Hey all! New here, I'm 21 and I just bought a 2000 XJ8 Vanden Plas (My first car) and I realized it has a few issues that need fixing but aren't essential for it to work. It's got 99k miles on it and has been VERY well taken care of by the two previous owners. I mean they spent thousands upon thousands on repairs and maintenance. I got it for $4,000 and I really don't know anything about the car just that I really liked the figure and feel of the car so now I'm willing to spend whatever to fix it up. I made a list and hopefully you guys can help me get a solution for every problem listed. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! 1. Suspension needs to be replaced. I'm not sure if its air suspension or springs, either way I'm not sure where to get the parts

2. Oil change is LONG overdue. (At least I think so, it's at MIN on the rod and is a dark brown color, almost opaque.) What kind of oil can I use and filter? Can I buy it at Walmart?

3. (MY FIRST MAIN CONCERN) A burning plastic scent can be smelled when you rev the car past 3,000 RPMs, or drive above 75 MPH, it stinks really bad and makes driving the car unpleasant. It doesn't smell at under 2,000 RPMs but over that it even starts to smoke a little. The car does not overheat at all.

4. Passenger doors' plastic frame (including everything inside the door. And I mean everything, the plastic door handle, the window button, the speaker, etc etc.) is coming off steel door. Appears to be damaged screws.

5. Rear view mirror has an unclean-able stain and doesn't stay in place. Where can I get a new one, will replacing it damage the electronics inside?

6. Driver door window switch works only sometimes. (This morning it doesn't work at all but makes a purring noise when you push the window down button.)

7. (MY SECOND MAIN CONCERN) Driver door keyhole does not work unless you apply pressure. (It won't turn left unless you apply pressure until it "pops", only then can you unlock it.) I'm scared of breaking the key, or the lock. I can't unlock the car any other way, more on this below.

8. Rear brake light bar does not stay in place. Missing holder.

9. Driver side headlight is burnt out. Where can I get a cheap working replacement?

10. Paint is peeling off in some areas and is super scraped in some areas but not very noticeable. I think it's mostly the clear coat coming off.

11. Car is showing four errors in the message center, TRAC unavailable, ASC unavailable, Low Oil Pressure, and Check Rear Lights.
12. Wiper blade needs to be replaced. I don't know what size to get.

13 Both front doors have air seeping in on the top rear corners of the door. The wind is very loud and takes away the peaceful quietness of the car. Might have something to do with the way the door seals are shaped.

14. Both key fobs do not work, even after replacing the batteries, they do absolutely nothing.

That's all. Like I said, the car is driveable, just not very comfortable or a performing at its best. I will upload photos and videos if requested.

 

Rockauto for parts Get 10w40 oil and motorcraft filter Rear brake Holder not big deal try to keep it stable there some how For the headlight Get h7 bulb very easy to change it As for paint I think it's not cheap get deeber paint and clear great finish If this is your first car and you're on budget then I assure you it's wrong decision I have 2 Jag I know what I'm saying needs lot of maintenance and cost a lot and fail more than other cars sorry but that's the truth unless you buy clean one and pay extra or else be prepared for surprises and lot of work if you buy cheap one . If you have enough money then keep it and fix it otherwise let it and get yourself Acura RL 2003 my suggestion . Take a look on rock auto the parts there not expensive but for 21 year old and this amount of work and this condition and no much knowledge bad idea son . Wish you the best

 

thanks for your response. I don't know, I spent about 3 months looking into this car and have heard about 75/25 good opinions on this specific model. I've read even on this forum about people having theirs for 8 years without doing anything besides brakes and oil changes. Mine was very well maintained and never raced or anything. The guy who sold it to me gave me all the receipts for all the repairs and they were checking it and fixing it every year. I believe he stopped doing maintenance on it about two years ago due to personal reasons but he stated that the car has not been driven since. I checked the receipts and he's not lying. I'm not sure, I think it's a good car, I don't think itll have too much to fix. The engine looks extremely well taken care of, its clean and nothing is rusty or broken, and there are no leaks. The bottom of the car is also very very clean and not rusty. The whole car is in quite literally tip top shape except for where the sun has damaged it and where it was used most extensively.

 

 

Narcissist?

 

No. Just think some of the replies will be interesting. But I should be more helpful. As mobile 1 said RockAuto is your friend. Parts will be a third to half of neighborhood auto parts store.

1. Suspension needs to be replaced. I'm not sure if its air suspension or springs, either way I'm not sure where to get the parts. Doubt springs. Maybe shocks, donuts on back and mounts on the front.

2. Oil change is LONG overdue. (At least I think so, it's at MIN on the rod and is a dark brown color, almost opaque.) What kind of oil can I use and filter? Can I buy it at Walmart? I use Mobile 1 0W-40. Cheapest at Wally World.

3. (MY FIRST MAIN CONCERN) A burning plastic scent can be smelled when you rev the car past 3,000 RPMs, or drive above 75 MPH, it stinks really bad and makes driving the car unpleasant. It doesn't smell at under 2,000 RPMs but over that it even starts to smoke a little. The car does not overheat at all. Stumped. Where is smoke coming from?

4. Passenger doors' plastic frame (including everything inside the door. And I mean everything, the plastic door handle, the window button, the speaker, etc etc.) is coming off steel door. Appears to be damaged screws. Door is held in by two screws, one big clip in middle and a bunch of small pop clips all around. One screw behind handle and one under arm rest.

5. Rear view mirror has an unclean-able stain and doesn't stay in place. Where can I get a new one, will replacing it damage the electronics inside? Stain is dimmer fluid or whatever is in it shot. Common problem.

6. Driver door window switch works only sometimes. (This morning it doesn't work at all but makes a purring noise when you push the window down button.) Does purring motor mean it's running? Stripped?

7. (MY SECOND MAIN CONCERN) Driver door keyhole does not work unless you apply pressure. (It won't turn left unless you apply pressure until it "pops", only then can you unlock it.) I'm scared of breaking the key, or the lock. I can't unlock the car any other way, more on this below. I'd pop door panel and see if something is binding.

8. Rear brake light bar does not stay in place. Missing holder. You mean the metal tab that glues to the window is missing?

9. Driver side headlight is burnt out. Where can I get a cheap working replacement? RockAuto

10. Paint is peeling off in some areas and is super scraped in some areas but not very noticeable. I think it's mostly the clear coat coming off. Leave it. Painting the car would cost more than you paid.

11. Car is showing four errors in the message center, TRAC unavailable, ASC unavailable, Low Oil Pressure, and Check Rear Lights. Low oil pressure scary. Check rear lights could just be a bad bulb or the control module by the battery is bad. Others, multiple possibilities.

12. Wiper blade needs to be replaced. I don't know what size to get. RockAuto

13 Both front doors have air seeping in on the top rear corners of the door. The wind is very loud and takes away the peaceful quietness of the car. Might have something to do with the way the door seals are shaped. No idea. Was it ever in a wreck?

14. Both key fobs do not work, even after replacing the batteries, they do absolutely nothing. There is a weird complex way to program key fobs by taking all kinds of steps. Search the forum. Can't remember if need one working key fob to do.

 

Thanks for your response. The car is clean, no wrecks at all. 10W-40 or 5W-30? The smoke is coming from the front area of the engine block, close to the fan. Doesn't smell like oil or gas just plastic. Could be the Engine causing friction against loose belts. Would painting the car really cost THAT much? As for the fobs, I'll look around.

 

Im not sure of your financial situation, but im not sure why you want to do this to yourself. As nice as the car may be, it sounds like it has a lot of issues. As a young man, dont you want to be out living life rather than dumping money and a bunch of time working on it (or having it sit at a shop)? Even with all the things you mention fixed, its a 20+ year old british car with 100k miles.

Maybe you make good money and you are a master mechanic but otherwise, sell the thing and buy something japanese to drive for a while.

Edit. Have the timing chain tensioners been replaced (all of them preferrably but more importantly, the secondaries)? If not, that takes some tools and skill and is likely a $2k plus job wt a shop. A motor killer if they fail
Sorry

 

OK, stop driving the car until you at least change the oil. I use mobil1 5w-30 in my XJR, which I think is the factory weight. Its important to use the right weight in an XJ8 as it variable valve timing and I beleive that is working on oil pressure. Go to walmart and buy two 5 quart jugs and a filter. Any brand oil is fine here, but you really need to get some fresh oil in there and the right amount before you bother doing anything further...the low oil pressure warning light is on for a reason and you're talking about burning smells and smoke coming from the car. Don't invest any more money until you can figure out if your engine and transmission are any good.

 

 

Thanks Mobile1! I knew I've seen that before but couldn't find it. Great info.

 

There are a couple of ways this can go. The first order of business, would be to change the oil and filter.
After that is complete, you must ask yourself if you are willing to spend the amount of time that will be
required to get the Jag up to the point you want it to be. If not, then do the cosmetic things that are glaring
to a prospective buyer who IS willing to spend the time and cut your losses. Jaguar ownership is a constant
need for attention except in rare cases, according to what I read on this forum. Are they worth it? YES!
Is it worth it to you?

 

All of the advice given is good stuff. I will add some quick thoughts. CHANGE THE OIL AND FILTER, NOW! Shocks are likely standard Bilsteins, available at Rock Auto or Parts Geek; you can do the fronts in your driveway with a jack and hand tools (might need new upper mounts, too); rears are much harder -- have a pro do that. Find a cheap OBD reader and read the codes (let us know). Headlights and wipers are DIY and cheap and a vital safety issue, just take your time (a member, long gone from here, used to say the most important tool in your tool box is patience; slow, careful, these are old cars). YOU MUST FIND THE SOURCE OF THAT SMELL (raise the hood get a friend to raise the idle while you SNIFF it out).

And before you get too far into it, how are the brakes, tires and battery?
Else where you will find each and everyone of your concerns addressed in this forum -- search tool is so, so; use Google! For instance, the door is tricky (you slide it forward); but there is a thread with pictures. Look around your neighborhood for a good independent mechanic. Good f****** luck on finding that upper brake light fixture! If you do, I can tell you how to attach it (or maybe save the one you have).

I have said this before: for $4000 plus another $3000 or so to get it right, you cannot buy a better used car for $8000 to $10000. I just bought my third X308, it was cherry so I paid $9000 and have another $1800 in suspension; still prefer it over a 2020 Lincoln coming off lease. Need advice, lots of good folks . . .

 

Its a great used car for those with a reliable back up car and the time, skills, and money to repair it. As the only car for what seems like an inexperienced 21 year old...no way. A corolla or similar is the best used car for this person.

 

I agree. I doubt the percentage of guys on this site with an XJ8 and no back of car is in the single digits. I have a 2003 911 and a 2003 XJ8. Both are finicky and have questionable reliability. When one has an issue, I drive the other. When something goes wrong I figure it out on one weekend, order the part on RockAuto and fix on the next weekend. It's hard to afford these cars unless you do the work yourself. I got a steal on my XJ8 at $1900. No rust, 100k miles, interior 7/10 and some clear coat on hood lifting. Pads, rotors, shocks, front shock mounts, rear donuts, thermostat tower, steering tie rod ends, TransGo pressure valve, changing every fluid and new headliner cost somewhere north of $2,000. I did all the work myself except the headliner. Figure a shop would have been around $4,000 in labor. Then there were weekends chasing down an EVAP leak, air bag fault and a vacuum leak.
My four kids have 2011 Honda, 2007 Honda, 2007 Acura and 2001 Toyota all with over 190,000 miles. In many years and many miles beside brake pads, batteries and tires only an alternator, brake caliper and power steering pump in the Acura and a steering rack in the Toyota. Nothing in the Hondas.

 

On the window if you locate the heavy gauge power wires to the window motor you can drive it up and down with a battery charger

This will verify if the motor / mechanism functions

When you put it back together there is a process to synchronize the window by holding the up button for a few seconds after the glass is full up

Check that the controller connector is on securely and the wire sockets are locked in place by tugging on the wire lookung at the removed connector face

You don't need a whole headlight lens but ust the small removable lamp on the back side at the local auto parts store

Traction control anti lock brake first thing is to remove the wheel sensors and clean the sensor face of debris ( this is different then the connectors )

 

Thank you so much for your optimistic response! Really got my hope up after everyone else was making me feel horrible for buying it. I do have a 2009 Corolla at my disposal that I can use whenever. Honestly, I'm just trying to use this car for a year, while I save up to buy a Mustang or something of that sort. Do you think it'll last me that long without any major issues? Like I stated before, the car is very clean and well taken care of, I cannot see anything broken or rusty in the engine. The previous owner was very careful with the car and did regular maintenance on it. According to his records (He gave me all the receipts to the work done on the car, including everything the car ever came with, keys, valet keys, extra this and that.) he did a full point inspection on the car a year and a half ago and absolutely nothing was broken. ABS and TRAC lights were on but the issue causing them was fixed. I'm pretty sure nobody is looking to buy this car right now so if I do sell it right now anyway I'll probably lose 1-2k, and will have to look for another car again. I'd rather just fix this one up to last a year. Not only that, I'm in the perfect financial position to do so. I'm making 1k a week and have nothing to pay besides rent which is $300 because I live with responsible roommates. I don't know much about this car specifically but I can very easily learn and I think I can make my own repairs with enough knowledge. I also do not see what's so expensive about fixing this car, parts are literally $15-800 online, besides the transmission and engine which is also affordable to me if need be. Is it because we have to keep paying say $30 over and over? Last question, how come these Jags break down so often? Is it the parts? If it is the parts, how come stronger parts aren't being made? If it's not the parts, then what is it?

 

May I also add, I drove it home from the seller for three hours and had no issues, besides the plastic smell. I'm also willing to spend 3.5K-4K to fix it.

 

Glad to hear that. First figure out that low oil pressure and then work slowly on the rest. It's not that they are terrible cars. I split my daily driving between my 911 and my XJ8. That said, I would take neither on a cross county trip. Ford owned Jag during this era so the reliability increased from years prior. That said, they just can't compare to the Japanese of that era and later or even Ford and Chevy.

 

Lets start with...have the timing chain tensioners been done? You may have broken pieces of chain guide clogging the pickup