Things don't look good. Coolant leak, overheated, misfires and knock
#41
09-04-2016, 12:52 PM
Lots of good stuff there but not finding what I need. Nothing I can see on removing the heads.
#42
09-04-2016, 12:55 PM
A HUGE +1 on all of this!!
Don't remove the exhaust manifolds until the heads are on a bench. Take both heads to the machine shop and let them do their job. If the one head is salvageable, they'll hot tank the heads, mill the heads, grind the valves and seats and adjust the valve clearance. It'll cost about $600 - $800 for the pair to have done. I spent an enormous amout of time doing my own valve job only to find out that I had to send one of them out because a few valves wouldn't hold liquid after I lapped them. I'm also making a heavy assumption that you don't have access to any bucket shims like I did. Another reason why you should send them out.
Don't remove the exhaust manifolds until the heads are on a bench. Take both heads to the machine shop and let them do their job. If the one head is salvageable, they'll hot tank the heads, mill the heads, grind the valves and seats and adjust the valve clearance. It'll cost about $600 - $800 for the pair to have done. I spent an enormous amout of time doing my own valve job only to find out that I had to send one of them out because a few valves wouldn't hold liquid after I lapped them. I'm also making a heavy assumption that you don't have access to any bucket shims like I did. Another reason why you should send them out.
Another thought.
When you get the heads off DON'T TURN THEM UPSIDE DOWN TO LOOK AT THE VALVES. Put the cams back in. You only need to finger tighten them. If you turn it over without the cams in half of your cam buckets will fall out and you won't know which valve they came from. I know because I did it once and only once. It looks like your other valves have the correct clearances. If those valves only need to be lapped in they might not need to be adjusted and could save you a few dollars.
When you get the heads off DON'T TURN THEM UPSIDE DOWN TO LOOK AT THE VALVES. Put the cams back in. You only need to finger tighten them. If you turn it over without the cams in half of your cam buckets will fall out and you won't know which valve they came from. I know because I did it once and only once. It looks like your other valves have the correct clearances. If those valves only need to be lapped in they might not need to be adjusted and could save you a few dollars.
#44
09-04-2016, 01:09 PM
Veteran Member
Go to page 611 of the manual. It shows LH head removal and then RH. I think this shows taking exhaust manifold off before head removal, but I think the manual has the engine out of the car. Remember to label everything and it helps to take a few photos to help you when you reinstall everything.
#45
09-04-2016, 02:54 PM
Veteran Member
#47
09-04-2016, 03:45 PM
Go to page 611 of the manual. It shows LH head removal and then RH. I think this shows taking exhaust manifold off before head removal, but I think the manual has the engine out of the car. Remember to label everything and it helps to take a few photos to help you when you reinstall everything.
Do I really need things like the camshaft locking tool, or crankshaft setting peg? Or are there suitable alternative they I would likely have in my garage or find at any auto parts store?
#48
09-04-2016, 03:58 PM
Veteran Member
#49
09-04-2016, 04:01 PM
#51
09-04-2016, 04:11 PM
Here's the grail you seek, and at a great price plus free shipping.
Jaguar 97 08 Land Rover 3 2 3 5 4 0 4 2 4 4 V8 Engines Timing Tool Set | eBay
Jaguar 97 08 Land Rover 3 2 3 5 4 0 4 2 4 4 V8 Engines Timing Tool Set | eBay
The following users liked this post:
RJ237 (09-04-2016)
#52
09-04-2016, 04:19 PM
Veteran Member
JT that is a great price. OUSCOOBY you might jump on these. I paid over $100 for my set and I thought that was a fair price. You don't need the timing set until you reinstall the cams. When you're done with them sell them and you should get most of your money back.
I use a crankshaft pulley tool designed for the 4.0 which makes it a lot easier to remove the pulley. Look around on the forum, other members have used different methods to get it off.
There is no universal tool. These are designed for these engines. You can't go autozone and get a set. Your best bet is to buy this set. I would loan you mine but by the time you pay for shippinb both ways your better off buying this set.
I use a crankshaft pulley tool designed for the 4.0 which makes it a lot easier to remove the pulley. Look around on the forum, other members have used different methods to get it off.
There is no universal tool. These are designed for these engines. You can't go autozone and get a set. Your best bet is to buy this set. I would loan you mine but by the time you pay for shippinb both ways your better off buying this set.
Last edited by BobRoy; 09-04-2016 at 04:45 PM.
#53
09-04-2016, 05:39 PM
JT that is a great price. OUSCOOBY you might jump on these. I paid over $100 for my set and I thought that was a fair price. You don't need the timing set until you reinstall the cams. When you're done with them sell them and you should get most of your money back.
I use a crankshaft pulley tool designed for the 4.0 which makes it a lot easier to remove the pulley. Look around on the forum, other members have used different methods to get it off.
There is no universal tool. These are designed for these engines. You can't go autozone and get a set. Your best bet is to buy this set. I would loan you mine but by the time you pay for shippinb both ways your better off buying this set.
I use a crankshaft pulley tool designed for the 4.0 which makes it a lot easier to remove the pulley. Look around on the forum, other members have used different methods to get it off.
There is no universal tool. These are designed for these engines. You can't go autozone and get a set. Your best bet is to buy this set. I would loan you mine but by the time you pay for shippinb both ways your better off buying this set.
Last edited by OUScooby; 09-04-2016 at 05:43 PM.
#54
09-05-2016, 03:18 PM
So I'm trying to get the timing chain cover off and I've reached the point where I need to remove the crankshaft pulley. The workshop manual say to use a crankshaft locking tool. I don't know if that is included in the kit linked above that I just ordered. I'm off to auto zone to see if they have any loaner tool that might work as I need to get a pulley puller anyway. In the meantime, anyone got tips on immobilizing the crank without this tool?
#55
09-05-2016, 06:08 PM
So I'm trying to get the timing chain cover off and I've reached the point where I need to remove the crankshaft pulley. The workshop manual say to use a crankshaft locking tool. I don't know if that is included in the kit linked above that I just ordered. I'm off to auto zone to see if they have any loaner tool that might work as I need to get a pulley puller anyway. In the meantime, anyone got tips on immobilizing the crank without this tool?
OK onward I go.
#56
09-05-2016, 07:26 PM
Veteran Member
#58
09-05-2016, 07:39 PM
#59
09-05-2016, 07:43 PM
Yes I'm familiar with this trick but the engine is in a start of half disassembly so cranking it isn't an option.
#60
09-05-2016, 08:14 PM
Veteran Member
I not a fan of using the locking tool that is installed in the crankshaft position sensor's hole. The crankshaft pulley bolt is installed with ~280ft lbs of torque. That is a lot of pressure on the housing that is made of aluminum. Also it is very close to the access hole for the torque converter bolts. If the housing was to crack or break there you would be taking the whole bottom of the motor off to replace it. When you reinstall I can loan you my crankshaft pulley locking tool.
The following users liked this post:
RJ237 (09-06-2016)