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Sean B
now ya tell me
Iv'e just ordered new ones
had to get all the gaskets and crap anyway
but remember I did rotate it can do only about 1/8 rotation at a time by hand
how about I crank it and see?
thanks Dutchy
Last edited by Dutchy; May 14, 2019 at 10:40 AM.
Reason: extra info
Iv'e just ordered new ones...but remember I did rotate it can do only about 1/8 rotation at a time by hand how about I crank it and see?
The latest generation chain tensioners are spring loaded so they should keep some pressure on the chain and take-up the slack when the engine is stationary. They also get oil pressure once the engine is running which works together with the spring.
I do not know whether the first version (plastic body) also had a spring or whether the spring was introduced with one of the subsequent upgrades.
Ms as far as I have read yes I had forgotten that the spring is a backup (thank you)
the plastic ones were only spring and due to the failure rate I believe there was a redesign gen2 then support and style the 3rd gen had the hydraulic as the main tension source and the spring was the backup
I think I got that the righ way around I started research them after Highorse sent me photos of the diffrent types from the early AJ26 1997 through to the late 00-02
I think the article said.
so the only way to get enough pressure from the oil pump would be to crank it over (starter motor) could get messy I reckon.
if the tension is not an issue then we have ticked off the bottom end and cams/timing
I just ordered a lot of bits to put it back together they will take 1-2weeks (slow boat from China Ha Ha)
then put it back recheck the spark put it back.
Throttle body is clean now and doesn't stick after sitting for a few days, it was like sticky candy stuff, might have been the Aerostart (cold start or for engines that sit for a while).
Who knows I may have been cranking it WOT when in fact it was shut!
after that, we move on to the ECU & while I am waiting will read/clear codes try to check what I can, plug and unplug the ECU and hard reset.
Thanks, Sean B and MS
you have prompted me to recheck an article I have on the tensioners
Highorse sent me photos of gen 1-2-3.
As far as I gather the earlier ones 1997 were spring only and the shape design of plastic cracked due to heat and stress.
the later mine came with gen 2 were made more robust ( not sure if hydraulic was introduced).
The hydraulic idea may have come from other companies using hydraulic lifters and pushrods.
any way the gen 3 as I've only see in photos are of cast alloy I think it looks like they did as MS said mostly rely on oil pressure from the pump and the spring was an aid till pressure picks up
so one side of the car I can push down and it springs back, the other you can't push down I have softly tried to pry up but am sure it will break, they look like gen3 can't wait to pull them out.
In the mean, while I will clean ECU connections give Him a bit of a degrease and just put it back together when the bits arrive 1-2 week on a slow boat from China all the way to down under.
I have cleaned the throttle it had like sticky stuff around the butterfly when in the closed position, after a few days it was stuck which makes me think it was shut (as you can't see it) when I was thinking it was WOT.
thanks all for input keep em comming
Dutchy
This will open up google drive that has 4 recipes in it Check out the cost this poor bloke was charged
today they English auto parts (the people that snicker behind ya back) $150 Aud for 1 tensioner
Yeah, I thought to share it
doesn't show the KLM's I think it should have.
when I rang them the other day they offered me a 4.0 no VVT with ECU and said I needed the harness for
$4500 it is in working condition.
that's why I was thinking next year or pending how this engine runs
to buying a4.0 SC sticking it on a motor support and doing it up my self or with one of you guys to holiday/help
but If no one can I reckon I'm up for the challenge after this, just getting it in and out I'm no spring chicken haaaa
It would be waaaay cheaper to buy/trade for a SC'd model. Just to start, you'd need to adapt for 2 fuel pumps amongst many other needs....not to mention the countless hours.
I 'm not so sure highhorse
I don't see the need for 2 pumps as the sc has
the reason behind that is my pump puts out 90psi and not exactly sure without looking it up more liters/min than 2 of the original
now if there are 2 supplies and 2 returns then y them together this can be achieved by drilling into a piece of pipe and brazing it.
New wiring harness comes with the motor and ECU
all the car controls and electrical are the same I believe (have to study diagrams)
get a gearbox with the new engine.
You see to sell my car it is virtually impossible basically if I had known there were different V8's I would not have brought this one
so I'm stuck with it.
I've read a lot of people have tried to change the engine from 3.2 to 4.0
I really think they are going about it the wrong way
but that's another story for a rainy day.
either change to a Chev perish the thought or get some grunt somehow.
Per your PM, the Engine Management System Training manual gives typical sensor signals you can use for comparison to your sensors. The file is too large to attach via the forum, but you can download it here courtesy of Gus:
For the fuel pumps, it runs on #1 until certain applied pedal is achieved (mine usually happens coming out of my complex ), then the #2 pump kicks in. There are some guys who have modified their existing R model and from what I've read, bypassed the Jag system altogether with a Squirt system.
Unbelievable must be a lot of fiberglasses to make them look like a Rolls kazakhstanian get your eyes off my Merc They might make it look like a Rolls but its still a Merc
What happens to a Jaguar when only #1 pump (main) works
on a 2 pump system SC
It will only be able to call on one pump and you will get a code stating the 2nd failed with a restricted performance. Or if you have my luck, both pumps will fail at the same time and you'll be stuck in a turn lane.