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pls if you can look at the Link it's the latest video on starting, it does sound promising.
This is the first time I watched your videos. The pressure gauge needle bouncing while cranking means the injectors are working (their pulse-opening causes the pressure fluctuation, which is normal, and the needle to bounce).
By the sound of the engine struggling to start, I suspect that you have very poor spark(s). Do your ignition coils have 2 or 4 wires? If 4 wires, the coils are driven directly by the engine ECU; if 2 wires, then the coils are driven separately for each bank by two external ignition modules. I would certainly check the spark on at least a few cylinders. And also check the spark on 4 connected coils, while the other 4 are disconnected, to try to establish whether, in this case, the sparks look a bit stronger. If your coils are the 4-wire type, and if there is a partial fault in the engine ECU, the ECU might still manage to provide somewhat better spark when not loaded by all 8 ignition coils.
I believe it is early aj26 with two pin coils driven by left and right bank ignition modules, it could be one side module going bad indeed, not sure if they do go bad
I wouldn't be very surprised if it is an ignition problem after all, but on the fueling side, try to unplug one (or two) injectors at time and crank the engine, if it get any better than probably you have over fueling at that cylinder, stuck open injector would be the culprit.
I believe it is early aj26 with two pin coils driven by left and right bank ignition modules, it could be one side module going bad indeed, not sure if they do go bad
I wouldn't be very surprised if it is an ignition problem after all, but on the fueling side, try to unplug one (or two) injectors at time and crank the engine, if it get any better than probably you have over fueling at that cylinder, stuck open injector would be the culprit.
This is the first time I watched your videos. The pressure gauge needle bouncing while cranking means the injectors are working (their pulse-opening causes the pressure fluctuation, which is normal, and the needle to bounce).
By the sound of the engine struggling to start, I suspect that you have very poor spark(s). Do your ignition coils have 2 or 4 wires? If 4 wires, the coils are driven directly by the engine ECU; if 2 wires, then the coils are driven separately for each bank by two external ignition modules. I would certainly check the spark on at least a few cylinders. And also check the spark on 4 connected coils, while the other 4 are disconnected, to try to establish whether, in this case, the sparks look a bit stronger. If your coils are the 4-wire type, and if there is a partial fault in the engine ECU, the ECU might still manage to provide somewhat better spark when not loaded by all 8 ignition coils.
In any case, you certainly need to run a scan.
2 wire coil's
it could be to much load on the modules, I will connect 2 coils only on bank 1
then add another to make 3
I will mix up the 4 on the same bank, see what I come up with
This is quite difficult to hold 2 plugs spring connected to ground when the engine is cranking, maybe tape the plugs to the holder and run a ground to the threads.
The idea of the injector is worth a try after I fool around with plugs.
waiting for reader
Thanks everyone this will be one for the books when / if it starts
Dutchy
I'm simply providing this as an info piece for review Dutchy, you've done some of this already. Its from the link I gave you in the beginning of this thread...its an AJ26 Diagnosis Tech Bulletin... http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...0Diagnosis.pdf
Throttle closed position operation
MY VIN 820012
something I remembered
after the engine stopped I left it in the driveway for about 2 weeks, upon returning to try and start it the battery was totally flat
had to give it a heavy charge to kick it into life
as a result, I wonder if the car needs reprogramming?
and can I read about the procedure of removing the neg from the body and putting it on positive for a while some (hard reset), I have never heard of this before.
thanks for the TSB reading
Action to be taken To aid in the identification of repairs required by vehicle, Table 1 of this Service Action provides a breakdown of the repair required by model year, model description, and VIN range. See Workshop Procedure attached as Appendix 1. For those vehicles that require the ECM to be reprogrammed, Worldwide Diagnostic System (WDS) release JTP759/31, or later, should be used. Table 1 Model Year Model Description VIN Range Repair Required 1997 to 1998 XK Series N/A 001036 to 020734 Reprogram ECM 1998 V8 XJ Series (both N/A and SC) 812256 to 819771 Reprogram ECM 1998 XK Series N/A 020735 to 031302 Replace throttle body 1998.75 to 1999 XK Series (SC) 024695 to 042775 Replace throttle body 1998 V8 XJ Series N/A only 819772 to 853935 Replace throttle body 1998 to 1999 V8 XJ Series SC only` 819772 to 878717 Replace throttle body
I left it in the driveway for about 2 weeks, upon returning to try and start it the battery was totally flat
had to give it a heavy charge to kick it into life.
Did you disconnect the battery from the car while giving it a "heavy charge"? If you used an unregulated big battery charger while the battery was still in the car and connected, there is a possibility that the rather high voltage that such heavy duty chargers produce has caused damage to the ECU. This is just a speculation. You probably don't need to keep trying anymore but wait for the scanner and see what it tells you. The best way to scan and diagnose your car would be using the Jaguar IDS-VCM software-interface, if you can find a workshop that has it.
2. haven't looked at the crank sensor
3. I have ordered a Foxwell NT650 reader
According to the info you provided, you have spark(s) and you have good fuel pressure. I bet it is your crank sensor but you can wait for the scanner first.
I am always keeping, as a minimum, spare crank sensor, cam sensor, a couple of ignition modules and a few ignition coils. A new ignition module (LJA1450AF) is very expensive but you can get a used one on Ebay rather cheaply.
Xjack
Crank sensor and Injector arrived today thankyou
Waiting for liquid filled pressure gauge and code reader
My plan
While waiting is to remove 4 plugs from bank 1 and insert tempory plugs so the starter motor and battery will simulate normal load when cranking and any volt drop will be found.
Then the new plugs and old coils, I will drill holes in a piece of thin timber and mount them, using screws to hold the coils in place (contact) then run a ground wire to each plug thread (1 continuous loop)
when the sun is setting ( sounds like a cowboy scenario) give it a crank and video the spark, paying attention to any week ones.
What does anyone think?
Dutchy
Last edited by Dutchy; 04-12-2019 at 02:58 AM.
Reason: missed a word
Well, it sounds like an old fashion spark test I did growing up (only I had a rotor cap and carb and iron heads)....it should work. If your just going to crank it for spark, I would pull the fuel pump relay.
Honestly i would wait to see the error but if you have some spare time than some more tests wont hurt
Spark rig sounds all right, i would not bother removing the plugs and just insert piece of metal in each coil and arrange the ground for all four, i'm curious how is your spark.
For testing injectors, release fuel pressure at valve (where you hang the gauge) and swap injector with the new one, try to start, if no change than go for next injector, release pressure swap injector try to start, swear your car is v8 and not an single cylinder chainsaw continue till last one of them, if no change than at least you learned your problem is not in leaking injectors.
I'm not sure if faulty crank position sensor would allow ecu to trigger the spark at all but lets assume it is weak or intermittent, you gonna find it on engine bell housing behind steering rack, just follow the lead in both directions, worst part is the plug hidden behind AC compressor, you gonna need help of an friendly gnome in unplugging the thing
good luck..
Thanks Highhorse
good idea to remove the pump relay
I'm not that young myself and so some old fashioned ways can be the best lol
Dutchy
Yeah,...and they say you can't teach an old dog new tricks...
If you are having fun testing...get a noid tester and check that all the injectors are getting power. I hadn't thought of it until yesterday when I was cleaning my garage and ran across the kit. Some folks use a power probe, I have not used one myself.
Spark Test 1 Bank
here is the video I took of the passenger side bank, I started with 1 then added #2 coil #3 and #4 all on the one side, I didn't notice any change in spark.
Hi all
the code reader arrived see photo of when I first pluged it in and went to stored codes Stored Codes when I first connected the reader
so there was
P0102/$11 Mass or Volume air flow A circuit Low
P0112/$11 Intake air temprature sensor 1 circuit Low
P1230/$11 Fuel pump Low speed Malfunction
P1722/$11 Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio
Then I checked the Pending Codes
P1722/$11 Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio
so I erased the codes after saving them to the reader
Turned the key off 10 sec
then turned key on and selected read code
and all that came up was P1722/$11 Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio
I have not put the plugs back in and tried to start yet, I wanted to see others thoughts first on which starting procedure to do?
but maybe after I replaced the pump the fault codes should have been reset, as it has no problem with mass air flow or pump malfunction now being indicated on the reader ??
It is difficult to judge the spark from the video but as long as there is strong spark and same across the coils all is fine, it would mean that your crank position sensor is ok
But we have got the codes to ponder at last
p0102, p0112 You probably got the mass airflow and air intake temp code flagged while starting car with maf unplugged, so i would ignore them unless they come back, if back, make sure maf plug and socket are intact well seated and cable is not damaged all the way till ecu, it may also be dirty or just give up on his life but i think it is not as likely
p1230 Fuel pump low speed refers to your only fuel pump (xjr have two, low and high speed pumps), it could explain your no start and pressure spikes while cranking, it is definitely worth investigating
p1722 Gear incorrect ratio gearbox fault, i would leave for later once you got your engine running, i don't think it is related and maybe it got flagged due to extensive cranking and no start or low battery etc, lets hope it will auto-magically be gone by itself
To go along with xjack on the fuel pump. You replaced that pump, but since you didn't have the Foxwell the code wasn't cleared. It may still be going into default for that. I'd clear the codes and try to restart her. Don't try a lot if she doesn't go, maybe 3 or 4 times, then rescan for codes.
04-07-2019, 10:05 AM
