I think I would have set the car on fire if I had to try an do it after the lines were installed.

 

for sure!!

One more thing, squirt a bit of oil on the o-rings and fittings before you push them home, makes it a bit easier when you're under there trying to snake your fingers past the handbrake union and all the rest of the clutter ...Putting them back in is a hellauva lot easier than taking them out -

I remember psyching myself up to do it, taking a swig of coffee before diving in and getting all set up and then wham bam I was out again before the coffee had a chance to cool down any.

ATB

Larry

 

The hardest part about all this is getting the time. Tanks out and emptied, I’m hoping to get it all apart and back together this weekend. But we all have hopes and the wife usually has different plans.

You are so correct about the lube bit. I have this stuff from Wurth and it was probably $30 or more for the tube but as the old expression goes, “It’s slicker than snot”.

 

I'm sure it's the cat's meow but of course the hard part is getting it to flow uphill (unless you splosh it on through the trunk side BEFORE you put the tank back in position )

Good way to fit and orient the clips too BTW

Hope you can find some time before you have to go push the cart around costco home depot etc

Larry

 

Its not an oil, it has the consistency of hand soap but a little less runny. yeah im hoping to finish before it snows.

A year or so back I needed to do the heater core on my Wifes Discovery and had a nice sunny day in December to start. Had it out in 45 minutes but had the wrong O ring. It snowed the next day and 4 months later I finished.

 

Looking for something else I ran across this pic of the fuel line clips ..I know you've already got your tank out, but maybe for the next person who has to do it could be useful to see how the clips work.

As you can see there's a flat that engages with a slot in the tank fitting ..rotating the clips 90 degrees brings the flat out of the slot and frees the fuel line.


bottom of fuel tank - fuel line fittings and locking clips

Larry

 

I got the tank back in and on the plus side I have fuel pressure and the car runs. Buuuuuuut it still has issues. It idles fine but still lacks power. It actually backfires through the intake almost like the timing is off. If thats the case its not a good sign.

So tomorrow is another day and ill start from scratch to see whats going on. Its odd that two things went out at the same time. Il grab some different tools and see whats to see.

 

Maybe the MAF/MAFconnector is still acting up? Or there's a big air leak, maybe? Any FF codes?

Glad to hear the tank's all back in though and pump she's a-pumpin'

ATB

Larry

 

Sorry it didn't heal properly. Pinched or kinked return line maybe? Just throwing it out there.... Even though mine is At Home, Inside and Warm I am still having trouble getting time to do the deed. Today I finally got the replacement tank (from a 94) into my trunk after installing a new pump and removing the extra vent line from the 92 tank. I am finding that I cannot get the newer tank far enough into the space for the strap bolts to thread. I pulled it back out twice to look for obstacles but see none. From below the line connections appear to be centered in the opening. A check of the Jaguar heritage site shows different part numbers for the different years tank straps. I assume then that the newer tank may simply be larger. It is very wet today so instead of a trip to the junkyard for the correct straps I made a trek to my hardware store and got some longer bolts. Now I only have time to get on here and complain but not to actually install them. One of these days, probably in mid January it will get done and I can move on to the 66's rear end. Oy.

 

I have to publicly thank Larry yet again for pointing out the finer tidbits. In this case putting a drop of oil on the o-rings at the fuel lines under the tank. The connectors popped together almost as if they belonged that way. Amazing. Thanks

 

To follow up on this topic. I replaced the MAF and replaced the the connector and the car still runs like crap. Better but not good. Long crank and a hard start and when it’s running until it warms up it’s rough. If I ease the throttle it will accelerate all the way to 5k without issue. If I try and drive it it pops and hesitates until it gets rolling and will drive but it’s not right.

I managed to get a fuel gauge on the rail and I’m only getting 18-20 psi. I seven tei d another gauge thinking it might be bad but still only 20psi. I’m almost thinking I have a bad pump. The pump is new never used but I bought it a while back so there is no returning it, if that’s the issue. The car isn’t setting a CEl. Though being OBD1 that make take just short of forever any way.

Unfortunately I’m going to have to move the car home which means it will probably have to sit until spring.

Any thoughts on towing these guys with a dolly? I’ll probably have to disconnect the drive shaft or try towing it with the front wheels on the ground. So it goes.

Ill still fiddle with it for a few more days before it comes home as I have other stuff planned for this weekend.

 

You replaced the fuel filter in front of the rear wheel well, right Jeh?

Jerry suggested to have a peek at the lines, sometimes a bump on the undercarriage can crimp one up ...and the regulator's checked out ok too, right?

Did you check the pressure in front of or behind the regulator?

PIA though I'm sure

Keep at it

Larry

 

Have you replaced or checked the fuel pressure regulator?

 

I can’t see it’s the lines being damaged unless I did something while pulling the tank as I was driving at the time. As far as the regulator goes I’m going tot try and get a reading before the regulator to see if that’s the issue.

Another ER friend is bringing in a known good pump and I may just rig it up externally from a tank and see if the car runs better.

 

Well I was just going to tow it home and park it until spring but I received an email from my local UHaul guy.

Thr XJ6 is too wide to go on a dolly and over the weight rating of my F150. My F150 has a class 3 bumper and hitch good for 5000 lbs but the car and trailer come in at about 5300 ish.

So I ordered another pump and it should be here tomorrow.

 

Was looking through an old XJ thread earlier today and ran across a couple of "facts" --

Probably the opposite to what's going on with your car so unsure if this info is of any use to you Jeh, but FWIW here they are:

I'm guessing the "air sensor plug" he's referring to is the air temp sensor in the plastic intake elbow?

Anyway, hope your car is feeling better!

Larry

 

According to the AJ6 EMS manual, the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) is a primary input for engine fueling, and the Intake Air Temperature Sensor is a secondary input for ignition timing. Based on that info, disconnecting the IAT may have no direct effect on fueling at all.

It's worth re-reading the EMS manual from time to time because it is full of helpful information and diagnostic procedures:

Jaguar AJ6 4.0L Engine Management System/OBDI Diagnostic Guide

Cheers,

Don

 

Hey Don, maybe he was referring to the MAF, not the Air Temperature Sensor ?

Larry

 

Thanks for the input Larry. I did see an older thread you commented on about all the different pumps just being re boxed Walbros. My Hella was just a reboxed Walbro so I ordered an Airtex from Amazon and it supposed to be in Monday.

I did the hard work and got the lines disconnected again and only had one clip launch to the unknown. Hopefully have the tank out Monday.

 

It’s alive again. Starts and runs, seems to idle ok. For what ever reason it stumbles off idle and then picks up. Even under no load at idle to about 1500 it seems to hesitate and in occasion pop in the intake. After 1500 it will rev to 5k plus without issue and even under load the same thing.

Il going to get some more gas and drive it home and see if it cleans up. If not the next step is to get the fuel pressure gauge back on ( which I can’t get until Monday) and check the fuel pressure and the regulator.

To top it off the valve cover has started puking again. 3rd one since I bought it. They are good for 2 years and done.