I’m new to the forum so hi everyone. I bought a 1998 Jaguar 3.2 X308 a few years back as a kind of impulse purchase. It hasn’t been driven anywhere since but I do start it up occasionally to make sure everything still works. Anyway to the point recently I tried starting it and it will crank but won’t start. I first of all tries “easi start” if that’s the correct brand name just to try and establish if it was a fuel or ignition issue. It did start briefly but stalled after a few seconds. This led me to believe it’s a fuel issue. After plugging in a friends diagnostic scanner thing I got a few error codes which I’ve attached in a screen shot. Any advice on where to start looking for the issue woukd be much appreciated. Thanks in advance for any assistance.

 

In the begaining the fuel pump will run for 3 seconds only then off , it will turn back on when the crankshaft position sensor sees rotation for the duration of your drive , safety design

With a good ear you can hear the fuel pump or place finger on relay and feel for 3 clicks on - off - on

Your V - 8 does have a dedicated fuel injector relay that should also click on finger

 

How many years ago did you buy the X308?
May I assume that the petrol in the tank (95 RON octane or higher) is just as old?
(Note for American readers: We have a different octane system in Australia and Europe than in the US, hence I wrote RON...)

If fuel get old, it gets "sticky" and it may glue solid those little delicate moveable parts oinside of your fuel pump, which may now not be moveable anymore...
So it is possible, that you may need a new fuel pump - and note that IF that was your issue, you need to fully drain the tank before putting the new fuel pump int here, otherwise the new fuel pump will last about 1 minute.

Or maybe you just need a new fuel filter - or Fuel pump and fuel filter...

These are my thoughts without looking at the error-codes - which may or may not mean anything in your case.

 

Thanks for the information. I’ll try and work out if the fuel pump is initially working but I don’t think it is. I think I normally get a buzzing type sound when the ignition is first switched on. I wander if I could have a corroded connector somewhere. Regarding the fuel it is relatively fresh, less than two months old so I’m pretty confident it’s not that. Thanks again for the information and I’ll try and get to the bottom of it and post on here if I manage to get the car running.

 

First Check the fuel pressure

 

There are 2 fuses for the # 1 fuel pump , relay control and pump muscle power

The control power fuse has to have the relay in the corner of the fuse box close unlike the bigger muscle power as fuse in trunk

The fuse is X in the Y fuse box as that corner relay , the relay may have a swapping option of same part #

 

Page 42 , looking

29 circle double hash is X with the relay requirement , 1 square is the muscle power

Somewhere in the past I came up with fuse #16 but I can't duplicate that today

Place finger on the # ! fuel pump relay and feel for click ( 3 clicks as a fully functional control on through having started if it did ) 2 clicks would mean.........................

X300 98/E COVER

 

Thanks everyone. I’ll make sure I follow this thread up if I manage to work out what the issue is. I’m hoping it’s simply a corroded/bad connection somewhere. Is the fuel pump inside the fuel tank or external? If it’s external I was going to start with the electrical connections on that. Again thanks for the input it’s much appreciated.

 

the fuel pump is mounted on top of the vertically mounted ( just fwd of the trunk fwd liner ) tank with the connector outside but fwd of liner , you can read it from the relay as socket 5 to car frame ground

there are provisions to have 2 pumps ( supercharged ) in tank so 2 connectors , 1 unused

notice how the big pump motor muscle power fuse is between the relay and the pump motor

 

I think you have a bad battery. Try starting it with cables to a running vehicle.

 

Ok I’ll give that a try. Thanks.

 

Yes try battery first as suggested. I had same three issues pending at some point, but we're no real issues, just low battery.

 

+1 ^^^

Yes, it may be (probably is) a fuel issue, but . . .

Golden Rule #1 . . . whenever two or more otherwise unrelated issues gather unexpectedly and simultaneously to display Jaguar's words of doom, use DVM to measure the battery standing charge. Forget how new the battery be . . . measured voltage is mandatory.

These forums have hundreds of threads that point to this quick and easy first step, especially for a car that is rarely started, not driven. All our experience points to these cars thriving on use and dedicated maintenance. Like any cat, they hate neglect!

Suggest reading up on "smart" battery chargers or "maintainers" (eg C-Tek) for any car that is not driven (adequately) at least weekly.

Cheers and best wishes,

 

Ok good advice. I’ll start with checking the battery. Many thanks.

 

Yes, and after checking, it would be beneficial to check for spurious drains on the battery.
Several forum members have reported various systems and accessories which can discharge
our ladies' batteries in short order. One that seems quite persistent for many members,
is the glove box light which can remain on if the door is not closed all the way. Such drains
can quickly discharge the battery below the voltage needed to start the engine,

 

I think for cars not running daily or maybe weekly, a good battery charger is important. I have a cetek hard wired that I keep on as I don’t drive it a lot. I am currently in TX for the winter and I have my cars all on chargers.

 

Thanks again everyone for the replies. I have a number of older cars, vans and motorcycles that don’t really get used that often so I do have a few trickle chargers that I can use. I normally just keep the battery for the Jaguar fully charged then disconnect it when I’ve had the engine running for a while. I assumed incorrectly by the sound of it that if the engine was cracking as it should that it should start. I’m an electrician by trade so I do have access to multi meters and test equipment. I’ll try a new battery first of all. The battery that’s currently fitted to the vehicle is quite old in any case so I don’t mind buying a new one.

 

What is your cranking RPM ? If seen on the X300 model the CKPS can still be missing the fuel pump enable extracted from the single CKPS signal

There are 2 fuel pumps on , 3 seconds only from key rotation and then back on from engine rotation seen by CKPS

 

If I’m honest I never really made a note of the cranking RPM. I know it’s not a very technical assessment but to me it wasn’t cranking slowly. I’m going to concentrate on the battery condition first then move on from there.

 

Did you get it to start?