Hi

As it happenened, my boot lock barrel came out with the key when opening the boot. The whole assembly was covered with thickened grease, causing the bits hardly to move at all. So, it's no amusement that the barrel managed to come out of the boot with all the bits and pieces.
However, nothing seemed to be broken, and I kept the item in thinner for a week to get rid of the stuck-on grease. Now it seems to work properly.
But: how does it actually fit in place? Because it got out as a surprise, I have no clear view of getting it back in there in the right position. The rods are obvious, but where does the spring go, and in what position?

br
Jani

 

First off Welcome to the forums Heimis, why not tell us a bit about yourself and your Jag over in the new member area?

I have never pulled a boot lock to bits on the Jag but I do have a front door lock with barrel on my desk in front of me.

First off in order to do this rebuild you will need to remove the mechanism from the car.
Remove rods, electrical connectors, and unbolt from inside the boot.

If the principle is the same, then it would appear that the detent spring is placed as follows.

From the exterior view.

Lock barrel.
Nylon Washer,
Circular spring, one end slotted into washer, the other end slotted into the latch return.
Nylon connector.
All held in place by a circlip, which slots into the spindle.

I would guess that your circlip has come adrift, or that part of the spring, nylon washer sections has broken due to forced use, if it was as gummed as you said. The black crud in the grease was likely to have been worn metal grindings.

Cheers,

See pic,

 

Thanks for answering Translator.

The boot lock assy is somewhat different, picture of the barrel attached.

 

You are correct it is different. OK for the rods obvious, but I can't see where that spring goes. Looking at it's radius, does it seem to want to fit anywhere around the barrel or in the barrel holder?

If you can find the end slots where the spring fits I'm thinking that there will be one on the barrel and possibly another corresponding on the casing.

If I get time I will pull my spares 94 apart to see what I find.

For info the part no is JLM 10788, you might want to try Ken at British Parts, he is one of the site sponsors and is pretty good with helping members.

Sorry not to have been more help at this point.

 

The spring fits nicely around the barrel, I think the ends are supposed to be where the rods are. There's no slot, though.
The problem is that I don't have a clue about the final position of the spring in the assy, and the position that the whole barrel-assy slids in.
I've tried some possibilities, but seems I have to disassemble the lock cylinder from the boot for easier try-fail-succeed type of assembling.

 

Problem solved.
Here's some info that's nice to know when refurbishing the lock.

Ok, first I disassembled the whole lock assembly from the boot lock. Because it was as dirty as the lock barrel, the first thing was to clean it with turpentine. The inners of the lock and the cylinder are shown in the first picture.

However, as the problem was how to refit the barrel in the cylinder, I started figuring out the suitable place for the spring. First I tried assembling the barrel with the rods only and left the spring out of the assy. Turned out that the barrel-cylinder combination worked also without the spring, but the key (and barrel) turned in the cylinder only when the cylinder was held in one specific position. That was of course the opposite to the position that it lies in the boot. Well, let's try with the spring, then. This was easier said than done, because the barrel didn't turn to the position that it can be pulled out of the cylinder. After some mindwork I figured that the rods should be pushed towards the barrel itself when turning the barrel in the "release" position. There was no chance of doing that, anyhow. The cylinder, anyway, has two holes that are not drilled all the way through. They seemed to be just in the right place, so I carefully drilled and grinded them open. The right side hole gives you straigh access to the rod, when the barrel is almost in the release position. By pushing the rod and at the same time turning the key clock-wise the barrel turns, and can be pulled out. See the holes in the other picture.

OK, phew, it didn't get stuck.

It seemed that the spring ends should be on top of the rods. So I placed the spring there and eased the barrel in the cylinder. However, the barrel only turned in the same position it had turned without the spring. I tried several other poistions, and the result was the same.

After trying enough I took the cylinder and barrel to a locksmith specialized in car locks. They said that it should be thoroughly cleaned etc. to get it working properly. At then I was satisfied for their asking price (25€), and left the lock there. However, after two days the guy called that the lock can be picked up, but it doesn't function perfectly. They didn't charge the 25€ anyway, so it was ok for me. Only thing they had done besides cleaning and filing the inners was scratching the cylinder body from the outside.
I got curious and took the combo apart, this was not hard task for me anymore. It turned out that they had also ditched the spring, WTF, thanks for nothing.

Anyway, I had to assemble the lock that day because I was going on a trip the next day. So, I figured that if the cylinder is filled with a lubricant thick enough, it should guide the rods to work properly. Again, I figured right
I filled the whole cylinder with Dewalt machine lubricant. (This was because I didn't find any Hilti lubricant, haha) It seemed to be just the right stuff for the purpose: after fitting the barrel in, it turned just as it is supposed to. Also, before the cleaning and reassembling the key could be pulled out in one position only, and the boot had to be opened with the key. Now the lock works as a part of the central locking like it should, and the boot lock opens as the other locks open.

Nice.