Hi all
the timing marks look perfect to me and the crank position sensor lines up with the elongated hole
see pics below
so I will put it back together and replace the fpr as I have spotted a drip coming from the rubber hose that connects to the pipe that connects to the quick fit.
so when it's back together and holding constant pressure (this may have developed when removing the covers it was the second hand one from the wreckers) so a new one will replace that
There was no cover to protect the CPS I thought there should be something to stop crap getting on the points of metal for the sensor to pick it is magnetic (yes I Think)
now when it's back together I am going to connect all 8 plugs via the timber board to the shock bot earth and using 8 small jumper clips on the earth of the plugs crank it and watch and record the firing order and watch out for regular spark rhythm.

so what ya think boys??


perfect alignment so the cams are correct

2nd shot CPS alignment

Triangle look good it is about center of the opening

Triangle better shot

 

Your timing looks aligned and yes there was a rubber cover over the access hole
I'm trying to imagine what would make spark out of rhythm, you may have part of flywheel plugged with the debris that would make CPS reading weak at that point of rotation, other than that, fit the spare coil on bad looking spark plug and see if it makes things better

 

Please
Re-check Drivers side for me
https://drive.google.com/file/d/13nn...ew?usp=sharing

Re-check Passengers side for me
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HDG...ew?usp=sharing
Thanks Dutchy

 

I see them all right nothing is missing and sparks look strong at least on the video, for me ignition is fine and i would pass on testing the coils and put everything back together.
Before you play with the ECU, hang the scanner to obd port and look through data, does the coolant and intake temperature looks right? does the o2 sensor reports anything? i think foxwell should be able to log the data while cranking, you may be able to find something there

 

Yes it does look ok
so we have a correct crank position
we have the cams ok
1 is lower than the other but as MS said it has probably be reground and shave bearing supports where it sits into the head so it may have dropped by .5 to 1mm but that's no problem
so I have a fuel leak now out of the fpr (not your one) still got that
my concern there is 2 out of 3 fpr have that rubber on them and one without now mine had one and so did yours so the wreckers must have sent one with out
I have used a coat hanger bent a small hook on it and when I removed the injectors checked to see if 1 was in the fuel rail but to be honest I not sure if I had one or not all I know is when I removed one of them there was no rubber there is a lip inside the pipe where the fpr goes in that is for the rubber to but up to and that one did not control pressure so it must not have had one I really don't remember?
I know I know **** John is it in there somewhere OMG hope not
so the spark is ok well besides that last worry we have to move onto connections of the ECU or engine management system whatever it is called
I will make a note about checking coolant and intake temp when cranking if possible they will be cold so it should register 0deg if that's how it works.

 

Your engine is somewhere close to the ambient temperature and it is what should show on the tool, same for the intake air temperature, no need for cranking it will report with the ignition (key) in the 2nd position. (I think) if you leave the key long enough o2 sensors will preheat themselves and should fluctuate voltage a bit while cranking that you may see on the tool, also you may be able to see MAF airflow while cranking. that would be few things to test without getting at ECU with the multimeter
As for FPR o-ring, if it was there to start with, than maybe rather fallen on the engine or the floor, of course if you wanna be sure, take the mirror and flashlight and look inside the rail but honestly i doubt you gonna find it there,

 

I check it when the little camera arrives same as the tensioners
I think in my haste to replace the fpr I didn't check.
its, impossible for them to fall off there's a lip that keeps them on the fpr and impossible for it to get past the injector when I put it in
so phew I think I'm ok
and my compression tester before we crank

yes, of course, silly me god I'm a refrigeration and electrical tradesperson I should know it's gonna be ambient temp
sorry, this car is starting to fry my brain

 

Dutchy, on the positive note, additionally to your trade you will end up with the hobbyist level jag mechanics, you may have the hard time now but will provide you with much satisfaction in the future (like most of us), and yeah take holidays off of your stubborn car, go to beach or similar and forget it for time being before it shortcuts all your neurons You deserve it !!!

 

Thanks Xjack
don't want to fry what's left of the neutrons or cause a short circuit only the other day my wife asked if I would like a new jacket, I think she was talking about one of the ones that do up from the back
haaaaa you and all the guy's helping keep me going I am sure many people out there want to know
I wonder if others have had a problem with this degree of stubbornness?

 

Judging by the thread length, no. Don't give up, though!

 

Today I changed the FPR all seem to be ok
I noticed the B Bank tensioner secondary pushes the chain up yes that's correct I make sure it moves up and down and it did good
Then I checked the other side and the chain is slack as I think highorse said before and noticed the tensioner was down so I pushed it and nothing no spring no up or down in actual fact you can lift the chain up a bit with your fingers so
we have a crook tensioner not much wear marks but it doesn't adjust I know it probably has nothing to do with starting but could be a future problem
unless that difference in chain tension makes the timing out on bank A?
I don't know if they are gen 2 or gen3

 

I have a new pair of secondary chains for my 2000 4.0 (PCI TS20190) if you want them and if they fit the 3.2? It says 97-00, but doesn't list the 3.2, I guess because it wasn't available in the US...I'll give them to you, you'd just have to wait for shipping form the US.

When I installed my completed tensioner setup, I was amazed how tight the new chains were (primary and secondary). If I recall, the slack taken up by the new chains was at least an 1/8" (3 mm). My tensioners barely moved when released. I literally had to install the cam gears together in alignment (vs. how they came off) to get them on.

 

Just some points before you go to the compression tests and the ECU:

1. Did you check that the injectors are firing while you crank the engine? (I don't remember now due to the length of the posts)

2. Did you go through the bore wash procedure (adding a bit of oil in each cylinder) before you attempted engine start after you improved the sparks? If you did not, perhaps you should (unless you prefer to do the compression test first). It is possible that, due to all the engine cranking you have done, you have a bore wash situation and this could be the reason for no start even though you have good spark now.

 

Don't give up to madness Dutchy
Just pull the engine



and leave it for your wife

 

Hey xjack, are they tunneling away from the Beemer or is that a money pit?....lol

 

They are trying to weld tow bar and hang the trailer

 

haaaaaaaaaa lol that's great
looks like you guys do have real humor I thought so

well as MS asked yes Been Through the bore wash stuff
I don't know how to check the injectors when in the car without removing fuel rail/intake manifold ?

but I think I am really onto something the tensioners, as it could give the B Bank the potential to be turning 3-5 mm behind bank A?

 

The easy way to check whether the injectors are firing is by listening with a mechanic's stethoscope (a good cheap tool to have anyway). You will be able to hear distinctive sharp clicks if the injectors are firing. For this test, you would need to have everything connected.

If the flats of the camshafts on both banks aligned correctly after the crank rotation up to the correct position of the elongated hole on the engine flexplate, there is nothing wrong with the cam timing. The tensioners do not affect the cam timing, they just hold some tension on the part of the chain "behind" the rotation, i.e. the part of the chain that does not carry the force of the rotation but just follows.

 

If you turn the engine by hand the secondary tensioner should get some oil behind it and tension the chain - they are hydraulic.

 

Ms
I have a stethoscope that I use to hear the gas/liquid flowing in refrigeration
I did try it and all was ok
I also connected the pulse tester (as In the video that mechanic used) and could hear the click when they were out as well so all good there
when I paid to have them cleaned and checked they tested for leaks 1 had a small leak.
all ok now.
ok I understand about the tensioners only stop backlash and stretching of the chains and I now understand why it won't affect the timing
I guess I was hopeful I had found something substantial as to why it doesn't run
as we all stand now nobody still knows why a perfectly good running engine parked in the drive and never started again ( fuel pump was the only thing that gave out.