I apologize if this is a redundant post, but I just wanted to clarify a conclusion I came to. I read dozens of pages of information about the tensioners, thermostat housing, throttle body, Nikasil, and so on.

Is it safe to say that if I purchase a 2003 XJ8 in North America that has always been garaged, serviced properly, and has less than 100,000 miles I can avoid any major issues? I'm willing to bust out the tools for jobs that can be performed by hobbyist mechanics, but not so willing to sink a few grand into the car just to feel that it's safe to drive.

Thanks

 

By 2003 most of the historic issues had been resolved in cars coming off the assembly line but that does not mean that something else will not fail/wear out/be subject to abuse that it was not designed to endure.

Through 2 third owner cars and 50k miles I really have not had any problems of any significance. Worst issue has been leaking coolant system issues due to designed in life span. Oh, and the TCM on a '00 model that got fixed for under a hundred.

Even the '03 model year is now 12 years old and best owned by a hobby mechanic.

 

Thanks for the insight. I guess I'm mostly asking about what preventative maintenance I should do if I buy a 2003 XJ8. I talked to a mechanic and he mentioned the second-generation tensioners being generally okay, but said the aluminum thermostat housing upgrade is a must. Any other "must-do" jobs to keep it running reliably?

 

I have more first hand knowledge of the XK8 than the XJ8 but the '03 XK8 moved to a 4.2L engine and there is not an aluminum thermo housing for it. If you have the 4.0L by all means replace the housing. Paint it black as the shiny aluminum will look out of place on an otherwise black engine and will corrode to an ugly finish if left natural.

While you have the coolant system open it needs a complete update. Remember the 12 years! The plastic cross over pipe will eventually leak and the hoses will be soft. New thermostat and of course the coolant. Water pumps are not expensive so add that also. The overflow reservoir is famous for leaks but I would not replace it unless it is leaking.

A new serpentine belt would be a good idea. Check the idler pulley/tensioner pulley for any noise or play. Common mystery problem.

Your tensioners should be third generation metal and the second generation spring assisted version fail just as reliably as any other plastic tensioners.

Pushing 100k miles says spark plugs unless you have knowledge or documentation of them having been replaced.

The 'sealed for life' transmission is a Jaguar marketing lie. 'Life' means that it is sealed until it fails. ZF recommends a 60k mile fluid change.

Jaguar and others recommend 2 year brake fluid replacement. Most owners never change it so yours may be 12 years old.

Oil and filter as required. Note that the filter requires a check valve that most have but some 'exact fit' filters do not have.

Another source of mystery issues is an aging battery. Have an auto parts store do a free charging system test.

That's the big stuff and will provide entertainment for a full Saturday. Fix anything else as it surfaces as an issue.

Enjoy!

[edit] My half shafts have zerk fittings that never get lubed on most cars.

 

+1 for all this especially (ESPECIALLY) doing the fluid flush and renew for coolant, brakes, tranny, and oil lube. Buy a leather interior care kit (I like the one from Leatherique, but there are other good ones from specialty (not your local parts store...) houses, remember, the interior used top quality leather, not the crap they put in domestic cars...), and enjoy the car. I like mine so much I'm looking at buying a second one...

 

I've worked on cars a little, but I do have a friend who helped me replace many things on a 93 Lexus LS400 and is generally knowledgeable. Do you think between the two of us we could do all that stuff ourselves, or should I take it to a mechanic?

 

Easy!

Simple tools. Biggest issue you will have is the clamp on the lower radiator hose. You will need to replace the spring clamp with a screw type or invest in hose clamp pliers: Flexible Hose Clamp Pliers 2' Long Wire for Flat Oil Water Fuel Hose Line Clamps | eBay

Serpentine belt tensioner will require a half inch ratchet and a pipe extension. Thermostat tower rear bolts will require a modified 8mm wrench that you can borrow here on the forum. The rest can be done with a $10 set of 1/4" drive sockets.

Transmission fluid change is a little more complicated but there are threads here on all these subjects. Look in the 'How to' sticky above.

 

Thanks. I'm looking forward to working on it. The actual car I'm looking at only has 24,500 miles so hopefully none of these jobs (except fluids) will need to be done in a rush. I've actually read that it's best to leave the transmission alone until something goes wrong since it could potentially run for 10's of thousands of miles with no issue. I'm trying to get in touch with the owner since I'm almost skeptical of a car with so low miles (and have no intention of paying the asking price) and find out about the vehicle history. Here's the link to the page.

2003 Jaguar Vanden Plas

I called and got an answering machine for a towing company, so I think that's why there's not a really detailed listing. It probably came into his possession and he just threw it on CL.

 

The problem with most of the stuff listed is that they fail with time as well as miles. Anything rubber or hard plastic is a minimum of 12 years old on that car. I'd run through test points check list for this car and not skip anytihng.

Having rebuilt transmissions many times, usually by the time theres an issue, a fluid change ain't going to help. Sometimes it makes it worse since the friction material in the fluid may be assisting the shifting a bit. I'd drive the car and at 45-60k, change the fluid.

 

The CraigsList posting has been taken down in the past 30 minutes. Must have been too good to be true or maybe the 'true' was just overstated.

 

I've got a 2011 BMW 328i with 50k on the clock and the transmission was just replaced by BMW. If anyone says "yes" to your question they havent been around cars very long.

 

Yes, I was sad when I saw that. I was ready to buy. I guess I'll just have to keep searching. To be specific I'm looking for a 2003 XJ8 Vanden Plas in silver with an ivory interior in excellent condition. I can only hope one will show up sometime in the next few months. Would a 2002 model also let me avoid some of the problems that plagued earlier X308's?

 

Oh?

I thought they weren't ok?

 

From what I've read they're really not, but the second generation tensioners are less likely to fail than the first generation ones. I've also read that some 2003 owners are lucky since the metal third generation ones are already installed. I guess the only way to know for sure is to check them yourself and change if they're plastic. It's just a daunting job for DIY and expensive for a mechanic so unless I have to do it, I'd rather avoid it.

 

The spring assisted second generation tensioners are every bit as reliable as the first generation. The spring was added to reduce the chain rattle prior to bending a valve or two or at least postpone the failure past the warranty period.

 

Fixed.
Vector