I just replaced battery but when I put the new battery in I would disconnect since I wasn't sure if something had drained the old one. After a few times the car had a rough time starting and went into limp mode. I drove about 10 miles. Next day the car turns over but won't start, tries, coughs, that it. Still in limp mode. I changed transmission relay but didn't help. Any suggestions? Will VCM show any codes?

 

Hi Flaron,

Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.

The fact that you have a new battery that seems to be losing charge makes me wonder if there is a problem with your charging system, such as the alternator or the battery power and ground connections throughout the vehicle. Most of the chain auto parts stores will do a basic test of your electrical system for free.

Regarding the Limp Home Mode (LHM), failure to start while cranking can prompt that condition, so it may be directly related to your battery issues. However, on our '93, the most common cause of LHM is oil contamination of the electrical connector for the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). The TPS is mounted to the underside of the throttle body, and its electrical connector mounts to a bracket on an intake manifold elbow. On our '93 the connector is just to the left of the throttle body.

If you can get the car started, I'd head straight to an auto parts store or a good auto electrical specialist and have your charging system tested, and go from there. The LHM may correct itself once your voltage issues are resolved.

In the meantime, since we're a friendly group, please visit the New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum and post an introduction so we can give you a proper welcome and learn something about you and your Jaguar.

Cheers,

Don

 

The car started today but not get over 500RPM. Anytime I tried to give it gas it stalled. Don't think it is a charging unite. Car was running rough. Turned key, without starting, and pushed VCM buttom, read fuel 69, fail 69, later showed fuel 12, fail 12, when the car was running pushed vcm and it showed fuse 1 fuse 2. Not sure what those mean at this point. Thanks for the previous information and any other info is appreciated

 

Well, 69 is the neutral switch problem so that's probably something to do with the limp mode, try adjusting the switch.
Fuel 12 is the MAF sensor code, this is probably part of the rough running issues - try cleaning the Maf sensor/ intake plumbing throttle body etc - try cleaning the contacts/replugging the MAF and see what happens.
Fuse 1 and 2 refer to fuse issues in two of the three fuseboxes. One in each footwell and one in the centre console

If you don't have a Haynes manual you can download it from the files section.

good luck and don't forget we all had to start somewhere!

Larry

 

Thank you for the input. I removed Maf and looked good and cleaned, screen was clear, cleaned air filter. Car will not start however still turns over. Checked all the fuses and all good, opened all three fuse boxes and checked the 1 and 2 slots on all of them. I'm still getting Fuse 1 Fuse 2. Removed distributor cap and it looks fine as well as rotor. Any other suggestions are appreciated.

Ron

 

the Fuse 1 and Fuse 2 just refer to the fusebox locations, not the slot numbers or individual fuses. Also - fuseboxes on these cars are subject to issues like cold solder joints but that's not usually something to prevent the car from starting.

Good idea to check and clean/swap out the oxygen sensor relay on the firewall and the fuel pump relay in the trunk. A bad connection or either of these relays failing will prevent the car from starting.

Did you try cleaning the tps connector like Don suggested?

Larry

 

Thanks Larry
I haven't looked at the TPS and will have to figure out where it is as well as the other relays and see what happens.
Thanks
Ron

 

Sorry to hear of trouble.

Some of these cars suffered from poor solder joints in back of the fuse blocks
in the footwells.Fuses test ok but power can't get to where it's supposed to.

pull them out,careful checking,re-flow solder as reqd.

Check the drain,under the hood,under the wiper motor,over the top of the rear of the engine block.It's made of rubber,and lets water out of the cavity at the base of the windshield.They plug up,and water gets into the cabin,messing with electrics.

Changed the fuel filter lately?One crappy tank of fuel will plug a filter in short order,same with water coming in from the drain in the filler neck cavity.Check,clean,replace fuel filter.Cheap and easy.

Hear the fuel pump in the tank for two seconds after the key is turned on?
If not take a peek at the fuel pump relay.

That's what comes to mind right now,keep us posted,

Jim.

 

http://www.mediafire.com/view/xt9pic...l_(Haynes).pdf

here's a link to download the workshop manual - could be a big help in figuring out "what's what" and "where's what" too! - good luck

Larry

 

Thanks again for all the input. Will be checking out the relays in the morning. Hopefully they have the same pin configuration as the extra one I bought when I replaced one last year. Your comments and suggestions prompted me to go do a little more study especially on the TPS which shed light on the TPS as well as the suggestions offered.
Thanks and will keep posted
Ron

 

Changed the o2 sensor and the fuel sensor and car still will not start. Can't find the TPS to check that or the connection to clean. Car will turn over but will not start. Haven't had somebody to come by and help check spark from spark plug wires to check distributor and spark.

 

Hi Flaron,

What symptoms prompted you to replace the O2 sensor and fuel sensor? And which fuel sensor was it, exactly?

Was the O2 sensor a model with the correct electrical connector already attached, or was it a universal model that required you to attach the connector?

The photos at the link below show where the TPS is mounted, on the underside of the throttle body (which is removed from the intake manifold for the photos):

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page


Have you investigated the charging system, fuseboxes or any of the other suggestions previously offered?

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks Don I did follow the previous suggestions. I changed the relay for the O2 sensor and the relay in the trunk per suggestions. Next check will be to see if I am getting any spark on the spark plug wires from Distributor. Last time it started it would not get over 500 RPM and stalled out when applying any gas. Ran horribly rough. Will check the TPS too

 

Anybody have any ideas on how much I could get by parting my car out? Haven't been able to figure out why it's not starting and just as soon get rid of it and move on. Somebody suggested parting it out and thus make more money on it. I figure it would need at least $1,000 in it to make it look great, to put in new front floor, new front seat, rear window motor and a few door handle parts

 

Wow,still trouble huh? It sounds like a fueling issue to me.Bad MAF sensor,fuel pump,clogged injectors,all could be sources of grief,and could add up easily to more than the car is worth.

I don't know how it is down there,but here these series Jaguars are quite cheap,ranging from 4000.$for something very nice,to a parts buggy for the 500-1000$ amount.A wrecker here might give you 200$to come and get it.

I would think that parting it out,the collision parts like bumpers,doors,glass,etc. might be worth a few bucks,if the wood veneers,carpets,seats,dash,might still bring more as well.

I know around here,parts are few and far between,and I'm always looking for the odd little goodie for our cars.

Good luck in all cases,Jim.