking into the wiring diagrams, you've confirmed a fix. Nice one.
 
  #38  
Old 02-09-2012, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by bluerdg
Here's a recap of the info my buddy provided.

1. Missing or faulty bulb should not cause the fault.
2. There are a variety of clues that can be obtained by the warnings provided and when they are seen. In my searches I've even seen that you can get the unavailable warning from a bad connection on the TPS. My buddy says that if you get both the warning and ABS with ignition in on position and after starting, it's most likely a faulty module. If after starting you get BOTH on or off intermittently it's the module. One without the other can mean other issues, and the issue is dependent on which one you get.
3. You can have the ABS module tested if you can find a shop with the proper gear - I'm just in a location in the middle of nowhere with regard to Jag shops so I'm kind of on my own unless I'm up for a road trip. I've got the front of the motor pulled down right now for a timing chain job so I figured while she was down I'd deal with the ABS unit. Unfortunately, at the moment I can't start mine up, but I'm getting both with the ignition on so it's most likely the module. I found a shop in TN on E-bay that will test the module for all known issues, fix any evident issues as well as any they think might become one, and ship the unit back within a week, all with a lifetime guarantee. $55 + shipping to them so I sent mine out this morning. The unit is vehicle specific so this makes the most sense for me, otherwise I'd have to take the car into a shop and have a new unit programmed to the car. Problem is the car goes into restricted mode due to the other systems that run through the unit (trans, throttle, brakes - basically any system getting info off the wheel sensors). Good thing to keep in mind if you want to try the rebuild route.
 
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Old 02-11-2012, 09:32 AM
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Hi all,i have a 2000 xjr witch has an asc/traction not available come up,i have bought a reconditioned abs module and had it installed,the fault is still there and now the message incorrect part fitted has come up,can anyone enlighten me.Thanks.Grant.
 
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Old 02-11-2012, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by jagiam
Hi all,i have a 2000 xjr witch has an asc/traction not available come up,i have bought a reconditioned abs module and had it installed,the fault is still there and now the message incorrect part fitted has come up,can anyone enlighten me.Thanks.Grant.
Grant,
The vendor of the ABS module should have asked what year your car was. They are specific to each car, i.e. programmed to each car individually, so no, it won't work, unless the vendor sent you the correct year related module. More likely you got an earlier module for example 98/99. A 2000 module should work 9 times out of 10.

I hope this sheds light on the issue clearly ;-)

By the way, how old is your battery, and did you attempt to clean the wheel speed sensors before the failed module swap?
 

Last edited by Sean B; 02-11-2012 at 11:28 AM.


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