Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. Right now I've got the fan shroud out, the intake, throttle body, crossover pipe and EGR valve removed. I did all that and then it just got too hot in my garage so I stopped there.

I've ordered new EGR gaskets, new Throttle body gasket, new supercharger gaskets (the two that go with the TB adapter), 2 new heater hoses and 2 new crossover pipe seals.

I still need to order the knock sensors, the part load breather tube, the supercharger coupler and the coolant bleed hose I broke taking the crossover pipe off. I ran out of budget so that second list will have to wait a while.

 

I've received most of the parts I think I'll need for this project now. The detonation sensors came today and I got boxes of various gaskets, seals and O-rings over the last couple of weeks. I also went ahead and got new heater hoses even though the previous owner replaced them (10 years ago).

I would still very much like it if someone would provide a link to a recommended snout re-build kit; or just the coupler. According to Porno I should use the original spring loaded design. I'm usually pretty good at online parts shopping but I can't find what he's talking about.

Links would be appreciated fellow Jag brothers & sisters. Thanks!

 

Not a link for a kit, but what you need to be looking for...

 

This is what I think I'm going to order. Does it look like a good choice?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jaguar-Land...n/122536115984

 

Yes, except that the description mentions "INA Case needle bearings" but the pictures do not show them. Better to clarify this with the seller.

 

What MS said...

 

Ok, thanks. I disassembled the snout from the supercharger off my parts car this morning for practice and was amazed how easy it was. If that kit turns out to be ok I feel pretty good about doing it myself now.

 

They said it's an error in the listing, the needle bearings are not included. For $23.95 more I can have them included.
Is it important to change them as well? Where do they even go?

The TB elbow was a bear to get out; bolt access was near impossible until I decided to remove a hose bracket that was in the way. It was not easy getting the bracket off but after that the rest went fairly smooth. I want to clean the TB elbow up but I'm scared to use brake cleaner like I normally would. Any special considerations for cleaning parts on this job?

Thanks,

 

Just a piece of maybe useless Info But maybe not you decide?

I have often wondered about battery discharging
I can't see energy being sucked out via the plastic enclosure to earth
what I think can happen
is the 2 terminals have a potential of say 12.5volts, and while they are sitting there, they constantly try to connect or power something up sooooo
as there is only air between the terminals, which is the best insulation highest resistance, they try to conduct therefore eventually flattening the battery.
now a cold concrete floor surely would not help the situation either.
but eventually, there will be such a sulfur build up on the plates it will die unable without a good big current flow be able to be restored and will never be at 100% capacity again

for me I sit them on a peice of wood with a trickle charger for days some times and turn them of for days and all for the past 4yrs are still up to the tack

 

I used brake cleaner on my elbow when I redid my tensioners and hoses. Just clean it up is all. Yes it is a bear to get out of the cradle... and with the utmost sarcasm...each and every time it sucks. As long as you accept its a "B", its not so bad. Plus I've learned to use a long 1/4" extension to remove the cradle plate bolts and a magnetic pickup.

As for those bearings, if you don't see any "rubbing" of the rotors, the you are almost assuredly good to go and don't need them. Most folks will change them just for piece of mind, not importance....which I understand. Then think what $24 could save you in the long run vs taking it off again in say 10-15k?...did I mention remove the TB? ....lol. But it could be fine to 250k, like any other part.

 

I already placed the order; got the whole kit including the needle bearings. Like you said, it's $24 worth of parts that go into a place on the car I hope not to be opening up again for many years (ever). I was going to take the supercharger off today after I got the elbow off but man, North Carolina was hot today! There was a heat warning today and I know why. I was in my garage but I spent as much time wiping the sweat off my glasses as I did turning bolts. Maybe I'll do it in the morning.

I've got everything new to replace except for the part load breather hose. It's not leaking and the one on there was replaced about 6 years (37K miles) ago. The last time I bought one it was around $30 but now I can't find one for less than $58, what happened?

When I take the rotors out to replace the needle bearings do I put them back oriented exactly as they came out or does it not matter?

 

Heck, I bought knock sensors for $69 ea and 2 months later they were $109. Thus the market and demand. As for dismantling and reassembling most anything, you cannot lose by copying how it came apart.

 

I removed the supercharger this morning! The heater hoses and PLB hose were replaced about 7 years ago per the maintenance receipts from the PO. They looked to be in great condition, like new! Despite that, I replaced them since I had already bought new parts. Feels weird removing and discarding what appear to be perfectly good parts. Knock sensors were original though so I felt good about replacing those.

I will remove and reinstall the old needle bearings on my backup supercharger for practice (like I did the snout bearings). Then when the parts arrive Wednesday I’ll refurbish the supercharger I just took off my current XJR.

Pictured is before removal (but after crossover, TB and EGR valve were off). Then after removal. Also there is a picture of the rotors in the supercharger I just removed and also a picture of the rotors in the supercharger from my parts car. The parts car only had 19k more miles than my current car but the supercharger looks much more worn, doesn’t it?


Before


After


Current supercharger just removed (105k miles)


Supercharger from parts car (124k miles)

 

It doesn't look more worn, it looks like its sucked up some oil from the breather and/or it got hot.

 

Ok, that makes sense. It came off an 03 XJR that changed hands many times and the last owner drove it very hard. I got it cheap. My current 02 XJR was cared for, I’m the 3rd owner.

I read on another car forum that the needle bearings in my supercharger press out from the outside of the casing towards the inside. I pressed out one of them from my spare supercharger and it did in fact press out that way. I’m perplexed though because the hole is smooth and uniform all the way through. There doesn’t seem to be a lip or “catch” of any sort so I know when it’s pressed back in to the proper position.


The one I pressed out of the spare supercharger.

 

That's why its a pressed piece, the cup simply holds in place and the bearings carry the impellers shafts.

 

I understand that, thanks for responding by the way. I appreciate your help. I’ve pressed in about 100 various bearings and bushings over the years and with the exception of a lower shock bushing they have all had a stop point, so that you know it’s positioned at the right depth. I guess I just eyeball this one and hope the tolerance requirement is not too precise.

 

That's on me Jeff, I read it as if you were looking for an alignment key for the cup to prevent it from rotating.

Do a measurement of the old one if they compare, ...I'll bet they simply bottom out flush inside.

 

So I finally have a full day free tomorrow and all of my parts have arrived. The question I can't get a satisfactory answer to is about pressing in the needle bearings. I've done lots of searching though...

I've read getting the exact depth correct is very important; supposed to match the depth of the originals. Neither end is flush on the original, because that would make it too easy. Does anyone have a creative idea or link?

 

How about contacting Eaton directly... https://www.eaton.com/Eaton/Products...rs/PCT_2000122