When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Price of E85 is quite secondary thing, but you get cool and clean running engine and can raise the CR and optimise timing very much without risk of detonation. Of course you need to think all fueling system including rail, injectors, pipes and fuel pumps to match new requirement. As well as use some liquids to ensure proper oil lubrication. The ECU can be replaced or add a piggy tail. There are such a working solutions available. Not cheap but almost required if make any major power upgrades.
PS. Since there are some guys here spent A LOT of time and money for researching all kind of new things with these engines, I think such a exact info is not available publicly. They are more PM issues.
Very old thread but the question is still open. Plese look at the picture. That's a 2006 4.2 N/A block. The liner is 2mm thick. If it would be cast iron liner, it should be 3.5-4mm That's why I suppose the liners are steel ones. " If still unsure, next look for the engine number – if beginning with 0008181043 or higher, even if in a pre-2000 example, means that the engine has unproblematic steel liners. " https://www.motorious.com/articles/f...jaguar-xk8-xkr ,
" Jaguar soon began replacing entire engines. By the next year, engineers had changed the design to include traditional steel liners." https://www.popularmechanics.com/car...ar-nikasil-v8/ " The plating was later replaced with thin-walled steel linings. " https://www.jaguarheritage.com/jaguar-history/jaguar-engineering/ajv8-engine/ " The first steel-lined AJ-V8 came off the production line In the year 2000 on August 18th at 10.43am hence the engine number will read: "http://jagrepair.com/NikasilEngineBlocks.htm
Have no pictures of the liner anymore nor measurements on different places, but trust the formal statement from jaguar (via TSB) and to what I have found.
Here is a picture of the block without the liners, that alone makes it look like cast to me.
I just shared my findings when checked spare block today. As you can understand I am more than interested how much cylinder pressure the OEM block / /liner setup may take. 2mm sounds very thin to be basic cast iron liners. not sure if even centrifugal cast iron liners could be that thin. Of course there is simple way to test if they are cast iron or steel ones: Go to a machine shop and bore one hole.
Am dealing with the same issue; was wondering if you have photo to show at exactly where it's cast into the motor other than at it's base ?
I´m also facing the problem with worn-out liners in my rebuild (additional one liner was bored massively "off center" from factory, so one wall is only half as thick as the other...) and sent the photo above to my machine shop.
Their answer was that
- the liners are CAST-IN, which means the alloy block was molded around the existing iron liners (otherwise the alloy bore would be slick and a flange would be cut on the top), which process can´t be replicated
- it would be possible to bore the liners out, but NOT to replace them with pressed-in liners. The alloy walls, especially after being bored out further (to smoothen them out) are simply far to thin, and this would result in engine damage within a short period of time
i think we both mean the same crank
