Did you try to turn the engine over with a socket on the pulley bolt?

 

Yes tried it and it won't turn...

 

Well. If it's not a hydrolock issue (i hope you've tried to turn the engine w/o spark plugs) then i bet it's a jammed piston. Spun bearings rarely locks an engine.
You may try to do the following:
-Pour some oil (5w30 or 5w20 will be fine) into the cylinders (100g per cylinder will be enough) and leave it for a day or two.
-Try to turn an engine over again - in both directions. If it WILL turn over - make a few turns with a socket, after that use a starter (still w/o a plug). Crank it for a 15-30 seconds, replace plugs, oil and filters and try to start it.

 

The con-rods can bend in a slight 'dog leg' shape which forces the piston off-centre & hard up against a cylinder wall, making the engine hard to turn with the excessive friction. I had this happen on an old BMW engine where the piston had hit the valve.

Auto transmission fluids like Dexron 3 can be helpful in freeing sticky pistons & rings-try injecting a small amount (100ml) into each cylinder, leave overnight & then try to crank the engine by hand with a socket & large extension bar with all the spark plugs removed.

 

yes; you can insure it but you can not put full coverage

 

It needed a 4.2 anyway if you have a lot of work into the car already

Search for a low mile block with supercharger if you wanna upgrade everything...

 

so the latest is, they want to offer me $6.5K for the car and want to give it a certificate of destruction as the cost of repairs they are estimating to be over $6.5K...i am working through sending them all my receipts and they actually seem quite willing to raise the value once i send them everything...they are also willing to sell the car back to me with the certificate of destrucion for $400 bucks...so i could make a nice penny on parts...i think between my auto dimming side mirrors and my ABS computer i could make that back :-)...i pointed out how the car has the R1 package and nav so i am hoping that brings it up a bit...still trying to figure out what to do...i might just take the money and buy another Series 3 or fix my XJR...my mechanic thinks a new engine and other work would be about $4 at most...none of the computers got wet and water never made it inside the car...so i am thinking an engine, alternator, starter, clutch pack, etc...decisions decisions...what do you all think...this is a tough one and i need some help ;-) man this car is such a part of my identity

 

get the best you can for it and buy it back; start looking for an engine that will work. Not sure what the breakers have in Fl; t'ain't none here in SE VA.

 

Certificate of destruction cannot be registered in Florida. Already been through that myself.

 

if you raise the ACV (actual cash value) of the car then obviously the salvage value will also increase. Get as much as you can, then either bail or part it out.

 

I asked the insurance to clarify if it will still have a certificate of destruction even if the cost of repairs is less than the actual cash value...I am trying to determine if I even have the options of fixing her...if not i am going series III or XJS and enter classic car mode

 

Just like I said the first time around,......get all the money you can, buy it back, source the engine, do the swap, and keep the car.With the prices they are quoting you, you'd be money ahead. I don't know what "certificate of destruction" is,....no such thing in CA. We have a "salvage title" here which means the car is worth a LOT less, but if one plans to drive the car to it's death,....who cares about the monetary "value". Salvage cars can be registered/insured and driven just like any other cars.

If there IS a problem to register the car in your state, you can always register it in the neighboring state. I have a "dual residency" myself, and half of my vehicles (including my DL), are registered in the neighboring state. I happen to own property on both sides of the state line (homes/businesses), but that's not a requirement. Sometimes cop asks me "how come" that my plates, and my DL don't match, and I tell him that I "live" on both sides of the sate line, and they shut up.

This US of A is still a "union" of the states, and it's not like there is another country accross the river (for now anyway!). But I spent few years in the law school, and I know what I can, and what I can not do. Some "rules/laws" are just stupid, and designed to collect as much money as possible, making sure some "other state" doesn't get it. I do with my money as I please, and give it to whoever I decide should get it (as long as there is an advantage for me).

 

If you buy it back, you will need to register it in Al or Ga. My son flooded his Sequoia in Md, USAA totalled it and he bought it back at junk price, fixed the problem, but was not able to get a title from Fl DMV (home state while in USN); took it to Ca, passed safety and emissions and got a Ca salvage title, As Daniel noted. No such animal in Florida, however. But the parts are worth more than $400 if you part it out. I would head down to Palm Beach and find the most cherry 308 you can find and take better off the dead one. And push the rest on eBay.

 

+1
Don't throw money at it.

 

4k+ in them thar hills if you part it out. Ebay/Craigslist are your friends.

 

With all the weather related damage -- states have become more restrictive regarding titles. I just went through this in Pennsylvania.

As others have said fixing it and keeping it is the only way to make this work as the car will have little value on the open market when repaired.

With the R package -- the wheels and calipers will have some value ......... most people report that trying to sell the parts after a buyback did not result in much free cash when all the associated costs are included -- especially the time.

In my case I took the cash and moved on. make sure they properly value the car and then add in the tax -- In some states they have to add in the DMV fees. Often I see offers of 10k (example) when actually after properly showing the fees and tax the offer was less than $9200.00.

 

well it is final...i am taking the deal and running...so i am gong to buy the car back as salvage for $480...and then they are cutting me a check for $5,900 (includes my $2,500 deductable ooch)....so now i can either part her out, or fix her...still not too sure yet...but if i did part her out...anyone interested in anything?
Base Vehicle Value

$ 5,950.00

Condition Adjustment

+ 1,023.00

Refurbishments

+ 419.00

R1 Performance Pkg

+ 570.00

Adjusted Vehicle Value

$ 7,962.00

Vehicular Sales Tax

6.00% $ 477.72

Sales Tax reflects all applicable state, county, and municipal taxes.

License/Fees (if applicable)

$ ______

Value before Deductible

$ 8,439.72

Deductible

- 2,500.00

Total

$ 5,939.72

 

One item I would advise everyone to look into is an "agreed value" policy. All of my cars are insured this way and the small difference in price is well worth it when a total loss occurs. I recently lost three cars in a house fire and having the policy setup the way I did provided for the best possible outcome. Not all companies have them -- and that should tell you something about the company.

My XJR w50k is insured for 16.8k on the policy -- so if determined to be a total loss (for whatever reason) that is what is paid -- no deductible.

One should, at a minimum, ask how a total loss value is determined.

Good luck moving forward!

 

yes, i totally learned my lesson there and how i should have asked the day i put the car on the policy what value they were insuring it for...i'll certainly be applying those lessons learned..i also found out progressive insures salvage titles in florida...

 

It will take you two days to strip it- you can cut the body into 1sq foot sections with a sawsall to transport to your local recycler once you have removed the panels.

An Air impact wrench is your friend. The front end and rear end each come out as one piece FYI. Start with the interior (that way you dont leave grease marks on parts) and then work your way from the front to the rear.

Be mindful of the fuel and brake lines when cutting, and when you rech areas of thick undercoating it slows the cutting waaaay down.

Something to think about- while you are parting it you can look for the *right* purchase, and use the money from parting to bring the new XJ up to snuff.