I replaced two very old looking VVT seals with very minor leakage with two shiny new ones (uro brand). No leaking for a couple of weeks then they both started leaking, mild to moderately. Concurrent with the leak came an intermittent ticking sound. No ticking at idle and none above about 1,600 rpm, just when slow driving, like around a parking lot.

I cleaned out the part load breather orifice, and the full load has vacuum at idle.
I cleaned and re-installed the seals a couple of times.
...no change

Do I need better quality seals?
Should I use a little silicone and stop the leak?

Any input is appreciated.

(This on the 2001 XJ8 with 99 engine)

 

Thanks in advance for the advice?

I searched before and after I wrote this post; still no definitive answers. If you don't have info regarding the tick ( which actually seems to have gone away on it's own) then how about opinions regarding the use of silicone to seal VVT?

 

On the off chance that one of the 370 people who saw this thread and apparently, like me, had no idea how to address the problem, would like to know what happened...

It appears my oil level was too high. I changed my oil and filter and filled to the proper level and now about 400 miles later still no leaking from VVT seals and no more ticking sound.

side note - I also dropped the oil pan, cleaned it out and replaced the gasket. There were no plastic bits in the pan, so my primary tensioners and guides are hopefully good. I replaced the secondary tensioners already. There was however a disturbing buildup of gunk in the oil pan! It was up to a 1/4 inch thick in some places and floating in suspension as well. First time in 16 years the oil pump area has seen light in my opinion. I scrubbed, washed and thoroughly cleaned the pan before replacing. Whether it makes a difference or not, it sure makes me feel better knowing that gunk is out of there.

 

I dropped the pan on my XK8 when I replaced the secondaries to remove some pieces of the shoe. The pan had almost no buildup of residue, so past owners were either not getting the engine up to temp. or were neglecting oil changes.

 

This engine was pulled out of a junk yard car with only 41,000 miles on it, so my theory is that it sat in that junk yard a LONG time. It has only been in my car for about 3,500 miles so the engine still has less than 50,000 miles (less than 45,000 actually).

Is that a logical theory? Would that explain the gunk?

 

The only thing that causes oil to coke (sludge) is not changing the oil. The fact that an engine sets does not cause oil to turn to sludge. It is a clear sign the prior owner didn't change the oil frequently.

 

So, other than getting the engine clean are there any other concerns based on the previous owner's oil change neglect during that first 41,000 miles?

 

If there was 1/4" of sludge in the oil pan at 41,000, the owner may have missed an oil change or two, or three, or four... Depends on what it looks like in the valve train area. If it's got a ton of coking in that area, you have to be careful how you try to get it out. Some try using aggressive solvents in the oil change to wash it out, but that can cause some very unwanted side affects. The best method, short of disassembly and removal, is a slower method using something like Marvel Mystery Oil every change, (it's a solvent) and change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles for a year using MMO every one of those changes. A gallon will last a year and less than 20 bucks at WalMart. Follow the direction on the bottle. This will slowly remove the sludge and coking from the engine. It will fill an oil filter with the goop, and the suspension in the oil will carry it out. I can personally attest to this method of cleansing. MMO has proven itself over many decades as a very safe and effective way to clean an engine that has been abused like you report.

 

Ok, last question, because I realize I have gone down yet another rabbit hole...

The MMO use; do you run that for a short time just before changing the oil? Or, do you run a quart with the regular oil during the entire oil change interval time?

Thanks

P.S. - When I changed the tensioners the valve area was brownish/bronze but there was minimal buildup or "sludging" noticeable. There was a spot here and there, but again, minimal. Of course, in the cars I've maintained there is none; so yes I guess it was neglected a bit.

 

MMO stays in, one quart per change. Use it for a year or about 4 oil changes. Some folks I know in the business who would never do an oil change with out it, but I use it for cleansing purposes. It does a very fine job. I've used it since the 70's in a few of my second hand vehicles I have purchased for this very reason. Seen it used in hundreds of vehicles. It is very effective. Unstick oil control rings, clean sludge, clean the oil passages. I'm glad the upper end isn't hard coked, because an aggressive solvent break the flakes free and that's bad, you want to melt them. A "run for 10 minute engine flush" does nothing for an engine with a large amount of coking.