Genuine Brake Accumulator JLM1907
Larry
I think that's the pressure is different and may be Thread. The 40 after 1990 (Teves brake) the ref is JLM1907 but before is JLM10546 not the same.
Last edited by Sovejag13190; Apr 12, 2020 at 01:37 PM.
Okay - I just checked with JCP and saw this, (bold face is mine) :
from you post, you quote JLM10546 is pre -1990, right, and JLM1907 is the later version?
I don't know about you but it sounds to me like they all fit the entire range.
Larry
from you post, you quote JLM10546 is pre -1990, right, and JLM1907 is the later version?
Genuine OEM JLM10546 - Jaguar Accumulator and seal (JLM10546) part for Xj6 & Xj12 1987 - 1994 Classic. Authentic Jaguar Part.
JLM11659 (JLM11659 - Jaguar Accumulator and seal)
JLM11659
Genuine OEM JLM11659 - Jaguar Accumulator and seal (JLM11659) part for Xj6 & Xj12 1987 - 1994 Classic. Authentic Jaguar Part.
and
JLM1907
Genuine OEM JLM1907 - Jaguar Accumulator kit (JLM1907) part for Xj6 & Xj12 1987 - 1994 Classic, Xjs Sports Coupe/convertible 1975 - 1996 Classic. Authentic Jaguar Part.
£246.48
Supersession Information
This part has been superseded by one or more of the following partsJLM11659 (JLM11659 - Jaguar Accumulator and seal)
JLM11659
Genuine OEM JLM11659 - Jaguar Accumulator and seal (JLM11659) part for Xj6 & Xj12 1987 - 1994 Classic. Authentic Jaguar Part.
and
JLM1907
Genuine OEM JLM1907 - Jaguar Accumulator kit (JLM1907) part for Xj6 & Xj12 1987 - 1994 Classic, Xjs Sports Coupe/convertible 1975 - 1996 Classic. Authentic Jaguar Part.
£246.48
Larry
Those part numbers your mention say those part numbers are good for 1987-1994 vehicles.
Larry
No, I am just looking at the catalogued fitment on the JCP site, where it states that all part numbers fit all cars right across the range.
Have you, or someone you know personally attempted fitment and found some model number units to be a problem?
Larry
Have you, or someone you know personally attempted fitment and found some model number units to be a problem?
Larry
Some guys on the XJS forum are using the Benz part, which is $75 plus shipping.
Accumulator Bosch 0265202070.
I wanted log in a post so that I can find the part number in the future.Last edited by Brewtech; Apr 22, 2020 at 10:18 PM.
The threads are the same. I installed an example of the accumulator on the left without a problem yesterday (4/23/2020).
Takes a bit longer to pump up as it is larger. A Wabco unit made 11/2019.
Takes a bit longer to pump up as it is larger. A Wabco unit made 11/2019.
Hey lads, (Roger95, Brewtech)
You know it would be a real help if you could add your car's VIN or at a minimum the year and model to your signature - main reason is that when future owners/issues show up, it would be easy to see if solutions posted apply to the car with the problem.
It's easy to do this, just takes a sec!
1. Click on your user name up on the banner, top right
2. take first option, USER CONTROL PANEL
3. On the left under "Settings and Options", hit "Edit Signature"
4. Add your car info etc in the text box and scroll down to "Save Signature"
The info will now appear automatically on all your posts.
Thanks guys
Larry
You know it would be a real help if you could add your car's VIN or at a minimum the year and model to your signature - main reason is that when future owners/issues show up, it would be easy to see if solutions posted apply to the car with the problem.
It's easy to do this, just takes a sec!
1. Click on your user name up on the banner, top right
2. take first option, USER CONTROL PANEL
3. On the left under "Settings and Options", hit "Edit Signature"
4. Add your car info etc in the text box and scroll down to "Save Signature"
The info will now appear automatically on all your posts.
Thanks guys
Larry
Last edited by Lawrence; Apr 24, 2020 at 02:45 PM.
My car is a 1990 USA spec. Majestic, one of the 527. The larger WABCO (?) accumulator with a production date of 11/19 stamped on it
is a direct fit - had it on in 5 minutes, bled the system and went for a drive. Always bleed your brakes when installing a new accumulator.
It takes a bit longer to pump up, I assume because it is larger. So far so good.
I've spent a lot of time on it recently resolving drive-ability issues and runs like the day it was new.
I have had an infrequent FF44 issue that has been resolved (?) with a new harmonic balancer and ethanol conditioner.
Starting fluid sprayed all around the intake manifold has not pinpointed any vacuum leaks.
I still have an oil leak I want to resolve, install a new carbon canister, fuel lines THE coolant hose and a new heater valve and hose.
is a direct fit - had it on in 5 minutes, bled the system and went for a drive. Always bleed your brakes when installing a new accumulator.
It takes a bit longer to pump up, I assume because it is larger. So far so good.
I've spent a lot of time on it recently resolving drive-ability issues and runs like the day it was new.
I have had an infrequent FF44 issue that has been resolved (?) with a new harmonic balancer and ethanol conditioner.
Starting fluid sprayed all around the intake manifold has not pinpointed any vacuum leaks.
I still have an oil leak I want to resolve, install a new carbon canister, fuel lines THE coolant hose and a new heater valve and hose.
FYI, WABCO is a Jaguar OEM and one of the largest manufacturers in the world of air braking and air suspension systems. It was founded in the U.S. in 1869 as the Westinghouse Air Brake Company and is now headquartered in Brussels, Belgium. WABCO manufactured the air suspension system used in the Jaguar X350 saloons. In addition to Jaguar, WABCO supplies Audi, Bentley, BMW, Ford, Land Rover, Mercedes-Benz, Porsche, Rolls-Royce, Volkswagen, Volvo, and many other makers of autos, busses and trucks.
Cheers,
Don
Thanks Don, I'll keep the forum informed as I complete repairs and improvements,
To date my fuel mileage has increased from 13.8 to 14.1 mpg to a solid 14.7 to 15.3 mpg depending on traffic.
Is removing the intake manifold a big job when compared to the AJ16?
I can remove an AJ16 intake manifold in a half hour or so.
To date my fuel mileage has increased from 13.8 to 14.1 mpg to a solid 14.7 to 15.3 mpg depending on traffic.
Is removing the intake manifold a big job when compared to the AJ16?
I can remove an AJ16 intake manifold in a half hour or so.
While you have it off is a great time to clean the EGR and carbon canister purge valve ports on the underside of the intake manifold (they're probably plugged with carbon), replace the O-rings on the oil dipstick tube and the oil filler tube if your car has one, replace the seals on the oil filter housing and the O-rings on the oil cooler lines or bypass pipe tubes, replace the large coolant hose and the gaskets or sealant on the water rail, remove the oil pressure sender and clean and degrease the threads on the sender and in the port on the engine, change your oil and filter if it's time, replace the heater water valve (it will never be easier), drill drain holes in the corners of the TPS case and flush it with electronic contact cleaner and compressed air... Seems like there's probably more - hopefully someone else will think of the rest.
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; Apr 24, 2020 at 08:33 PM.
I do have an intake manifold leak, right, located by the lower side of the throttle body.
At 30 years old and 110K miles I will clean and/or replace everything.
Gaskets, seals, hoses, cleaning, anything and everything that can be removed and replaced, everything.
At 30 years old and 110K miles I will clean and/or replace everything.
Gaskets, seals, hoses, cleaning, anything and everything that can be removed and replaced, everything.
same as the cadillac? referring to the link above. The amazon link obviously merc accumulator, great news if it fits
my brakes have never been super good, might be time to replace this.
my brakes have never been super good, might be time to replace this.
Last edited by mickvic; May 2, 2020 at 07:32 AM.









