1997 Jaguar Vanden Plas 4.0 USA, 120,000 miles.

I must be one of those unlucky people to experience one of the "mysterious electrical problems" with my Jag.

The other day we had very serious rainy weather conditions. I ran through a couple rather deep puddles, and everything started from there on.

First, the locking "beep" would act as if key was still in ignition - it would screech instead of beeping. That went away after the car sat in the garage for a day. Next day, however, I drove on the highway about 20 miles and stopped for a bite to eat. Suddenly, as I parked and the car was still running, the entire dash board lit up like a Christmas tree. It flashed several times and left the "service airbag" message on it. I let car sit for about 30 min, then started it again and in 5 minutes or so the dash board started acting crazy again.

I decided to drive my BMW for a few days and let the car sit for over a week, thinking that it needs to just dry out. Took it out for a 10-mile highway run, and everything was fine. Stopped at the gas station, put gas in, inserted the key in the ignition to start - and woot! very brief flash of all lights on the dash board, plus the doors locked almost immediately. I drove home for two minutes and parked - no issues. Decided to let the car sit now, until I receive e-bayed used BCM I bought for $30, which I'm planning to swap and see if that makes any difference.

Any idea what's going on with my Jag?

 

Yeah. Something got wet !







Sorry, couldn't resist. :-)

Hopefully someone will come along with some solid advice but if they don't.......

Unless there's signs of water in the cabin or trunk I'd focus on underhood components, especially those low enough to get doused with road water.

I've had no opportunity to dig into an X300 electrical system (knock wood) so I can't tell what to check specifically but I'd just start unplugging electrical connectors and relays looking for water intrusion. Check the grounds a "+" junction posts, too.

Cheers
DD

 

While you are unplugging and plugging the connectors, you may as well give them a shot of water dispersant. WD-40 is sold for this purpose, but there are other products that may be better. Dielectric tuneup grease is also good for the wire entry ports on the connectors.

As mentioned by Doug, the ground points are worth looking at. Probably, worth looking at first because so many systems are involved together.

 

So, you don't think that just letting the car sit for a while might resolve the issue? After a long day of work last thing on my mind is digging under a 4,000 lbs vehicle... the thrill is long gone . lol

 

Hard to say. Things might dry out on their own...or not. Water trapped in tiny places might not dry out very quickly. Meanwhile, the connections are corroding.....

Cheers
DD

 

The guys from Car Tunes agree that there's corrosion going on somewhere. Penciled me in two weeks from now. My wallet is sweating...

 

Hi,

I hope you sorted out your water problem.

I have had success by blowing compressed air or nitrogen over connectors and items that have got wet. Then a puff of wd or similar water dispersant will usually fix things - if water is the problem.

Eddie

 

Well, nothing was found after "opening some panels" and checking visible connections. I was told to now seek dealer help; however, I'm going to try to detect a faulty ignition coil first - have two new ones, just didn't have the time to work on it. Thanks for checking back.

 

A really good place to check first is a pair of 18-20 way connectors right behind the RH headlights, next to the washer fill neck. One white and one black. Corrosion and mung likes to set in there, and a good splash of water can do them in. Take 'em apart and clean them up, and see if it helps any.

Cheers,

 

Well, Jack has saved the day! I popped open the hood, opened the ignition coil cover to expose 6 coils, and tada! One of them was flickering. A newly replaced one I must add. Quick (less than 5 min) replacement job I had done all by myself - and the car runs like new. Thank you Jack! Here's his post from the other thread:

 

My recently (month) acquired 96 VP had the locks activate with the car running) and me outside the car. If not for my lone valet key that I had in the house I would still be outside looking in. ANY HELP APPRECIATED
btw, the local Jag dealer said that the key cutter for my key is broken FOR THE EAST COAST !)
I have been working on some other electrical problems
( NO DASHBOARD LIGHTS)
(MY DASH TEMP GAGE MOVES UP ONCE IN A WHILE THEN GETS TIRED AND GOES BACK TO ZERO)
I HAVE A PREVIOUS post where I have to look for the auxiliary heater (thank you), but my heater blows cold. I have to check the thermostat, but the engine and hoses all get hot.

I will check for relays getting wet, but I think it was just humidity maybe freaking out my electrical system. I didn't go through puddles or anything.
Thank you so much! tom

 

One place that I would certainly check with the issues you relate is the main ground.
So many things that are deemed electrical mishaps can be traced to a weak ground.

 

A 96’ is considered an X300. This is the X308 section.

However, the security locking control module located above the left rear wheel well inside the trunk are notorious for going bad. The capacitors leak out and cause all sorts of issues.

 

I appreciate the replies and will check out both in the coming days. And I will try to keep in the X-300 group, but you guys are so helpful from any of the groups that help pours in from all over! Tom

 

If I read your message correctly, you can't find any locksmith in your area, who could cut a Tibbe key for you? If that is so: You can "read" a Tibbe key by looking at it. Google it. After you "read" the code of your key, you can mail-order it from any locksmith. If there is none in the US, I know a good one in Melbourne, Australia. You then still have to do the transponder coding yourself - and if you are lucky, you have a Jag-model, which allows you to do that yourself.

 

Thank you, I will follow up on this and I may be asking for the address in Melbourne. But at least there is hope… which if you didn’t have hope in your heart, you wouldn’t be working on these things. ;-)
Best,
tom

 

the 3rd picture in the following link explains a lot:
https://www.americankeysupply.com/pa...-the-tibbe-key

This is 6-cut tibbe key. There are also 8-cut tibbe keys (longer ones - depends on the Jaguar Model).
You read it from the inside to the outside (order of the sequence). Flat=1, max cut=4, and inbetween 2 and 3. The mail order locksmith needs perfect pictures of your key (from the side most of all).