I've gotten my new timing components in and I'm to the stage of winding the VVT Sprocket. Through a handful of other posts I've been told that winding does not take much torque. I've even seen someone's pics of winding with a set of spit ring pliers. I just tried to wind my B bank and bent a pair of needle nose at the joint. Just looking for some direction here, is it possible that the unit maintained pressure since it's full of oil? Any first hand experience with this would be appreciated.

 

Nobody's done this? Trying to figure out if the tool had some special powers that are not evident or if I ought to be able to turn the sprocket with something else. The only thing I can think is that the pins on the tool push back on a lock of some sort but I've tried a variety of tools and can't get anything to budge. This is the last thing I've got to do before giving it a spin via crank bolt to verify nothing binding and starting to button her up. Would be really helpful knowing what others might have run into at this stage.

 

Nobody who has experience with this has visited your post in the last FOUR hours, that's all... I know you're itching to get this done, but have patience and somebody with the proper knowledge will respond.

 

Hey blue, when i wound mine back i used circlip pliers, i found you could turn them about 45 degrees, didnt take to much force to move them in either direction, I just turned them to fully ani-clockwise position before tightening the lock bolt. As with most things in life, if you got to force it, it ant right! would have thought that any oil pressure would have been released when you removed the carriers.

 

Did you have to push in to turn or just get a hold of the holes and give her a spin? I went through a variety of searches and posts and was pretty comfortable that I didn't need the high price tool just to do this. I used a set of needle nose, positioned the tips in the holes of each sprocket and placed a crescent wrench on them to make turning easier. I assumed there would be some kind of resistance but what I though was stiff resistance was just the pliers bending. I've tried counter clockwise and clockwise and I can't get either to move a bit.

 

OK, I've been researching how the VVT works and I think I'm on to something. The term winding, as it was described in some direction I got, had me thinking the VVT internals were some kind of ratcheted, and spring loaded mechanism that would unload when the bolt was removed (kind of like the pull cord on a lawnmower). I see now that the VANE type VVT construction has an open range of motion side to side, controlled by oil pressure. I've been reluctant to apply much pressure in a clockwise direction, for fear of breaking something internal, but a previous post indicates that unit is capable of being turned in either direction which is consistent with the Vane type construction. I didn't have any chain slippage (just bad tensioners), and the car set for almost a month before I started working on it. The cams lined up with only minimal adjustment required to set the locking tool. Going on the assumption that VVT advances with increased oil pressure, and returns to the retarded position with reduced pressure, I'm betting now that the sprocket won't turn counter-clockwise due to fact that it's returned to retarded position.

 

I know, I know. You're right - Car's been down since January waiting for weather and doing the research. It's all gone smoothly to this point and I was actually under the hood with my laptop yesterday looking for answers. It took looking up the schematics on VVT but I think I've clarified the issue.

 

Is it actually called Winding the VVT? I made a post looking for the specs on tools used to do a timing job and got a response advising me not to forget about winding the VVT. After a few additional posts I was pretty comfortable that I didn't have to purchase a 110.00 tool to do this. It took doing some research on how VVT units are actually constructed before I figured out there was NO Winding involved. It's actually setting the internal component in the sprocket to the most counter clockwise position. Just in case it's helpful in a future search (I couldn't find any detailed particualars), you are not winding anything. The internals of the VVT sprocket are some form of Vane Type VVT valve. This means that you have internal components similar to an old fashioned water wheel. From what I dug up, the oil unit (Bush Housing) pumps oil into the sprocket and forces a vane or paddle clockwise. There are other internal components that limit the amount of advance to probably 10 degrees max, ie.. you will only be able to move the internal mechanism clockwise or counter clockwise that amount before it is restricted, maybe 1/4". If you are doing a complete timing chain replacement and following jag procedure (removing sprockets), be sure to check this out before the final tightening of the VVT sprocket. Find the two holes in in the sprocket well (where the bolt goes). Insert the sprocket bolt and hand tighten then back off 1/4 turn. Use can buy the Jag specific tool for setting the VVT or you can use a pair of needle nose pliers. Insert the tool or tips to engage the holes and turn counter clockwise by hand (use some force if you have to). If you are unable to rotate the internal unit it is most likely set where it needs to be. If you want to check, YOU can turn it clockwise (if it's where it needs to be you'll get about 10 degrees rotation clockwise), just be sure to rotate it back in a counterclockwise direction as far as it will go before you tighten the sprocket bolt. I've read that there are different engine models in the 99-02 range AJ26-AJ27, and there is a possibility of different VVT configurations. If you see the small holes in the VVT bolt well, this should work.